I am thinking about getting 75 shot wet nitrous kit. What impact will that have on our stock engines? i will only be sprayin going about 80 and want instant acceleration at that speed!

 

Decreased life expectancy of the motor. Hard on factory rings and pistons.

 

moved

 

The points listed below are ALL FACTS
They are NOT OPINIONS.

Point 1),
What ALL novices and many "self proclaimed experts" don't "know" or "realise" is that MOST engine wear occurs on "start up" (as any oil company will tell you), because there is NO OIL between the moving parts.

Point 2)
The second aspect of wear (for some engine components), is engine speed (rpm).
Obviously if an engine was run at 1,000rpm for a given length of time it would have 1/10th of the wear that an engine ran at 10,000rpm would have.
Most conventional tuning INCREASES the rpm at which peak power is achieved so if you use that power you will increase engine wear.

Point 3)
Nitrous is the ONLY tuning product that creates such a MASSIVE increase in "torque" and the maximum "torque" is generated at LOW to MID rpm.
Consequently if you wanted to extend engine life (REDUCE WEAR), you could do this and increase performance (at the same time), by using a Nitrous system and changing gear
at a lower rpm than without gas.
Used this way NITROUS use will result in REDUCED ENGINE WEAR.

Point 4)
The components responsible for MOST WEAR in an engine are the camshaft and followers, because they are made from the hardest materials in the engine and are subjected to the highest frictional loads / forces.
They wear at a high rate (frequently being the first major parts to need replacing).
The VERY hard particles that are produced by the wearing of these components get pumped around the engine causing accelerated wear in parts like the bottom end bearings, pistons etc.
The best way to reduce camshaft wear is to run the engine at higher rpm because the cam lobes and followers are not in contact for as long as when running at low rpm.
The faster you accelerate the engine to high rpm the shorter the time that the followers are in contact with the cam lobes.
Guess what, Nitrous accelerates (reduces) the rpm rise time and consequently reduces cam & follower wear.

Point 5)
The final BUT MOST IMPORTANT point that 99.9% of people seem to forget or overlook, is that Nitrous is ONLY used for a few SECONDS at a time. So even if ALL the
above was RUBBISH, this very short use period would have such a microscopic effect on wear that it would NOT be worth considering (which is why I don't make a big thing about Nitrous actually REDUCING engine wear).
I drive my car to work and back every day which takes about 1 hour. Lets assume (to make things simple for the likes of the odd plant life that occasionally visits our board), that wear is consistent under all
conditions (even though it's NOT). I'll probably use the Nitrous system 5 or 6 times
for about 3 to 5 seconds at a time (maximum use 30 seconds).
So in a journey that lasts 3,600 seconds the gas is used for just 30 seconds that equates to less than 1%.
The more you use your car the smaller the percentage of time the Nitrous is used.
Even if Nitrous increases wear (WHICH IT DOES NOT), a maximum of 1% does not seem worth mentioning to me!

 

Damn. I want to spray now!

 

i see you say you want to use nitrous at 80mph & higher speeds. how high of a speed do you plan to run it? how long of a time frame to you plan to spray at one time? nitrous should only be used for a small portion of time(as mentioned above)......most people use nitrous to increase 0-60 times or 1/4 mile times. even light to light street racing type suituations(only speaking truth, not recomending it)....your short bursts at 80 mph & higher should be gear/rpm/time dependant........

lastly, its all about the tune. if you tune your setup on a dyno & get a respectable/safe a/f ratio for your application while spraying you should be fine. many here avg. a 100 shot & some run over this (125 shot) with great success due to a great tune. i have my entire kit installed & ready to run but am waiting for my dyno session to get my tune right before i go spraying on the street or at the track......best of luck!

-justin

 

well put jime. i think you will find the same info about nitrous use elsewhere on this site, just do a search. yet people still try to say that nitrous does more damage to your engine then other FI mods. we're talking a few seconds of use a month with nitrous vs always on with other FI mods. that alone is enough not to mention all the other technical stuff you mentioned.

 

hbhakt1,

I have my NX wet kit for sale(getting HKS or Vortech). PM me for details if interested.

Jim

 

u guys figure out the backfires u were havin lately?

 

mine was due to the fact that i forgot to purge before i sprayed. i had my system on for an hour and had built up a lot of air in the lines. so when i finally engaged the system at WOT, i had air (instead of nitrous) and a ton of fuel flowing into the engine.

since the fuel wasnt getting properly vaporized coming out of the nossle, it caused a very rich condition, puddled in the intake and POP.

 

Thanks for the comments guys...i have a better understanding of what n2o will do to my engine, practically nothing when i am sprayin for 5 seconds at the most..i hope to be sprayin soon.

 

mysynset350z, did you do nay damage with your backfire or was it just a pop followed by a stall?

thanx,
-justin

 

it was a very loud pop, but i didnt stall out until after i pulled over. luckily i had one of the ring clamps off of the intake so when the backfire happened that connection popped off and minimized damage. i think it would of been worse if i had that clamp on. it could of blew the intake and sent parts flying threw the hood or front bumper. the only bad thing that happened was my intake filter swelled up like a marshmellow and i had to buy a new one. other then that it was just some charring on the inside of the intake, on the rear bumper near the exhaust and on my front bumper where the intake filter was sitting. a little soap and water took care of it all.

i guess i have injen to thank for not giving me all the ring clamps when i bought their intake. lol.

 

wow, glad things turned out like they did & not worse! so are you 100% sure that the back fire was due to not purging or is there still some uncertainty? i remember having a bad nitrous backfire on my IROC several years back but that was due to hitting the nitrous at too low of an rpm....are you using a window switch? could you possibly have hit it at too low of an rpm? just curious, i would like to learn from those who have had the backfire so i can avoid it. scary thing is theres a few of you nx kit users that had this happen & not know exactly why. i too have an nx kit & dont want to have any costly problems........just want to hear your input on the backfire.
thanx,
-justin

 

I have run my NX kit from a 35-200 shot and never had a backfire. I have been to the track 14 times and masde over 135 passes this year.

Also I spray right out of the hole ie 1000 rpm and have for 3 years now. Spraying at a low RPM in 1st gear is not dangerous. This is a quote from the NX site.

Q. How high must the RPM's before activating nitrous?

A. The RPM level is not as important as is the motors ability to rev freely when the nitrous is engaged, I.E. If the vehicle is in low gear, nitrous can be engaged at any time, but if the vehicle is in a higher gear moving at a slow speed when the nitrous is engaged the engine will detonate and damage will occur.

Another thing I don't do is purge. If I really want to get the effect I just spray a bit during the burnout. I find that when you purge people expect you to go fast, I like to go fast when they don't expect it.

 

thanx for that info. i had a nitrous backfire at the track in my IROC. it happened when i hit the button at approx 1k rpms in 1st gear "BANG".....i sprayed on the street using about 4 bottles before going to the track with it & never had a problem with it. on the street i would launch in 1st then squeeze immediately after shifting into 2nd(obviously at a high rpm).....the only time i had the backfire is when i hit it at a low rpm. i fixed my car from the damages & used the nitous again for about 6 months. never happened again & i never squeezed below 3.5k rpms again........this was my experience anyways......

-justin

 

a nitrous backfire that comes up through the intake is usually due to an overly rich condition right? so mabey low bottle pressure or not purging before a shot would cause this. i cant imagine any other way to backfire through the intake. if it were a lean condition it would have been more of a preignition type thing causing internal damage & not a backfire through the intake right? im just trying to learn more about this before i go spraying on my expensive car that i still owe alot of money on........
thanx,
-justin

 

Actually nitrous backfires are most commonly caused from lean fuel condition. Any number of things can cause this like an air leak, bad solenoid etc. It can be caused from being overly rich but rarely.

Excess fuel can't do ANYTHING without something else to fire it. Its not the fuel that is the problem its whatever caused the BACKFIRE!!!
WITHOUT the backfire, the excess fuel would just have been picked up by the passing air and fed to the engine. Once in the engine the ECU would have corrected the next charge to allow for the excess, so the mixture would immediately be corrected.

 

lean conditions arnt as forgiving as rich conditions. a backfire happens when fuel puddles in the intake. this is caused by the fuel not being properly vaporized. this is caused by not enough nitrous or nitrous pressure present to vaporise the fuel in the fogger before it makes it into the intake.

people mistake this often for a lean condition. if it was a lean condition then you would of detonated and blew the engine.

i was at 70mph and at 4k when i sprayed and had the backfire happen. i had nitrous in the lines for a few hours before spraying, it was a hot day and im sure i had nothing but air throught the nitrous feed line. it took my system apart and tested everything piece by piece to try n figure out what happened. took me about 2 weeks to sort it all out, but everything led back to the fact that i didnt purge. this might not be such a big deal at lower hp shots, but the higher the shot the more your risking by not purging. atleast on your first run.

if your at the track and your running your car then there really isnt enough time for the line to completly fill with air. i agree with you on not purging at the track. i rarely do that when i line up. i usually do a quick purge before my first run and only after my car has been sitting for a while.

i have a window switch but i havent installed it yet.

 

a bit of contrast with the last 2 posts but im absorbing what makes sense to me..........

mysunset350z. you said the backfire happened at 70mph at 4k rpms. is this where you started to spray? im guessing so because naturally if you were in the middle of spraying the the vapor in the feed line would have been long gone by this time/rpm/mph & the moving air would have pulled or swept the possible fuel puddling into the cc's by then. but its hard to pinpoint any other problem as you said you went through your system with no problems.......hehe, im scared to spray now......

-justin