**** yes.

 

Seems like AutoX and Drag until I get my BBKs and some cooling mods.

 

so ur saying i'll need new rotors after one track day?

 

It all depends on how you drive and what pads you're using.

OE pads/rotors: my rotors lasted, but pads won't (took me 4 30min sessions to burn through a new set of OE pads...and I got some brake fade)

OE rotors and semi-metallic pads and Mutol RBF6000 fluid: pads lasted (FTW!), but the heat warped the rotors (2 sets so far). no brake fade

*I tend to abuse my car a bit...IMO if you were to let up on the straight sections, you could reduce the stress/heat wear on the brakes.

PR/SIR also seems to be hard on the brakes...their turn 2 and 3a are very heavy braking zones. my pads/rotors would last much longer at Thunderhill.

IMO, if it's your first track day, just make sure you have a new set of pads on, and a spare set (just in case)...your first day, you tend to be learning how to drive on the track (flags, driving etiquette, learning the course,...), so you're going a bit easier.

**just noticed that you have an '07, your brakes are larger, so that will help out a lot...you may be fine OE.

 

BBK's won't have rotor warp issues if you use the correct pad and provided you have slotted/solid rotors I presume. How long does a good BBK last usually? Rotors and whatnot? Let's say only a couple of track days a year.

 

I think the main thing to realize, which is the one of first thing you discover when going on a track like Pacific Raceways as well as other tracks, is that your brakes are very important, not just for performance but also for your safety.

But before going out and buying stuff for your car cuz you're interested in getting on to a track, and to use a truly worn out saying; "You should spend your time and $ working on fixing the loose nut between the seat and the steering wheel.". Go to a few autoX events (WWSCC Slush Series starts next month, BBK for a Z is not needed), take an HPDE class (PR or PIR) or join a car club that does performance events and participate in those events. Juat my $0.02.

 

+1 ...and seat time will also help you figure out what mods you actually need.

 

hey, you've heard of a race track from Kent/Renton to Everett. right? have you been there? i know its a 140+ mph track

 

rofl... yea i went there tonight.. your nuts man! Im glad we didnt get a ticket.. or actually at those speeds, arrested. Nice to meet you by the way.

 

you know, when you're donw in Mexico......... . nice to meet you too, your car is FAST, i felt like i was in reverse

 

Driver is always 90% of the equation. I've seen (and ridden with) guys in street cars who can drive faster than a "good" driver in a formula car.

The only time that the car comes into the equation is when you've maximized the driver part of the equation. That's why you see national drivers in only a few types of cars -- at that level the car (and car prep) become a lot more important.

Also, sometimes it's knowing what NOT to change. For example, a lot of people are shocked at how *little* I've done to my Z yet it's very competitive.

 

^what do have u done to ur z?

 

very very True...If you want to go faster on the track, invest in the driver! After AutoXing for 1 year, the biggest thing I've learned is that experience is the best mod to cut down your times...$$ going to the right areas can help, but seat time is hard to beat w/ $$ (i.e. I run BSP, PDX_Racer runs BS...and PDX_Racer is considerably faster than me )

*that's not to say that the correct mods don't help...and 1 good way to figuring out what mods to do, is that get out on the track.

If I were to be going for more track days, the first mod I would get would be a BBK + mutol RBF600 brake fluid - it's not going to make the car stop any faster, but it'll prevent brake fade and warping of rotors. After that, it's really just driver's preference; I found that the Z would push a bit too much for my liking (at track days), a set of hotchis springs and sways solved that (easy mod, and not too much $$).

**there's lots of mods that will lower lap times, but may slow down your learning curve as a driver. Stuff like R-comp tires - it'll drop your lap times by a good amount, but won't allow you as a new/novice driver to find the edge of traction as easily/safely, and in the end, ppl usually find that it takes longer to develop the correct driving skills as opposed to just staying w/ street tires.

IMO, I jumped to R-comps too quickly...I wasn't maximizing the street tires on the track for every corner (mainly the 60MPH+ corners...too scary !), then when I switched to R-comps, I was leaving even more safety margin on the same turns.

for the same turn:
street tire maximized is 65 MPH --> I go 55 MPH...I'm leaving 10 MPH of unused rubber
R-comps maximized is 75 MPH--> I go 60 MPH...I'm leaving 15 MPH of unused rubber.
-so I may be faster on R-comps, but I'm using less of my tires' potential!!

(street tires tend to give more warning when they're at their limit - they squeal, slide, whine....R-comps have much less warning and can feel more twitchy. So if you can't drive street tires at 100%, you'll be struggling even more to push the R-comps to their limits)

 

Eibach FSB, Koni DA shocks.

And LOTS of work on the driver. I run data acquisition (GTechPro RR for acquisition and AXAnalyst for analyzing the data) and video.

 

not sure if it counts as a mod, but fitting 285 Kuhmo's on OE Track wheels helps a bit too

 

You don't need to waste your money on a BBK...i have been drinking a little bit so i'm not going to go into great detail (i might F*** up and sound like an idiot)...stupied Captain morgan...anywho...unless you fully tune a BBK on a Z/g it really wont help you to much in the shorter stoping distances...and someone correct me if i'm wrong but with that kinda horseies run'n around your engine bay, with drilled and slotted rotors(stock replacment sizes), magnesieium brake pads(they will squelch alot) you will be able to fully track your car i would say no more then 10 laps on a tight circuit without haveing to worry about brake fade. BBK are just to expensive and don't do what they should unless they are tuned and tested right and set up to your driving needs and styles...when i raced semi-pro in korea, i had bbks on a FD3S...hated them...swithced to 99'spec rotors with cross drilled and slotted, mag. pads, tuned ABS, and had BETTER results...so from expierence if your not running LeMans u don't need bbk's...exageration but you get the point...however...BBK's look really good behind 18's!!! ohh and i was running project MU's bbk on the front...really expensive but i didn't pay for'em.

 

so all the people that autox, when is the next one? i'm looking to get started on autox and it'd be great if i could go with someone to show me around and what not

i heard that to get on the boeing autox, u need and invite from a regular, so if someone could issue an invite, that'd be great

 

There are several series that run in western WA, the two main ones are:
-Western Washington Sports Car Council (primarily runs in Everett) - http://www.wwscc.org/
-The Northwest Region SCCA (primarily runs in Packwood) - http://www.nwr-scca.org/

The 2008 schedules for the regular seasons aren't firmed up yet. The championship series usually begins around April and runs through October. But the WWSCC has a pre-season series in the form of a 3 event non-championship series; WWSCC Slush Series. The first event will be on the last Sunday in January.

As for the Boeing Employees Autosports Club (BEAC), in order to attend a BEAC practice days, you must be invited guest of a BEAC member. First350 and I are both active members. We haven't received a schedule for our practice day events yet.

 

if say i wanted to become a member after a few or one session, how would i go about becoming a BEAC member? or would i have to be employed by boeing?

 

^ You have to be a Boeing employee or an employee of a Boeing partner or supplier. If you have an immediate family member affiliated w/ Boeing, you can join through them as well. BEAC is always looking for prospective members interested in motorsports, but we still have to abide by the rules of Boeing in order to qualify for the support they give to us.

There are many other local car clubs in the area. Most are specific to certain interests but I think the one that would match most guys on this forum who have an interest in getting into motorsport would be Torque Steerers. They are probably the largest motorsports oriented car club in western WA that doesn't cater to one specific make of car. They hold many performance events (autoX, track days, drifting, etc.).