New lady here
Oh, I had meant unique as in I could tell each one was different, not seeing the same car 5 different times. 
In terms of performance upgrades, the 350z likes to eat wallets, or purses in your case. However, if you keep an eye on Craigslist, both Seattle and Portland, you can find an occasional deal. I've gotten stupidly awesome ones like a pristine set of Nismo LM-GT4 wheels for $800 (!!!! still can't believe that one), and an Akebono big brake swap also for $800.
For the best bang for the money, you could keep an eye out for an airbox (intake)from the 05+ (UpRev and HR) cars. They are a significant improvement over the 03-05 airboxes, and perform as well as many aftermarket intakes. You can usually find these used for as little as $50. The next best mod for the money would be the Motordyne 5/16 spacer, like Robert mentioned earlier. That can be had for about $200 new from online sources. After that, the next performance mods would be exhaust and high flow cats, but that's getting into the $$$ range for quality items.
Sadly all of those bolt-on mods above, plus a custom tune, would perhaps net a 15% increase in your performance numbers. Don't let that discourage you, though---15% is still 15%. Part of the reason why I was looking for an MR2 was because a V6 (3VZ-FE or 1MZ-FE) drops right in with little fuss, and the swap would be really cheap but gives rather significant power gains. That plus a mid-engine car would make for a really agile and fun daily driver.
And yeah, about the foggy windows...I don't think I've ever turned the A/C off in the 350z while I've lived in Seattle. It's really the only way to keep the windows from fogging when it's raining.
In terms of performance upgrades, the 350z likes to eat wallets, or purses in your case. However, if you keep an eye on Craigslist, both Seattle and Portland, you can find an occasional deal. I've gotten stupidly awesome ones like a pristine set of Nismo LM-GT4 wheels for $800 (!!!! still can't believe that one), and an Akebono big brake swap also for $800.
For the best bang for the money, you could keep an eye out for an airbox (intake)from the 05+ (UpRev and HR) cars. They are a significant improvement over the 03-05 airboxes, and perform as well as many aftermarket intakes. You can usually find these used for as little as $50. The next best mod for the money would be the Motordyne 5/16 spacer, like Robert mentioned earlier. That can be had for about $200 new from online sources. After that, the next performance mods would be exhaust and high flow cats, but that's getting into the $$$ range for quality items.
Sadly all of those bolt-on mods above, plus a custom tune, would perhaps net a 15% increase in your performance numbers. Don't let that discourage you, though---15% is still 15%. Part of the reason why I was looking for an MR2 was because a V6 (3VZ-FE or 1MZ-FE) drops right in with little fuss, and the swap would be really cheap but gives rather significant power gains. That plus a mid-engine car would make for a really agile and fun daily driver.
And yeah, about the foggy windows...I don't think I've ever turned the A/C off in the 350z while I've lived in Seattle. It's really the only way to keep the windows from fogging when it's raining.

My buddy told me to get an ECU chip or something first thing before doing anything performance wise because he had put a BUNCH of mods on his car without one and now he has to start all over so he wants me to learn from his lesson.
Were you thinking about getting rid of your Z to get an MR2 or just get an additional car to play with?
Welcome!
As far as modding it depends on what your goals and budget are for your car. I think the air suspension is a dumb idea.
Personally since it sounds you're on a budget and want to keep it very drivable, I would go with the Hotchkis TVS kit (springs & sway bars) to start with your suspension. If you can afford it pick up a set of SPL's front & rear end links as well.
If you're looking for some extra HP the MotorDyne 5/16th plenum spacer is one of the best "bang for the buck" bolt-on mods. Match the spacer with the JWT PopCharger filter and you'll be set. Exhaust are hard to tell someone to get. We all have different opinions on what sounds good. Again since it sounds you want to enjoy driving the car versus building a street machine or track killer I think the Tanabe Medalion is a great choice. I'd stay away from cat-deletes (aka; downpipes) or resonated cat-deletes. With a non-boosted VQ and cat-deletes you get the bumblebee effect.
A great wheel and tire combo always separates a stock Z from yourself. Plus they look GREAT and can set the route of what you want. Again since you're budget limited I would suggest a set of 18" Enkei RPF1, PF01 or NT03+M (18x9.5 +15 & 18x10.5 +15) with a set of BF Goodrich KDW tires (255/40 & 285/40)
And of course do a lot of reading on the forum for a lot of good (and bad) information. Plus you might be able to save some cash and buy parts used. The Z is going on 10 yrs old and people are moving on from them and selling their parts for OEM. If you are like me and have to have new, Kyle & Brett over at Import Parts Pro are GREAT vendors!
Good luck and welcome again!!!
As far as modding it depends on what your goals and budget are for your car. I think the air suspension is a dumb idea.
If you're looking for some extra HP the MotorDyne 5/16th plenum spacer is one of the best "bang for the buck" bolt-on mods. Match the spacer with the JWT PopCharger filter and you'll be set. Exhaust are hard to tell someone to get. We all have different opinions on what sounds good. Again since it sounds you want to enjoy driving the car versus building a street machine or track killer I think the Tanabe Medalion is a great choice. I'd stay away from cat-deletes (aka; downpipes) or resonated cat-deletes. With a non-boosted VQ and cat-deletes you get the bumblebee effect.
A great wheel and tire combo always separates a stock Z from yourself. Plus they look GREAT and can set the route of what you want. Again since you're budget limited I would suggest a set of 18" Enkei RPF1, PF01 or NT03+M (18x9.5 +15 & 18x10.5 +15) with a set of BF Goodrich KDW tires (255/40 & 285/40)
And of course do a lot of reading on the forum for a lot of good (and bad) information. Plus you might be able to save some cash and buy parts used. The Z is going on 10 yrs old and people are moving on from them and selling their parts for OEM. If you are like me and have to have new, Kyle & Brett over at Import Parts Pro are GREAT vendors!
Good luck and welcome again!!!I'm definitely going to look into getting new wheels eventually, I can't stand the stock ones I have on. Haha.
Thanks for the advice! I was actually thinking to get an intake as a first step also, I heard that's the easiest thing to install. Sadly I don't think I'm capable to doing so myself because I've never experience doing anything mechanical, but I can probably find someone to install it for me. HAHA.
My buddy told me to get an ECU chip or something first thing before doing anything performance wise because he had put a BUNCH of mods on his car without one and now he has to start all over so he wants me to learn from his lesson.
Were you thinking about getting rid of your Z to get an MR2 or just get an additional car to play with?
My buddy told me to get an ECU chip or something first thing before doing anything performance wise because he had put a BUNCH of mods on his car without one and now he has to start all over so he wants me to learn from his lesson.
Were you thinking about getting rid of your Z to get an MR2 or just get an additional car to play with?
A physical unit isn't necessary for a 2004.5+ 350z (After mid-2004 the 350z left factory with wideband O2 sensors, giving more accurate readings of your air/fuel ratio). This lets a tuner read off your stock ECU while the car is on a dynamometer, see specifically where the a/f ratio and ignition timing needs to be adjusted, then reflash the stock ECU with a new map. Since it costs a decent chunk of change to do this, most people get a tune only after they complete all their mods. Doing this gets you a custom map, and is usually cheaper than getting a chip that only has a pre-made map.
As for the MR-2, it won't replace my 350z. It'll just be so I can have another fun car to drive while I'm working on my Z, as well as having awesome potential to be a track car. I've spent like $1k this year already on rental cars because the Z was on jack stands!
Getting something like a Cobb Accessport or similar to your stock car will give you performance gains, since those devices change the air/fuel ratio and ignition timing to a more aggressive "map" than the factory ECU. Most cars have conservative maps from the factory to maximize gas mileage and to account for potentially using lower quality fuel. A physical unit isn't necessary for a 2004.5+ 350z (After mid-2004 the 350z left factory with wideband O2 sensors, giving more accurate readings of your air/fuel ratio). This lets a tuner read off your stock ECU while the car is on a dynamometer, see specifically where the a/f ratio and ignition timing needs to be adjusted, then reflash the stock ECU with a new map. Since it costs a decent chunk of change to do this, most people get a tune only after they complete all their mods. Doing this gets you a custom map, and is usually cheaper than getting a chip that only has a pre-made map. As for the MR-2, it won't replace my 350z. It'll just be so I can have another fun car to drive while I'm working on my Z, as well as having awesome potential to be a track car. I've spent like $1k this year already on rental cars because the Z was on jack stands! 
Do yourself a favor and don't waste money on bolt ons. The extra pep you think you are getting is pointless for the amount of money spent. You want power, go forced induction. Best advice I think anyone can take if you don't want to look back and regret all the money you spent on a trivial amount of hp.
Getting something like a Cobb Accessport or similar to your stock car will give you performance gains, since those devices change the air/fuel ratio and ignition timing to a more aggressive "map" than the factory ECU. Most cars have conservative maps from the factory to maximize gas mileage and to account for potentially using lower quality fuel.
A physical unit isn't necessary for a 2004.5+ 350z (After mid-2004 the 350z left factory with wideband O2 sensors, giving more accurate readings of your air/fuel ratio). This lets a tuner read off your stock ECU while the car is on a dynamometer, see specifically where the a/f ratio and ignition timing needs to be adjusted, then reflash the stock ECU with a new map. Since it costs a decent chunk of change to do this, most people get a tune only after they complete all their mods. Doing this gets you a custom map, and is usually cheaper than getting a chip that only has a pre-made map.
As for the MR-2, it won't replace my 350z. It'll just be so I can have another fun car to drive while I'm working on my Z, as well as having awesome potential to be a track car. I've spent like $1k this year already on rental cars because the Z was on jack stands!
A physical unit isn't necessary for a 2004.5+ 350z (After mid-2004 the 350z left factory with wideband O2 sensors, giving more accurate readings of your air/fuel ratio). This lets a tuner read off your stock ECU while the car is on a dynamometer, see specifically where the a/f ratio and ignition timing needs to be adjusted, then reflash the stock ECU with a new map. Since it costs a decent chunk of change to do this, most people get a tune only after they complete all their mods. Doing this gets you a custom map, and is usually cheaper than getting a chip that only has a pre-made map.
As for the MR-2, it won't replace my 350z. It'll just be so I can have another fun car to drive while I'm working on my Z, as well as having awesome potential to be a track car. I've spent like $1k this year already on rental cars because the Z was on jack stands!
Also all cars and O2 sensors. That is how the the EMS reads if the cats are working properly. You're A/F sensors are before the cats and takes reading to make sure you have a stoichiometric ratio (14.7:1). And many tuners prefer an aftermarket wideband O2 sensor(s). Also "chips" are not used anymore.
Do yourself a favor and don't waste money on bolt ons. The extra pep you think you are getting is pointless for the amount of money spent. You want power, go forced induction. Best advice I think anyone can take if you don't want to look back and regret all the money you spent on a trivial amount of hp.
I'm going the bolt-on route because it satisfies my urge to occasionally tinker with the Z without leaving me broke. For me, it's not the end numbers that matter, but the time I spend working on the car. Granted, if I ever find a bargain for an LS2 V8, I'd be singing a different tune.
Thao9292, I sent a private message about the MR2, did not want to derail thread
I once spent $3K on an exhaust system, intakes, and a Cobb Accessport....never again 
Bolt-ons for the Z should either be done because you like working on / modifying your car or to set it apart from the rest - not for increased power. A little more power is a nice perk of customizing your Z with bolt-ons, but that should never be the main purpose. I learned this the hard and expensive way.
If power is your main goal, either go forced induction or don't do anything at all. Put the $$ into suspension if boost is too expensive. A great handling car will still feel fast.
Bolt-ons for the Z should either be done because you like working on / modifying your car or to set it apart from the rest - not for increased power. A little more power is a nice perk of customizing your Z with bolt-ons, but that should never be the main purpose. I learned this the hard and expensive way.
If power is your main goal, either go forced induction or don't do anything at all. Put the $$ into suspension if boost is too expensive. A great handling car will still feel fast.
I once spent $3K on an exhaust system, intakes, and a Cobb Accessport....never again
Bolt-ons for the Z should either be done because you like working on / modifying your car or to set it apart from the rest - not for increased power. A little more power is a nice perk of customizing your Z with bolt-ons, but that should never be the main purpose. I learned this the hard and expensive way. If power is your main goal, either go forced induction or don't do anything at all. Put the $$ into suspension if boost is too expensive. A great handling car will still feel fast.
everyone always gets extra helpful for the ladies 
welcome to the forum, browse around all the threads in every section. there's tons of information to help you better understand the car. happy modding
welcome to the forum, browse around all the threads in every section. there's tons of information to help you better understand the car. happy modding
Thanks! I finally made a facebook after a million years and I thinkkkk I added that group. It's been nice talking to Z fans.
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