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How do you change out hub bolts/wheel studs?

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Old 05-10-2005, 09:24 AM
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neur0sis
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Default How do you change out hub bolts/wheel studs?

I know they have to be "pressed" in, or something... so do you have to take the whole hub apart/off the car? Is there an easier way? Can you do it while they are ON the car?
Old 05-10-2005, 10:01 AM
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havabooz
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i dont know for sure but i needed to change one and when i went for service they had to remove the whole hub assembly..you can just screw it off..makes sense too cause that would just be unsafe
Old 05-10-2005, 10:43 AM
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zwindsor
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Wheel hub should be removed. There is no way to back-press the stud out. If you try and beat it out while still mounted you could damage the bearing. Also there may not be enough depth behind the hub while mounted for the length of the stud to be fully removed/inserted.

On the Toyota I actually did back-press one with a C-clamp but it was one pain in the azz.

Did one get stripped? You want to put in longer ones to use a spacer?

Last edited by zwindsor; 05-10-2005 at 10:47 AM.
Old 05-10-2005, 11:23 AM
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neur0sis
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Originally Posted by zwindsor
Wheel hub should be removed. There is no way to back-press the stud out. If you try and beat it out while still mounted you could damage the bearing. Also there may not be enough depth behind the hub while mounted for the length of the stud to be fully removed/inserted.

On the Toyota I actually did back-press one with a C-clamp but it was one pain in the azz.

Did one get stripped? You want to put in longer ones to use a spacer?
Spacer. I heard a metal/metal grinding noise the other night, while going into a really steep driveway in Santa Rosa.

I checked it out, and with my 10.5" rear, and big offset (+43 yikes!), the inner lip of the wheel was actually RUBBING on the rear shock! Not good at all!
I have some 25mm spacers (DRM type, hubcentric) ... but if they are too big, I'll have to use a smaller spacer, and longer studs because they don't make thinner DRM spacers.

I need to figure this out ASAFP, because I don't want a hole grooved into my Tein CS shock... it'll be a ***** to replace. (Not to mention $$$$$!)

How do the hubs come off, Bill? Are they bolted on? I can/have get the caliper and rotor off ... but never really looked at the hub mounting.
Old 05-10-2005, 11:45 AM
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zwindsor
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Originally Posted by neur0sis
How do the hubs come off, Bill? Are they bolted on? I can/have get the caliper and rotor off ... but never really looked at the hub mounting.
They are bolted to the end of the axle. You'll have to take all the brake stuff off as well as some other things. Once you get the hub & bearing assembly off you may be able to remove the studs without pressing the bearing off. I sent you an email with the SM section.

Last edited by zwindsor; 05-10-2005 at 11:54 AM.
Old 05-10-2005, 12:25 PM
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neur0sis
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thanks for the PDF, Bill...

I sure hope I can pop these suckers off without pressing out the wheel bearing. I don't have a press, and I don't really want to buy new bearings.
Old 05-10-2005, 12:42 PM
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zwindsor
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Originally Posted by neur0sis
thanks for the PDF, Bill...

I sure hope I can pop these suckers off without pressing out the wheel bearing. I don't have a press, and I don't really want to buy new bearings.
Your welcome and I hear ya. Bearings are one of the things I don't like messing with. If you need any more help.....
Old 05-10-2005, 01:11 PM
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neur0sis
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one more question... you think that the stiffer sway bar setting in the rear is helping or causing this problem? if I turn LEFT into a sharp angle driveway, and the right rear wheel compresses in/up ... does that cause the left rear wheel to be pulled inward as well?
Old 05-10-2005, 01:24 PM
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zwindsor
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Actually the stiffer bar should keep the car from leaning in so chances are it's just the wider wheel with that much offset. Another thing you're going to have to consider once you put the spacers in is rubbing the wheelwell.
Old 05-10-2005, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by zwindsor
Another thing you're going to have to consider once you put the spacers in is rubbing the wheelwell.
Yeah, I'm gonna test fit the 25mm spacers tonight, and see how they "look" ... I think it'll clear the wheel well just barely, without having to roll the fender, but I don't know until I actually put one on and really see.

I do have 1.6* neg camber on the back so the top of the tire slants in a little bit. I'll let ya'll know tomorrow how it fits.
Old 05-10-2005, 02:23 PM
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zwindsor
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The camber is right on. I wouldn't decrease that to make the wheels fit.
Good luck!
Old 05-10-2005, 05:59 PM
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neur0sis
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well, ran into a problem. The spacers I bought do not fit.

And, by "not fit" ... I didn't even get as far as putting the wheel on. They mount up to the stock holes no problem, but the lug nuts do not fit correctly on the SPACER Hub Bolts.

I guess thats what I get for trying to save $40. The brand I got is called TC Sportline, and they look to be a nice quality polished aluminum, hubcentric spacer. I guess I should have went with the more expensive H&R TRAK+ spacers.

*sighs*
Old 05-10-2005, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by neur0sis
well, ran into a problem. The spacers I bought do not fit.

And, by "not fit" ... I didn't even get as far as putting the wheel on. They mount up to the stock holes no problem, but the lug nuts do not fit correctly on the SPACER Hub Bolts.

I guess thats what I get for trying to save $40. The brand I got is called TC Sportline, and they look to be a nice quality polished aluminum, hubcentric spacer. I guess I should have went with the more expensive H&R TRAK+ spacers.

*sighs*
Sounds like you have the same luck I have when i start a car project. i hope it works out for you! Walt
Old 05-11-2005, 07:51 AM
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neur0sis
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Yeah Walt, I've just been having bad luck. :-/

So, now the question is... should I get 15mm DRS spacers, or 20mm DRS spacers. Both are hubcentric, and made by H&R. My current offset is +43 with a 10.5" wheel and a 275/40 tire.
Old 05-11-2005, 08:42 AM
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Use the smallest possible, will put less stress on the studs. 15mm is more then 1/2" and that should be plenty IMO but you should get in there and do some measuring. If you go with the 20mm (3/4") you may be getting awful close to the fender.
Old 05-11-2005, 09:03 AM
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neur0sis
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Yeah, I just went out and measured... the 15mm should do nicely, and put my offset at approx 28mm.

I think I might take it by Benjamin Tire to have them tap out the old wheel studs and press the new ones in. I don't anticipate having a good time untorquing the hub bolt with my little breaker bar... They won't charge much at all...

Ordered the H&R TRAK+ 15mm spacers from Performance Nissan ... we'll see if that works
Old 05-11-2005, 10:47 AM
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neur0sis
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crap! This just isn't working...

Performance Nissan is out of stock.

I wonder if anyplace has these in stock?!
Old 05-11-2005, 11:19 AM
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What next! You'll probably have to start making calls. Try some of the obvious including the vendors in the Wheel section. I'm sure somebody has them. TireRack, Gruppe-S, Evolution, GSC, Discount Tire. Maybe some of the local wheel retailers like Les Schwab or Ceja Tires.
Old 05-11-2005, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by neur0sis
Yeah, I just went out and measured... the 15mm should do nicely, and put my offset at approx 28mm.

I think I might take it by Benjamin Tire to have them tap out the old wheel studs and press the new ones in. I don't anticipate having a good time untorquing the hub bolt with my little breaker bar... They won't charge much at all...

Ordered the H&R TRAK+ 15mm spacers from Performance Nissan ... we'll see if that works
Tell Jeff at Benjamin that I said he shouldn't charge you anything.
Did you try America's Wheel by Coddingtown? They sometimes have some pretty knowledgeable wheel guys in there. w.
Old 05-11-2005, 01:19 PM
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neur0sis
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Well, I just got off the phone with Livermore Performance, and they are going to be able to help me out. I spoke with Monty Anderson ... really nice guy, and he was able to get me a set of Eibach Hubcentric Spacers, 15mm bolt on, for right around the same price. He says he has held them side by side, and they are almost identical. To the point where he said they were probabally made in the same shop.

Great guys to deal with, and they are Local to us ...

Contact Info, for the interested (they sell all sorts of performance parts):

http://www.livermoreperformance.com
Phone: (925)292-5522 Fax: (925)292-5524
Monty Anderson


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