16psibrick

iTrader: (10)

anyone know of a good southbay body shop that will paint custom molded fiberglass work done by audio installers? i know of a few but daly city or san mateo is kinda of a far drive for me...

anyone know a shop near SJ? if so, let me know

i know tommy's doesnt anymore ...

b

Nitrouz

iTrader: (27)

William's Auto Body.

G352NV

iTrader: (13)

From your other posts looks like you could pick it up easy. If you want to learn PM me.

16psibrick

iTrader: (10)

its not about learning how to paint, I do installs out of my two car garage at my house lol its a matter of space

when i had a real shop out east, we did have a paint booth and i did do some basic painting

G352NV

iTrader: (13)

I feel yeah. I do a LOT of work out of my two car garage,lol. But it also gets used for a booth time to time.

16psibrick

iTrader: (10)

wow, you spray in your garage? hehe, do you have a make shift paintbooth built to get rid of dust? i think my HOA would kick my *** if i start spraying in the garage lol

b

G352NV

iTrader: (13)

Lol no nothin, no plastic nothin. I do cover things I dont want overspray on but thats about it. I also turn off the gas to the hot water heater,lol. Some of my best stuff has come out of my garage. All my buddies give me a hard time when I tell them I have to rent a booth. Take a look at my site, www.tacoma.gixxer.com everything on that site was painted in my garage except my car. That white chevy with the blue flames has been in a mag. But I dont tell anyone that it was sprayed in my garage,lol. They wouldnt believe me anyway.

G352NV

iTrader: (13)

By the way I live in a new home. I just try and do stuff in the middle of the day when no one is home, hehehehe.

16psibrick

iTrader: (10)

lol do YOU wanna paint the piece i have coming for me? i know youa re kinda far but if you can do it relatively quick and do a good job and aint an arm and a leg

i have seen your G quite a few times, awesome stuff...awesome lookin wife too lol

just a fiberglass well for amp and subs for a Z, prolly mid to late december?

G352NV

iTrader: (13)

When you get it done send me a pic. What color?

16psibrick

iTrader: (10)

not sure yet, either just some kind of glossy black, or perhaps something else like silver..

it will be molded and rough sanded, so basically whats needed is heavy build primer, some minor finish sanding, and paint...

as for what it will look like, sorta like this:

http://altima.elitecaraudio.org/images/dcp00669.jpg

well., time is of an essence, so i will need to find a sure bet on paint before the car comes in...or else i may be standing around shopping for a paint shop when the car is here

b

G352NV

iTrader: (13)

Got ya. As you know the finish work is what takes time. If thats knocked out then the price goes down. Are you going to glaze the part? Or just glass and bondo it? What grit will it be finished with? Sorry about all the questions but to give a decent estimate Ill need to know these things.

16psibrick

iTrader: (10)

since its a non weight bearing part, after sanding down the mold cloth

i will go over it once with bondo and 40 grit, and then bondo again with 60 grit, and then go over it again wtih 150 grit...

thats where i have always left to the body shop to finish, from what i have experience, a few coats of high build primer seals any pin heads, and then maybe if there are any small rough places to sand down, then its just paint...and clear

int he past, i have gotten pieces about this size primed and painted for around 2-400 bucks depending on paint (flakes etc etc)

Bing

G352NV

iTrader: (13)

Yeah its just going to depend on the size and WORK that needs to be done. I know its just a truck piece but I like to colorsand cut and buff everything I do. Do you use evercoat bondo? I use 40 then 80 then 180. I like to finish in 180 so it doesnt pull scratch later down the line, primer shrinks. The reason why I asked about glaze is because of the pin holes. Thats what its for. If you dont use it primer will shrink and SOMETIMES the pin holes will show. But Im sure you know glaze is no fun to sand.
I dont have a problem shooting whatever you send me. As long as you know what to expect in the end. You know paint and Im sure you know paint doesnt hide anything, it shows it more.
When your ready hit me up with a PM and pics of the end result. Ill give ya a price. If the parts are in good shape Ill need one day to prep and prime. Another day to wetsand the primer and paint. Then Ill cut and buff the next day. So if everything goes as planned it will be 3 days of work.

accordfreak

iTrader: (15)

Care to write a DIY on painting say... a urethane or fiberglass bumper? How to prep, what materials to prep, what kind of primer, what kind of paint, where to buy, what kind of spray gun, etc etc.. that would be awesome! I want to learn.

G352NV

iTrader: (13)

This is from a LONG time ago. I did a write up about three years ago on a cycle forum. I dont think the links work but you get the picture. Some of this stuff is kind of out of date. But like I said you get the idea.
Heres a few tips, if anyone else has anything to add feel free!
Ive been getting a lot of PM's with members wanting to know how to paint their own bikes. First you will need a COMPRESSOR. Heres a link to a decent Compressor that will get you started
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=55222

Next you will need a decent HVLP gun. This is the one I started with and it works great for the price.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=90977
Next you will need a decent filter system to get clean DRY air. Heres the one that I started with.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=1118
Ok now its time to buy some material. You will need a good pre cleaner. You can buy this at autozone. Its also called a grease and wax remover. Its about 3.00 a can, one can should be enough. You will also need some tack rags and lint free rags. Now its time to buy some paint. Heres a link to the place where I buy my House of Kolor. You can use any kind of paint you wish but Ive found that HOK is easy to work with and easy to mix.(Custom jobs)
http://www.autobodysupply.net/houseofcolor/houseof.htm
First you will need to shop for a good primer.
http://www.autobodysupply.net/catalo...CategoryID=436
Then a sealer
(use the same link above)
Now time to think about a color. It is important to use a primer/sealer that is close to your base color you pick. Stay away from kandies they are pretty hard to learn and are not for the first timer.
Now shop for some clear. I use UC35 or UFC-35
http://www.autobodysupply.net/catalo...CategoryID=433
It tells you the mixing ratio in the link that you will need Reducer and hardner. You will also need Reducer for your base. You can use the same reducer for clear and reducer. When shopping for Reducer it comes in 310 311 and 312. 310 is for about 50' 311 is for 70' and 312 is for anything above that. Most HOK paint is 2 to 1 mixing. Now if you want to paint a few colors and lines on you fairings you need to buy fine line tape and masking tape. Its in this link about 3/4 of the way down the page.
http://www.autobodysupply.net/catal...?CategoryID=433
When you order the paint ask for tech sheets on the products your buying. This will tell you the mixing ratios. Also ask for paint mixing cups.
Ok now its time to paint! Next pick up some sand paper, you will need about four sheets of 400,800,1500 and about four sheets of 2000. Lets get started!Spray the pre clean on the parts before sanding and try to wipe off before it drys, do one part at a time(Get all grease wax ect). Then get some 400 grit wet sand paper sand all your parts. Make sure they are all dull and have no shine left on them! Once done with that wash your parts really well! Then get one of your tack rags and go over all the parts, this should remove lint ect. Now spray the precleaner on them and wipe clean again, with a lint free rag! Now mix up your primer, shoot your primer. Stay about six inches away from the parts. Give it a med coat. Let flash dry for about five min. Then hit it again pretty heavy. clean your gun out really good with thinner. Once the primer is dry wet sand with 400 then 800 wet. Try not to sand through the primer, were just trying to smooth it out! Once done wash the parts again let dry and hit it with precleaner. Now apply your sealer the same way as the primer. Let dry and make sure its flat and smooth. Now its time for the base. Tack rag and pre clean the parts again and mix up your base. Apply just enough base to cover and thats it! Dont over apply it! But make sure you get all edges! Also dont get in over your head! Only do parts that you know you can clear within 24hrs. Because after 24hrs. You have to scuff your base and reshoot your base then clear. Now that your base is down after about 20min you can shoot the clear. Or if your going to add other colors you can start to tape 15min after you shoot your base. Clean your gun of base really well with thinner! Mix up your clear and shoot your parts. Apply a thin coat of clear to your parts. Let flash for about 10 min. then hit it with a med coat. Let flash for 15min now hit it with a med/heavy coat. Your parts will be dry to the touch within eight hours at 70' and ready to wet sand out that orange peel in 24hrs, if you have any. This is where it gets tough! Take your 1500 and get a bowl and put a drop of soap and the rest water so your sand paper doesnt bite. Sand all your parts untill all the shine is gone. Yes this is a LOT of work! STAY AWAY FROM THE EDGES!!!!! again do not sand on or around the edges!! Take great care or you will sand through the clear and hit your base and fug up you whole job!! Once the parts are sanded with 1500 grab the 2000 and get to sanding! The parts will look really dull! You will think that there is no way in hell they will shine. Dont worry! Get some rubbing compound(3M) and buff the parts with a buffer. They will start to shine but this isnt the end. Wash the compound off really good! Now polish the parts with 3m glaze. You will be amazed at the shine! Thats it your done!!! Im sure many of you will still have questions feel free to contact me with them. Ill try and help! Good luck and have fun! Oh one more thing! DONT FORGET YOUR MASK!!! This chit will kill you!

G352NV

iTrader: (13)

Yep only one link works still. If this sounds like a job you want to try let me know and Ill post new links.

16psibrick

iTrader: (10)

cool, i do use evercoat. i hate glaze, though i never really tried it too much, my paint guy always told me his primer would seal the pin holes and honestly, i havent had much of an issue with them.

i certainly know hwat to expect with paint, so no, i wont be blaming you if my own crappy skills made waves of everything (whcih i shouldnt be doin)...

3 days is fine, infact, its shorter than most shops which claim 3 days, but really is about a week and a half

if you wanna do 40 80 180 i can do that as well, though seeing your work and knowing you, i prolly would let you do the final phase of finishing work and pay you a little extra...as I, along wtih some installers, hate sanding with a passion lol

i will be sure to be in touch soon.

Bing

accordfreak

iTrader: (15)

awesome write up!

with the sandpaper do you sand by hand or sanding block?