those will look great on your Z.

 

do you have to pull your fenders to make these wheels fit? i'm picking up a set of wheels this weekend that have similar measurements.

 

subscribing

 

Negative. You can tuck them in with camber. It's the style of the car he wants to build. Some people like it, some don't but since he's jocking my build with negative offsets he had to join in HAHA j/P

In any case, anyone thinking about doing this better have some cash for tires or have a hookup because it's not cheap to run -3 to -5 degree camber.

 

what size tires are you planning on? are camber arms required?

 

Well unless you want your car to have the wheels sticking out of the fender away from the body of the car, then yes, you need camber arms. Preferably new upper A-arms all around because rear camber arms will only push the lower part of the wheel out which sucks.

Wheel specs like that are for the daring only.

And unless you want to run extreme camber, it is in your advantage to run thinner tires and strech them so you have less of a rubbing issue. I am running:

Front: 245/35/19
Rear: 275/30/19

When I talked to Terrance last he was interested in doing a similar strech as mine so his ratio will be similar.

If you don't camber in, this is what it looks like:



After cambering, something like so:

 

I'm doing the same tire size combo on my 10.5"F and 11"R as urbantacticz

I'll only have to roll the inner fender tab for the rears and provide negative camber through front a-arms and rears...so basically my responses are the same as urban haha

 

is stretching your tires that much actually safe...it looks like it doesnt even sit well on the bead

 

as safe as any other larger sized mount...same ol same ol

 

urban, by any chance are you the owner of the white vertex z on hellaflush.com?

 

Those look waaaaaaaaay hot!

 

PAGE 1 pointless update in the daylight

...and a baby

 

Nope not me, you'd have to ask Mark whose car it is.

 

Nice. Looking forward to updates from both you and Prashant.

 

Like I say time and time again, in the world of streches, I am barely treading the water with the strech I have. WHen you start getting into the streches you see on low riders with 10" wide wheels wrapped in a 195mm tire, then you might need to start raising an eyebrow or two

 

What do you mean by the part in bold? (sorry if this is OT)

 

prashant meant that most rear camber arms in the market are designed to make your camber more positive (moving the bottom of the wheel in), rather than our intentions; we want to make our wheels more negative cambered (moving the bottom of the wheel out)

 

Right, that makes sense and that's what I thought: it is your intention to dial in negative camber causing the bottom part to stick out. When I read "rear camber arms will only push the lower part of the wheel out which sucks", it seems like he's saying it sucks that the lower part of the wheel sticks out.

 

Well what I really meant is that most camber solutions for the rear are through the arms on the bottom. The only way to adjust is through shortening or lengthening the arm which pushes the bottom of the wheel in/out. In our case, since our wheels are so wide as is, it's probably not best to push the bottom of the wheel out even more (to gain negative camber) because it sticks out so much as is. Instead, we would want to pull the top edge of the wheel in which is done through new a-arms.

If you look at the pictures of the rear I posted above, it would kinda look a little too wierd to push the wheel out even more on the bottom, that's too extreme for me

 

Another reason to pull the top of the wheel in instead of pushing the bottom out to gain camber is simply because we can! Since we don't have the spring mouned on the shock in the rear, we have a lot more room to play with.

And with that in mind, why not just pull the top in? Seems to be more simple even though in the end it might be if we have to get custom arms made.