Well its all in!! Every thing is A-OK. Now its time to get every thing together.

I'm going to try to get all of this done tomorrow. A few other issues popped up from my install so I got to talk to Seth at sonics about it. My wire for my speed sennor for logging was clipped so I need to put that back on and I got to figure out why the GPS keeps tracking me on the map even after I stop. It acts like my GPS speed wirre is hooked up to a 12v constant. Even when I stop it shows a speed input.

So needless to say I have a long day ahead of me. I'll try and get all the suspention parts on and I can always do the EDFC later. Oh yeah not to mention I still need to relocate my Air filters.

EDIT: Damit!! this means I have to sell the S-tech springs. If any one want them make an offer. With or with out the shocks up front. I have Mc Fearson compressors for the springs up front. On Island Only.

 

OK, here's what I got done:

EDFC mounted in center console
Wire EDFC for power
Ran all Wires for when suspension is installed.
Installed EDFC motors on Shocks


Pictures are as follows:

Pulled center console and mounted EDFC.
Removed moldings in the trunk for running wires
Run wire from hole in strut tower brace
pull wire through space on either side of the trunk where pannels have a gap.
it comes out on the inside open space behind drivers seat molding.
Remove molding and reach back and pull wires through

 

In the open space run the wires through the 2 holes behind the center console to the rear.
Remove molding under the hood that covers the batteries and brakes. (Run through 2 red circles)
Run the passanger side EDFC wire and the drivers side through the rubber boot behind the battery.
Wire power and all wires to EDFC.

 

Hook all the wires for hazards and necessary other wires to the spots under the console.
Clean up the the car and secure all the moldings.
All the EDFC motor's can be installed whenever. Its pretty straight forward if you follow directions.

Make sure to get all your suspention part prepped prior to actualy installing them. Ergo get all the suspention components the same hieght for each end. It just makes it easier to install later.

5 hours later your done. It took longer but I was trying to find all the ways to run wires hidden and make it look proffesional. Oh big note if your wiring up on our cars use the front wires on the rear of the car and the rear wires on the front. The front wires are just too short to run them hidden in behind all the molding.

Now all I have to do is pull the suspention and put in the Tein's and plug them in. Boom your ready to go then. I just wanted to do all this ahead of time to make the actual install of the suspention easier and quicker.

EDIT:

The mounting for the EDFC controler is going to be cover in black vynl to clean it up. If I can get a peice that small. This weekend I'll be able to finish the rest of the suspention.

 

GNC Gold card member huh? the install looks good.

 

The bracing is starting to come in. Got 3 of the 4 peices, just missing the 4 point ladder brace. Here they are on my couch. Yes I do have a couch!

 

I installed the the suspention today. It went pretty quick since I did it before with the springs. I had a few stuck bolts but no biggie. While I was at the back I went ahead and installed 2 of the 3 braces.

Didnt get a chance to install the camber and traction arms, Ran out of time and the shop was closing.

The biggest problem, welll realy there was 2. I was mistaken about the oval ports. I dont know what it was before that I thought was the top of the shocks but it wasnt the shock. I crawled in the trunk and looked in there to run the wire, yep no dice. So I had to drill a 1" hole to run the wires. Yeah that sucked.

The second big problem was that when I plugged all the motors in I was getting an error of both from motors were had no signal comming in. So I started to trouble shoot. All the wires were good so I though well if its the motors if I swithced the wire inputs the Error should swithch to showing an error in both rear chanels. Nothing changed, still showed the Error in the front channel. This leads me to beleave the front harness or the front input channel is bad. I'll check out the front input channel in the morning to see if there are shorts or opens.

On a good not I got a good 16 both front and rear sets of motors on the rear channel display which means all 4 motors are good and all the wires from the rear input harness are good.

 

How do the GT Spec bars feel?

 

Over all the car is stiffer and handels totaly diffrent under accelerated turns. It's like point and shoot. I think its a combanation of the suspention and the braces. Still more braces to go as well as the traction and control arms. Plus a good Alignment.

Still a little rough since my EDFC is out of commission. I got in touch with Tein and they are going to repair the control unit.

 

First, I sent out the EDFC controler this morning. The front input conector in the control is bad. Gonna be back here in about 2 weeks. .

So on to the good stuff. So I put in the tractionand camber bars today. Biggets tip because its a pain. When your replacing these, you need to pull both at the same time and remove the traction bar last and install it first. push the bushing end of the traction bar in first. Use the stock cambar bar as a lever. Flip it over, slide the bolt through and loosley put the nut in ( in the spot where its circled red). With the bar on you have plenty of leverage to manhandel the new traction bar in place.

So here we go. The second picture is the finished rear suspention, the third is the brace on the front (sorry its blurry). For good measure I installed the catch can, 4th pic. Tomorrow I'm getting an alignment and putting down -1.0 all the way arround.

So until the ladder bar gets in this is it. What do you think?

 

Looks hot! Nice set up going, I see you have the collars for the sways. I need to get those asap.

 

Just saw this thread.

How much room is there between that front reinforcement bar and the oil pan. Would the APS oil pan fit with the bar, or maybe even the stock oil pan with a spacer...or is there very little room?

 

i think its time for a more free flowing exhaust. injen = choking exhaust flow!!
nah nah, but the set up is looking real good. where you gonna use it if theres no track to race it at?! :P j/k have fun with the new set up, its looking good

 

^^^I believe he'll be moving back to the mainland in a while so he'll have plenty of opportunity to open this bad boy up.

 

with the Greddy pan about .5 inch or so. Yeah just fits in there so a spacer may be out of the question if you were looking for that.

I dont know how much more I wanna go with bigger pipes, I have the wastegates dumping to atmosphere so all the topend is free flowing. I just dont know what if any gains are to be had by adding the larger exhaust now. I was planning on maybe doing it when I got the forged engine in. Unless some one wants to buy the injen now gimme the money and I can get the 3" on the way.

 

GT Spec Ladder bar. Installing this one in the morning.

 

OK here it is, the quick down and dirty and finished product.

There is a clip that has threads for the front brace. Bend the tip so it will hook in the front hole. Bend the main part down so you can thread it through the hole. Slide the threaded part through then fish the hooked end back through the small hole and hook the bent tip though the large hole. Yeah confusing but the picture will show it

On either side those are the front mount, ther rear mounts are the threaded holes that are circled.

 

And here is the final setup.