Vortech S/C install opinions needed
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From: Silver Spring, MD
So I've decided to buy the Vortech Tuner kit with 3.12 pully, UTEC/map sensor, Walboro fuel pump, Deatchwerks 450cc injectors, stillen oil cooler, and AEM oil pan spacer.
I've already got headers, hf cats, borla true dual, clutch/flywheel, and 3.9 gears.
I'm thinking I should be at least around 410-420 whp with good tune.
I'm gonna need to set up some time at Sonics in October, so tell me what you guys think, the kits on order.
Thanks, Andy,
currently deployed over seas, Go Navy!
I've already got headers, hf cats, borla true dual, clutch/flywheel, and 3.9 gears.
I'm thinking I should be at least around 410-420 whp with good tune.
I'm gonna need to set up some time at Sonics in October, so tell me what you guys think, the kits on order.
Thanks, Andy,
currently deployed over seas, Go Navy!
Originally Posted by rr_z33
410-420 is a bit big for a s/c on stock internals. but good luck. sonics does really good work. ;-).
Originally Posted by redline350ZZ
It can be done easily. You have to remember that S/C produce "way, way" less torque and thats a factor in rod failure. I have not read about 1 Vortech kit that broke a rod on this site. There have been some failures like blow-by but that was from improper tunning or really stupid owners messing with things they shouldn't be. Procharger failures from running stock timing was common when they first came out too.
.
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Yeah, I'm looking fwd to it, I've been waiting for waht seem like forever to make the change.
I considered the TN kit, but I felt the SC would compliment the mods I've already done.
I'm also looking for a BBK if anyone's knows of one available?
Does anyone have Sonics mailing address by chance.
Andy
I considered the TN kit, but I felt the SC would compliment the mods I've already done.
I'm also looking for a BBK if anyone's knows of one available?
Does anyone have Sonics mailing address by chance.
Andy
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From: Silver Spring, MD
Originally Posted by rr_z33
mmm well vortech doesnt look like too hard of an install but sonics address is...
Sonic Motorsports
1927 Republican St
Honolulu, Hawaii 96819
Sonic Motorsports
1927 Republican St
Honolulu, Hawaii 96819
Thanks
I was considering doin it myself, still not sure though. I figured I'd go island hoping while Sonics was hooking it up.
Originally Posted by GZire
Congrats on the impending jump into FI. Best of luck with your build. For what it's worth, you might want to channel the BBK money to internals instead.
And Boston if you want recomendations on internals or a good company for the engine, drop me a line.
If you dont plan on racing it, you should be fine with stock internals.
If you want to track it eventualy the best and cheapest safety for strength is to get some weisco 10.0:1(ish) pistons and eagle H beams.
Definatley do the path finder rear cylinder cooling mod. It helps with the overall cooling of you rear cylinders. A larger radiator isnt totaly necessary here because of the moderate temps, but if you are going any where that gets in the upper 90's to 100's its a good mod. An oil cooler wont hurt either, you can peice mill a set up fairly cheap (mocal thermo switch plate, cooler, fittings and lines). A few other things you may look at getting is a boost guage, AF guage, and Fuel pressure guage at a min. No real need for EGT because the SC doesnt realy ramp up exhaust gas temps too much. Defi is a fairly decent brand and they can daisy chain so no running a crap load of wires. If your getting the UTEC you can get moduals that will data log these for you so the guages are not realy needed and you can stay stealth'ish. Which brings me to the engine management. You will at least need an EU with the ignition modual and pressure sensor, but if you can afford that just get the UTEC and TXS pressure sensor.
For the money the pistons and rods are the best security you can have, it wont cost that much if you get the assembly here. The shipping for an engine is about $750 ish one way so if you can get assembly done here for less than $1500 go for it.
The biggest reason why I went off island for my build was all the work I had done. If your just wanting pistons and rods, stay on island if its less than $1500 over build price. I know I push for bultZ alot but this is a diffrent world out here on island. Lots of other hidden costs.
As for the 420WHP thats real optimistic for an SC setup. Not saying it cant be done but they put ALOT of heat into the charge and the adiabatic efficiency is definately less than that of a TT set up. Hell a my TT put 413 to the wheels at 7.9. your looking arround 320-340ish on an sc with that psi and a safe tune. Not dituring you away from an SC setup by any means, if your not looking for massive gains and every thing comming in early in the RPMs than the SC is right for you.
If you want to track it eventualy the best and cheapest safety for strength is to get some weisco 10.0:1(ish) pistons and eagle H beams.
Definatley do the path finder rear cylinder cooling mod. It helps with the overall cooling of you rear cylinders. A larger radiator isnt totaly necessary here because of the moderate temps, but if you are going any where that gets in the upper 90's to 100's its a good mod. An oil cooler wont hurt either, you can peice mill a set up fairly cheap (mocal thermo switch plate, cooler, fittings and lines). A few other things you may look at getting is a boost guage, AF guage, and Fuel pressure guage at a min. No real need for EGT because the SC doesnt realy ramp up exhaust gas temps too much. Defi is a fairly decent brand and they can daisy chain so no running a crap load of wires. If your getting the UTEC you can get moduals that will data log these for you so the guages are not realy needed and you can stay stealth'ish. Which brings me to the engine management. You will at least need an EU with the ignition modual and pressure sensor, but if you can afford that just get the UTEC and TXS pressure sensor.
For the money the pistons and rods are the best security you can have, it wont cost that much if you get the assembly here. The shipping for an engine is about $750 ish one way so if you can get assembly done here for less than $1500 go for it.
The biggest reason why I went off island for my build was all the work I had done. If your just wanting pistons and rods, stay on island if its less than $1500 over build price. I know I push for bultZ alot but this is a diffrent world out here on island. Lots of other hidden costs.
As for the 420WHP thats real optimistic for an SC setup. Not saying it cant be done but they put ALOT of heat into the charge and the adiabatic efficiency is definately less than that of a TT set up. Hell a my TT put 413 to the wheels at 7.9. your looking arround 320-340ish on an sc with that psi and a safe tune. Not dituring you away from an SC setup by any means, if your not looking for massive gains and every thing comming in early in the RPMs than the SC is right for you.
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Thanks, great info.
I'm gonna go with out the internals considering I'll never track my car, hell I don't even drive it that hard.
As for the gages, yes I need to get these, but what's the comment about the moduals and the UTEC? I've already decided on the UTEC, so what would I need else. Is it like a digital display or something that I can get all that gage info from??
I have also decided on the oil cooler already as well, so that should help wit hthe cooling a bit, also considering the S/C is cooled by the engine oil via tap.
So what do you anticipate for install costs?
Thanks, Andy
I'm gonna go with out the internals considering I'll never track my car, hell I don't even drive it that hard.
As for the gages, yes I need to get these, but what's the comment about the moduals and the UTEC? I've already decided on the UTEC, so what would I need else. Is it like a digital display or something that I can get all that gage info from??
I have also decided on the oil cooler already as well, so that should help wit hthe cooling a bit, also considering the S/C is cooled by the engine oil via tap.
So what do you anticipate for install costs?
Thanks, Andy
its all in the tune.. I have same setup but dont have headers and the final drive.
you WILL need a new fuel manegment if your going with the 3.12 pully. also get a reflash to raise your idle and redline. it will let you gain more boost/power top end.
you WILL need a new fuel manegment if your going with the 3.12 pully. also get a reflash to raise your idle and redline. it will let you gain more boost/power top end.
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....hlight=vortech
Andy look at this thread... very very helpful!!!
Andy look at this thread... very very helpful!!!
Originally Posted by BostonZ
.......I'm gonna go with out the internals considering I'll never track my car, hell I don't even drive it that hard.
Originally Posted by BosonZ
As for the gages, yes I need to get these, but what's the comment about the moduals and the UTEC? I've already decided on the UTEC, so what would I need else. Is it like a digital display or something that I can get all that gage info from??.........

Display unit mounted in ashtray. Control Unit mounted in navi-screen cubby.

Top to bottom: Innovate wideband AFR, Defi BF EGT, & Defi BF Boost.


Here are some pics of my trip guage pod. I went a little diffrent route the GZ. I actualy pobded the pods to the piller and not screwed them in. Comes out with a more finished look. I did a write up a year or so ago about the install. If you go Defi then you might want to take a look at it. It shows the best ways on how to run stuff and where to mount it. The comment I made about the UTEC was I've seen some people go sans guages and let the UTEC do the job of logging and controlling the car and your basicly flying blind.
In the cubby I have the EDFC and blitz SBC ID II. The EDFC is in the cell phone holder just to the right in the center console.

EDIT: Sorry its so big
There is a good example of a twin ATI colum pod that I use to have. This is from a write up a while back the pillar pod on the left is the molded one and you can see the wire for the daisy chain for the fuel pressure gauge All I have to do now to install the guage is run the feed to the head unit and plug in the guage to that wire. Thats it saves ALOT of time and money.
Last edited by punish_her; Jun 22, 2007 at 11:45 PM.


