well if it was a stuck injector i guess im gonna have to buy new injectors too :\. haha yay lots of money going into the air. hopefully when im done though ill have somewhat of a fast car. gotta get my fuel mods too to support the new power i want. and new wastegate spings. back to researching what i need. hopefully i can come close to your car ;-). i opted out of sleeving because i want a car that can do curcuit style racing but still hold it down on the way home on the freeway. im not really a fan of straight line but if the time calls for it then at least itll be there. well see how my stock non brembos and stock suspension holds up to all this power. im pretty sure the trans is gonna be the next thing to break.

 

For the brakes, they definately will go out quick. I've gotten fade a bit but you can upgrade the lines, fluids, pands, and rotors and you can get better performance form them. BBK's reduce heat and increase braking by increasing surface area. Adding multiple pots evens the load and increases clamping forces.

The stock tranny can hold ALOT of power if you shift right. The half shafts go out WAY before the tranny, usualy. The stock suspention is pretty good but as with any OEM setup, they are designed for the average use. There is always a little tweaking to get better responce.

It all breaks down to what exactly you want to use it for and how far you want to push your car.

 

kamu pretty much knows know hard i like to push cars. i take it to the absolute limits when i drive it in turns. i actually was quite suprised with the stock suspension setup. i mean it could use a little tweaking but for a stock suspension its pretty dayum good. the breaks are deffinetly a weak point. i really noticed when i drove kamus car vs my car. i instantly noticed the difference with the bbk. stopping power was just so much better. it was a whole differnet game. well see how the rest of the drivetrain handles all the power. butt hopefully by the summer after this one ill have my car ready to put down some good times in cali. i pretty much have my little list of things i need to build a good street/track car.

 

Haha whats the point of having all that power if your not going to be able to stop when you want to. BBK FTW!!!!

 

fukum it will only hurt just a little more harder i gotta hit the wall.... nah nah. *knocks on wood*. BBK deffinetly another thing ill look at. lilly seys hi kamu

 

Here is a lead fo you: http://fastbrakes.com/shop/index.php...26132d6549b46c

A lot of people get hung up on needing to have the stoptech, endless, wilwood, or the next big thing. The trouble is some of those eliminate the parking brake. Not good! Most are just realy expensive and basicly over priced.

This company produces a front and rear 14" 6 pot kit for close to most companies price the front set only.(this is what I could find quick) http://www.alteredatmosphere.com/mm5...Code=350Z_BRAK. The fast brakes kit actualy uses Dynalite and Superlite calipers which are actualy Wilwood's. http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/index.asp So they are good quality.

So you can a front and rear 14" full Wilwood kit for cheap. Hell the 13" 4 pot F/R kit is only $2300.

Here is an example:

http://www.alteredatmosphere.com/mm5...Code=350Z_BRAK

Front $1745.00

http://www.alteredatmosphere.com/mm5...Code=350Z_BRAK

Rear $1870.00

Total kit: $3,615.00 for just the 13" kit. Thats $1,300 more than the Fastbrakes kit!

 

haha you crazy guy you never sleep huh?? well i quite like kamus rotora. but idk well see. priorities are in getting the motor back together and running. hopefully by the next summer after this one ill be able to put together the rest of the car and have a little road course monster =). 400whp was good but i felt that the car could use a little more power for the straights. and considering the only place in hawaii where you can hit turns at is tantalus. and we all know its not much of a straight course. so if the power isnt really enough there i really dont think itll be enough on an actual road course with longer straights and more sweeping turns. but hopefully i can put together a good setup and rep hawaii drivers in cali!!

 

I doubt the injector is stuck seeing that you said you were driving about 20mph. Injectors normally get stuck when they are run in a 90% duty cycle and above for prolonged periods of time. Most likely your car died simply because when you install the fuel return system it makes the car run significantly richer. Also what did you set fuel pressure at once the system was installed? If the motor is salvageable I highely sugest that you fix it now, get the car running again. Then get the fuel system setup so that it drives good and not overly rich. Then go ahead and pull the motor and drop in a new one. Break in is extremely important. You're not even supposed to let the car idle for long once the motor is running. It needs varied rpm and load to help properly seat the rings. If you fiddle with the fuel and stuff in the beginning without varied rpm and load you will most likely make the cylinders lose their cross-hatching and turn it into a mirror. The first half-hour of running is the most important.

 

Fuel pressure was set at 56 psi. without vaccum attached. Ryan tell Lilly i said Hi.

 

Roughly a 40% increase of fuel over previous setup under partial load and 60% increase in fuel under boost. This is why fuel return system is so great. Its much easier to increase fuel delivery with fuel pressure referenced to manifold pressure. However this large increase in fuel requires tuning. Downside to fuel return is emissions and fuel economy. The more fuel is circulated the easier it is to evaporate. Hence why most automakers are producing their cars as returnless. Oh and its cheaper too haha.

 

Haha so do you think because it didnt get tuned again this happened? I want to learn.

 

alright well heres just a quick update. kamu is a lazy guy =). other than that tomorrow ill be ordering the rods and pistons. JE 8.5:1 Compression Pistons, Eagle H-Beam Rods, comes with ARP Rod Bolts. The thing is ill only be paying $1,1xx. Thnk God for EBAY!!

 

once the motor is built you think you could get everything setup for proper break in? im think that we had the fuel pressure set way to high. i think kamu forgot to mention that we did get a knock reading from the scanner the first time it died out because of the fact that the car had no gas. could i have damaged the ring to a point where it was still drivable but just kind of like a time bomb waiting to go off? we should know for sure tomorrow though. hopefully kamu feels motivated to pull the motor apart 2morrow.

 

You'll pulled the motor out already? With what you described theres a 80% chance that the motor can run again. It sounds like you simply washed the walls of oil so its seized. If the cylinders were perfect and pistons everything was perfect, but theres no oil, it wont turn. I seriously think if you didn't pull it you should just fix it, make it run and adjust fuel pressure and make sure everything fuel related is good. Then pull it apart and drop in the new motor. If your setup now screwed up your last motor. Kiss your new motor goodbye.

 

what if i just ran the new motor through the break in period w/o fuel return. the fuel setup w/o the fuel return was fine. i just thought about that a little while ago.

 

Should be ok that way. However if the motor is fine then might as well make it run decently with the return system that way the new motor doesn't experience extreme rich. Also then you can move the car under its own will till the new motor arrives. Trust me I have tons of experience with projects. In fact I have 8 cars at my shop right now getting new motors. If I had a choice to keep them running till a new motor comes so I can simply transfer over, I'd be happy. If you take it apart you gotta label everything pack it away nicely all that crap. Then when the new one comes in you gotta sorta through it all. Much easier to have it running when the new motor comes.

 

nope motor is still in. Ill see whats up tommorrow. Imma stick my little fiber optic lense down into the tube to see how badly, if any the walls are fcked up. Just dont have the space to have another motor out waiting for the parts to come in. I think that is the reasoning behind me not doing anything. Well ill check tommorrow for sure.

 

Hey man, FYI...

So did you determine if it was washed, hydrolocked, or just plane fcuked? If you are going through with the build; upgrade ALL the main fasteners. Not just the Con Rod bolts. (Main studs, head studs, etc.) Otherwise you are just passing the weak points on to the next weakest part; ie wristpins, main studs... Also for the power you are wanting you need headstuds for shure.

Yeah there are alot of inexpensive parts to be found and money to be saved but pleas dont sacrifice quality for price. This is advice, not saying you did do this yet or ever. Speaking of ebay, I saw a set of VQ Pauter Rods http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Paute...QQcmdZViewItem. A fairly decent price. But you are still left with the need of pistons.

 

I have CP pistons and eagle rods in stock actually.

 

found out today it was just that the injector got stuck open. all the parts ordered. gotta decide now wether or not to build since i have everything