digital cameras
#61
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Yeah, RAW is the only way to go. Get yourself RawShooter Essentials software to work with RAW. It's free and very good. It's good for previewing and for adjustin WB, exposure and contrast before PS. Ideally, for good shots you only need PS to crop pictures.
Don't even install Canon's crap software
Don't even install Canon's crap software
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Originally Posted by Vlad
There is a clone of Canon's 520 flash. From Quantarray, if I remember well. It's half the price and have excellent reviews. Flash is something you can afford to be non-Canon if on tight budget.
If you really need light for inside/studio work - don't get flash, get srobes. Check Aleinbees.com. Very reasonable prices for good semi-pro strobes. You can get two AB for price of one good Canon's flash.
If looking for cheap 50mm prime get non-L Mk1. Current Mk2 version has plastic ring and some other things cheaper than Mk1. Otherwise it's the only great sub$100 non-L lens. You can find Mk1 on ebay or photosites.
If you really need light for inside/studio work - don't get flash, get srobes. Check Aleinbees.com. Very reasonable prices for good semi-pro strobes. You can get two AB for price of one good Canon's flash.
If looking for cheap 50mm prime get non-L Mk1. Current Mk2 version has plastic ring and some other things cheaper than Mk1. Otherwise it's the only great sub$100 non-L lens. You can find Mk1 on ebay or photosites.
I've looked on B&H for the 50mm and it was rather well-priced (better than Dell with a percentage off deal). That one will probably be my next lens simply b/c of its affordabilty, plus I was turned onto it from a site called photosig.com. The shots taken with the 50mm and the XT were amazing, especially b/c of the price of the lens itself! I knew that it was one that I needed to add to my collection... but then again, I really need a lot of practice with taking SLR pictures b/c it isn't as easy as it sounds (for this newbie)
Right now, I have to learn about using WB b/c some recents pictures on a daytime outing came out less than stellar... I was advised on another board that I need to work with the custom WB in order to get some more clarity. That in addition to a few other settings for sharpness.
Thanks Vlad
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Yobri,
If you want you can send me one of your raw files and I can show you what photoshop and raw files can do. If you do send one send one that not well exposed, but not overexposed (blown out too bright)
bravetiger@charter.net
If you want you can send me one of your raw files and I can show you what photoshop and raw files can do. If you do send one send one that not well exposed, but not overexposed (blown out too bright)
bravetiger@charter.net
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Originally Posted by Vlad
Yeah, RAW is the only way to go. Get yourself RawShooter Essentials software to work with RAW. It's free and very good. It's good for previewing and for adjustin WB, exposure and contrast before PS. Ideally, for good shots you only need PS to crop pictures.
Don't even install Canon's crap software
Don't even install Canon's crap software
Luckily I got a 1gb 80x CF card from one of the Z members on this board... looks like I'll need that space if I'm going to shoot RAW
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Originally Posted by imntcrzy
Yobri,
If you want you can send me one of your raw files and I can show you what photoshop and raw files can do. If you do send one send one that not well exposed, but not overexposed (blown out too bright)
bravetiger@charter.net
If you want you can send me one of your raw files and I can show you what photoshop and raw files can do. If you do send one send one that not well exposed, but not overexposed (blown out too bright)
bravetiger@charter.net
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If you are using adobe photoshop cs, it has something called ACR (adobe camera raw) which you can use to process the raw files.
Jpeg is fine, but if you are looking for optimal quality shoot raw, almost all professional commercial shooters shoot raw.
The advantages of raw are very numberous.
Jpegs are compressed files and contain noise, Raw files are uncompressed and have much less noise if any.
Raw files are 16bit and jpegs are 8bit, the 16bit file obviously has much more information.
Here are the real big advantages of raw:
You can set white balance and iso in the photoshop session after the picture is taken. Basically this means if you shot something and it was too dark because the film speed was only 100 or 200. With raw you can bump the speed to 400 and now your exposure will be fine. With jpegs you can brighten up the picture using many different methods but it is not even close to using raw files. Also same thing with white balance. If you shoot with tungsten white balance or any other white balance mode and it turns out to be the wrong one, you can change the white balance after the fact.
the disadvantages of raw are: files are larger, so less on the card. Files are larger so a burst of multiple shots may lag your camera a bit.
and yes raw image can be seen in the rear lcd.
Jpeg is fine, but if you are looking for optimal quality shoot raw, almost all professional commercial shooters shoot raw.
The advantages of raw are very numberous.
Jpegs are compressed files and contain noise, Raw files are uncompressed and have much less noise if any.
Raw files are 16bit and jpegs are 8bit, the 16bit file obviously has much more information.
Here are the real big advantages of raw:
You can set white balance and iso in the photoshop session after the picture is taken. Basically this means if you shot something and it was too dark because the film speed was only 100 or 200. With raw you can bump the speed to 400 and now your exposure will be fine. With jpegs you can brighten up the picture using many different methods but it is not even close to using raw files. Also same thing with white balance. If you shoot with tungsten white balance or any other white balance mode and it turns out to be the wrong one, you can change the white balance after the fact.
the disadvantages of raw are: files are larger, so less on the card. Files are larger so a burst of multiple shots may lag your camera a bit.
and yes raw image can be seen in the rear lcd.
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Originally Posted by imntcrzy
If you are using adobe photoshop cs, it has something called ACR (adobe camera raw) which you can use to process the raw files.
Originally Posted by imntcrzy
You can set white balance and iso in the photoshop session after the picture is taken. Basically this means if you shot something and it was too dark because the film speed was only 100 or 200. With raw you can bump the speed to 400 and now your exposure will be fine. With jpegs you can brighten up the picture using many different methods but it is not even close to using raw files. Also same thing with white balance. If you shoot with tungsten white balance or any other white balance mode and it turns out to be the wrong one, you can change the white balance after the fact.
Originally Posted by imntcrzy
and yes raw image can be seen in the rear lcd.
#68
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Sure RAWs can be previewed in camera. It's kind of unusual to not use jpegs.... But after investing so much in your equipment it's really time to grow. RAW is especially great for WB, since you don't have to warry about it at shooting time.
Just go to menu, switch format to RAW, set WB to "custom", and set custom temperature to around 5800 (average daylight is 5000 to 6000. I personaly like 5800). Vuala. After downloading pictures just go to RawShooter and adjust WB as seems right. Unlike jpeg manipulation you won't have data loss with RAW.
BTW, it's about time to get yourself a good monitor to work with graphics. Surprise, surprise - LCDs are crap and can't be calibrated. You need pro CRT and need to harry, because they'll probably stop making them this year. LaCie is the best choise:
http://reviews.cnet.com/4864-3175_7-...12&ctype=msgid
19" can be ordered direct from manufacturer for about $350.
Then it's good to have calibration hardware for the monitor. Monaco Optics XR is the had the best prece/quality ratio. About $300.
Only after having those two things you can really see what you doing (i.e true colors).
Just go to menu, switch format to RAW, set WB to "custom", and set custom temperature to around 5800 (average daylight is 5000 to 6000. I personaly like 5800). Vuala. After downloading pictures just go to RawShooter and adjust WB as seems right. Unlike jpeg manipulation you won't have data loss with RAW.
BTW, it's about time to get yourself a good monitor to work with graphics. Surprise, surprise - LCDs are crap and can't be calibrated. You need pro CRT and need to harry, because they'll probably stop making them this year. LaCie is the best choise:
http://reviews.cnet.com/4864-3175_7-...12&ctype=msgid
19" can be ordered direct from manufacturer for about $350.
Then it's good to have calibration hardware for the monitor. Monaco Optics XR is the had the best prece/quality ratio. About $300.
Only after having those two things you can really see what you doing (i.e true colors).
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Originally Posted by yobri
Now that is interesting! So it looks like you can manipulate WB at the camera end or during PP. So it looks like if I mess up the WB settings in RAW, I can use PS to fix it once again. Now that is a GREAT feature!
yup!!
#70
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Originally Posted by imntcrzy
yup!!
Last edited by Vlad; 07-22-2005 at 12:10 PM.
#71
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Originally Posted by imntcrzy
Files are larger so a burst of multiple shots may lag your camera a bit.
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Originally Posted by Vlad
BTW, it's about time to get yourself a good monitor to work with graphics. Surprise, surprise - LCDs are crap and can't be calibrated. You need pro CRT and need to harry, because they'll probably stop making them this year. LaCie is the best choise:
http://reviews.cnet.com/4864-3175_7-...12&ctype=msgid
19" can be ordered direct from manufacturer for about $350.
Then it's good to have calibration hardware for the monitor. Monaco Optics XR is the had the best prece/quality ratio. About $300.
Only after having those two things you can really see what you doing (i.e true colors).
True true, I've had the same headaches with LCD calibration too. I used to use the lacie elctron 22b and now I use Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 2070. Both were great and much easier to calibrate than LCD. WHen my mitsu dies I may save for sony artisan.
Yobri, most of this stuff is if exact color is imperitive... like if you are making money off your images... while it is good to invest in good monitor and calibration tools. Adobe gamma is a good free way to get your monitor within working paramaters. Don't get me wrong its not even close to a proper calibration system but it helps. If you get a photo printer than the calibration tools will be even more usefull.
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Originally Posted by Vlad
You don't care about WB settings in camera. Keep it custom 5800K all the time. And don't use PS to adjust. Use dedicated RAW software. Like RawShooter.
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I recently purchased a CASIO Z750. Awesome camera. I have had several digitals. This one is spectacular. Also 7.2 mp all for under $400.00 Highly recommended.
see the review at;
http://steves-digicams.com/2005_reviews/ex-z750.html
Got mine through Amazon, though better pricing is available.
MJD
see the review at;
http://steves-digicams.com/2005_reviews/ex-z750.html
Got mine through Amazon, though better pricing is available.
MJD
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Originally Posted by Vlad
I don't think so. It all depends what works faster: in camera processor to convert to jpeg, or writing mechanism to dump raw on card. If it's fast card and slow processor, then shooting RAW is actually faster. And most good cameras has a buffer for fast shooting, so it goes to buffer before going to card. So if no jpeg-convertion necessary it'll be faster.
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Originally Posted by Vlad
Just go to menu, switch format to RAW, set WB to "custom", and set custom temperature to around 5800 (average daylight is 5000 to 6000. I personaly like 5800). Vuala. After downloading pictures just go to RawShooter and adjust WB as seems right. Unlike jpeg manipulation you won't have data loss with RAW.
Originally Posted by Vlad
BTW, it's about time to get yourself a good monitor to work with graphics. Surprise, surprise - LCDs are crap and can't be calibrated. You need pro CRT and need to harry, because they'll probably stop making them this year. LaCie is the best choise:
http://reviews.cnet.com/4864-3175_7-...12&ctype=msgid
http://reviews.cnet.com/4864-3175_7-...12&ctype=msgid
Originally Posted by Vlad
Then it's good to have calibration hardware for the monitor. Monaco Optics XR is the had the best prece/quality ratio. About $300.
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Originally Posted by Vlad
You don't care about WB settings in camera. Keep it custom 5800K all the time. And don't use PS to adjust. Use dedicated RAW software. Like RawShooter.
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Originally Posted by imntcrzy
Yobri, most of this stuff is if exact color is imperitive... like if you are making money off your images... while it is good to invest in good monitor and calibration tools. Adobe gamma is a good free way to get your monitor within working paramaters. Don't get me wrong its not even close to a proper calibration system but it helps. If you get a photo printer than the calibration tools will be even more usefull.
#79
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Originally Posted by yobri
Wow! That's new to me... are there any LCDs that can be calibrated?
Dang, that a pretty hefty piece of software there... 300 bucks... Thanks for the reco, I'll have to research the CRT avenue now it looks like...
Last edited by Vlad; 07-22-2005 at 01:06 PM.
#80
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Originally Posted by yobri
Adobe Gamma, huh? Nothing beats free... at least in my amateur SLR shooting stage
I don't know why PS can't do it better. I just accept it. I'm having troubles remembering stuff I know to warry about inner works. As you can see, photo workflow can be pretty extensive and complex...
And I bet you didn't hear about color profiles yet... like sRGB versus AdobeRGB... BTW,as attractive as "Adobe..." might sound, make sure to set it to sRGB both in your camera and in PS. Google it for more.
Last edited by Vlad; 07-22-2005 at 01:02 PM.