Can life get any better? You've got a great cam, great looking GF, and a great company... only if you was Bill Gates or Hugh Hefner I think.

Even with that resized pic, I am impressed with the capabilities of that body.

 

lol...seems to be doing okay. I thought the other day it may have a small leak but I haven't looked at it close enough to know. If it's there it's certainly not bad.

 

Great shot, although I'm convinced that in this case it is due to the subject as opposed to the photog or the equipment.

Seriously, it looks very good for ISO 2000 IMO.

 

LOL...you are definatly right.

 

WOW!! That's nice.
ISO, nice ISO.

 

nice cupboards, more pics of those please

btw, are you having a clearance sale on your site that all rims are going for $0.01 per rim?

 

haha....its just a placeholder. I tried to put a price of zero dollars, and it ended up being a "name your own price" button...LOL. So I left it at .01

On a side note, I picked up a 50mm 1.8D lense for $100 and this thing is tack sharp. Are all of the primes this good????

 

Yep, but better.

 

I'm actually in the market...but can't decide between a d80 and the XTI...my main concern is low level lighting situations....any suggestions for a newbie?

 

I have never seen sharpness like this from my other Nikon Lenses...except from my Nikor 60mm 2.8 Macro.

I snapped this one early...straight out of the camera...all auto settings.

I can't believe this is a $100 lense.

 

^^^ primes are great. I'll never forget the day I first bought one (24mm 1.8L) I thought.. ohhhhhhhhhhh so THIS is what I've been missing.

 

Not to be mr. negativity, but most lenses will be that sharp once stopped down to f/11. most of the difference will be noticed at ~ f/3.2 and larger apertures. The lower quality primes won't be as sharp until stopped down about one f-stop

 

With my other lenses, it's just hard to actually get to f/11 without a really slow shutter on a cloudy day like today.

 

40D and D40x are in different categories. D40x is for people who are new to DSLR- like me. this camera has a lot offer and still user friendly. good price too. canon or nikon, you can't go wrong. remember its the person behind the camera that creates the art.

 

but it shouldn't be a problem now that you can shoot at higher iso and not worry about noise

at f/11 on a cloudy day, you should be able to get shutter speeds of around 1/60-1/80 at iso 200-400. Those are my settings (with a circular polarizer, which is about two f-stops) when I'm shooting motorsports on a cloudy day since I try and keep my aperture around f/11 when panning.

 

Anyone care to explain (in layman’s terms) "iso". I can choose between all differnt kinds of iso settings on my camera but don't understand it so I just leave it on auto.

 

wow!

Uhhh....anyone wanna buy canon gear? looks like im getting a Nikon!

 

must have been cold this day..

 

the NIkon F1.8 50mm is only 115$ and it was NICE!

 

In lamens terms, it's sensitivity to light. The lower the number, the more light needed. For example, on a bright sunny day, the ideal ISO would be 50, 100, 200. On a cloudy day, 200 or 400. For poor lighting, 800+

These are just general ISO ratings people would use. There are times when you will manipulate the image by using the ISO to control your shutter speed or aperture. Once you grasp the general concept of shutter speed, aperture, and ISO rating, you'll learn how all three are tied together.

For example, you're shooting a waterfall close to sun set. You have your camera on a tripod, let's say it's a Canon 40D with a Canon 10-22. To get the water blur, you'll want shutter speeds of approximately 1/15 but ideally you'll want it slower, somewhere around 1 second depending on the speed of the water. At that setting of 1 second and an aperture of approximately f/11, you'll set your ISO to around 100. Now, how are all three tied together? If you want to increase your depth of field, you'll change your aperture to f/13, you are letting in less light so you have two options:
1) decrease shutter speed
2) increase ISO to 200
3) combination of both

If you don't make any changes, the image will be underexposed (dark) since you're letting in less light by shooting at smaller aperture (f/13 instead of f/11).

I use my ISO to change my depth of field when I'm panning.

For example, I'm shooting at 1/60, f/11, iso 200 on a partly sunny day. Suddently, the clouds get darker so my aperture is now around f/8, I'll increase the ISO to 400 to get the aperture back up to f/11. Going from f/8 to f/11 decreases the amount of lighting coming in from the lens, so increasing the ISO from 200 to 400 increases the light sensitivity. Choosing shutter speed, aperture, and ISO is a balance between the three. Amateur photographers eventually learn how these three settings will effect their images, it's a lot of new info to absorb.

Hope I didn't confuse you too much lol