Sunset pics
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From: Surprise Az
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From: Waipahu HI; Phoenix AZ
Originally Posted by gr?
I'm using a 580EX to trigger a 420 and 430EX with good results. It takes some practice until you learn what distance and what angle to light the car, but once you get it down, it's pretty easy. Here's a shot I took yesterday (430EX on the left and 420EX on the right, 580EX straight on)
It was really cloudy yesterday so the colors were dull and flat until I used the speedlites. Most wouldn't be able to tell that strobes were used unless they look at the lighting on the wheels, which is too dynamic to be from natural light.
Here's an alternative to the PW for $25 http://radiopopper.com/model_jr.php
Available in a few months
It was really cloudy yesterday so the colors were dull and flat until I used the speedlites. Most wouldn't be able to tell that strobes were used unless they look at the lighting on the wheels, which is too dynamic to be from natural light.
Here's an alternative to the PW for $25 http://radiopopper.com/model_jr.php
Available in a few months
Been reading on the Radio Poppers for the past 2 months and been reading the blog... TTL remote sounds like a big plus, I guess that's what IR has over radio.
Another alternative that looks good is the Skyports from Elinchrom.
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From: Lancaster, PA
I always forget to take pictures of the set up shot. Here's one shot of the set up from last year to give you an idea of where the speedlites are
When using IR, you'll have the IR sensor facing you and the flash head swiveled in another direction (hard to see in the photo). I try and have the flash head pointed about 45-60 degrees from where I want the light. If you hit it direct, you'll get hot spots on the paint. These can be removed via post processing, but the less you get, the better (less time spent on post processing). I've been testing the effect of the height of the stands, also. Of course the higher they are, the less light spread you get on the ground. Some people like seeing the flash hitting the ground, some don't. It's personal preference. There are times when I want the artificial lighting to be seamless, so I'll have the light stands positioned higher. The times I want the flash to hit the ground, I'll position them lower. No matter how you do it, you'll get conflicting results. I'll get responses like:
"I love how the lighting hits the wheel"
"I don't like how bright the wheel is lit"
"the image looks grainy" (in reference to the pearl paint, which sparkles with artificial lighting)
As far as flash settings, I was using the 580 as the master so I was using ETTL. I have a bunch of ebay triggers but when I have line of sight, I prefer using ETTL. No diffusers on any of the speedlites. I'll have the camera set on manual mode and underexpose the image by 1-2/3 stops.
When using IR, you'll have the IR sensor facing you and the flash head swiveled in another direction (hard to see in the photo). I try and have the flash head pointed about 45-60 degrees from where I want the light. If you hit it direct, you'll get hot spots on the paint. These can be removed via post processing, but the less you get, the better (less time spent on post processing). I've been testing the effect of the height of the stands, also. Of course the higher they are, the less light spread you get on the ground. Some people like seeing the flash hitting the ground, some don't. It's personal preference. There are times when I want the artificial lighting to be seamless, so I'll have the light stands positioned higher. The times I want the flash to hit the ground, I'll position them lower. No matter how you do it, you'll get conflicting results. I'll get responses like:
"I love how the lighting hits the wheel"
"I don't like how bright the wheel is lit"
"the image looks grainy" (in reference to the pearl paint, which sparkles with artificial lighting)
As far as flash settings, I was using the 580 as the master so I was using ETTL. I have a bunch of ebay triggers but when I have line of sight, I prefer using ETTL. No diffusers on any of the speedlites. I'll have the camera set on manual mode and underexpose the image by 1-2/3 stops.
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From: Waipahu HI; Phoenix AZ
Yeah, I know about line of sight with IR TTL.
I'll try
Experimented a bit with IR using the 580EX II and 430EX. Had them both for awhile, but wasn't motivated again until I read the book- Light, Science & Magic. I first tried the IR doing copy work of book covers... both strobes on either side at an angle to avoid hot spots... easy enough. It's so simple once you know how, but a head-scratcher when you go about it with no info.
Experimented with this bottle, employing information such as diffused light, reflected light, and "family of angles" read from the book. I did find that using the portable strobes is tricky because of no modeling light, so I quickly ditched the strobes and went out to buy compact fluorescents held by regular outdoor light holders (with the chrome "beauty dish"
). I'm getting a better understanding of lighting and the effects of it on different surfaces. Also learned that I need more $$$ for studio strobes 
as I want to try some other experiments.
Light on floor for the overdramatic blown highlight on the right of the bottle, side lighting for the rim highlight, and top lit.
Top lighting only.
I have ideas running through my head for the car though... like finding a dark spot and taking a side shot doing 3 flashes from the top/back, lighting the hood, top, and hatch to create rim light... sorta like what you see when you only do a backlight on a portrait. I've been thinking of picking up some booms just for this. Maybe have someone hold a pole while on a ladder for the center light.
BTW, it's weird how you start just moving stuff around just to see how the light and it's position and intensity affects the look of the object... when you're in a restaurant, or someplace... damn. Now I know I'm in too deep in this stuff.
I'll try
Experimented a bit with IR using the 580EX II and 430EX. Had them both for awhile, but wasn't motivated again until I read the book- Light, Science & Magic. I first tried the IR doing copy work of book covers... both strobes on either side at an angle to avoid hot spots... easy enough. It's so simple once you know how, but a head-scratcher when you go about it with no info.
Experimented with this bottle, employing information such as diffused light, reflected light, and "family of angles" read from the book. I did find that using the portable strobes is tricky because of no modeling light, so I quickly ditched the strobes and went out to buy compact fluorescents held by regular outdoor light holders (with the chrome "beauty dish"
). I'm getting a better understanding of lighting and the effects of it on different surfaces. Also learned that I need more $$$ for studio strobes as I want to try some other experiments.Light on floor for the overdramatic blown highlight on the right of the bottle, side lighting for the rim highlight, and top lit.
Top lighting only.
I have ideas running through my head for the car though... like finding a dark spot and taking a side shot doing 3 flashes from the top/back, lighting the hood, top, and hatch to create rim light... sorta like what you see when you only do a backlight on a portrait. I've been thinking of picking up some booms just for this. Maybe have someone hold a pole while on a ladder for the center light.
BTW, it's weird how you start just moving stuff around just to see how the light and it's position and intensity affects the look of the object... when you're in a restaurant, or someplace... damn. Now I know I'm in too deep in this stuff.
Last edited by ctwentytwo; Mar 31, 2008 at 09:08 PM.
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If you're looking at a budget set up for more powerful strobes, the Alien Bee B800 or B1600 is a good place the start. If you buy it used, the B800 is around $200-210, roughly.
The use of artificial lighting really separates the beginners from the semi-pro photographers. The above shots are nicely done so you're on your way.
The use of artificial lighting really separates the beginners from the semi-pro photographers. The above shots are nicely done so you're on your way.
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From: Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by ctwentytwo
Also learned that I need more $$$ for studio strobes as I want to try some other experiments.
as I want to try some other experiments.
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