Vdubn shoot
1st real night shooting, 1st ever parking garage shoot.
i was using full manual the whole time..
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2.

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7.

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10.

i learned alot... alot more work than i originally thought it would be. Light placement, avoid reflections. Just had some shake problems from pullig my hand off the camera on the tri-pod. I did not use the steady shot, as recommended by sony, by next time i might try it.
so let me have it........ i need to learn everything i can learn. Tips, links, advice. all is welcome
i was using full manual the whole time..
1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

i learned alot... alot more work than i originally thought it would be. Light placement, avoid reflections. Just had some shake problems from pullig my hand off the camera on the tri-pod. I did not use the steady shot, as recommended by sony, by next time i might try it.
so let me have it........ i need to learn everything i can learn. Tips, links, advice. all is welcome
1st real night shooting, 1st ever parking garage shoot.
i was using full manual the whole time..
i learned alot... alot more work than i originally thought it would be. Light placement, avoid reflections. Just had some shake problems from pullig my hand off the camera on the tri-pod. I did not use the steady shot, as recommended by sony, by next time i might try it.
so let me have it........ i need to learn everything i can learn. Tips, links, advice. all is welcome
i was using full manual the whole time..
i learned alot... alot more work than i originally thought it would be. Light placement, avoid reflections. Just had some shake problems from pullig my hand off the camera on the tri-pod. I did not use the steady shot, as recommended by sony, by next time i might try it.
so let me have it........ i need to learn everything i can learn. Tips, links, advice. all is welcome
Instead, use Aperture Priority (Av) to control your depth of field (blurring of foreground/background), which is the only artistic option you have for this situation anyway.
When you want a longer shutter speed for blurring of moving objects... or when you want to freeze a moving object... "when shutter speed is a priority", use Shutter Priority (Tv).
The reason people's results are all over the place IMO, is metering. For this situation, meter the red paint that is lit by the lights, and switch to spot meter. Then use exposure compensation to get the exact exposure you want. LEARN TO USE EXPOSURE COMPENSATION.
AND GET OFF FULL MANUAL.
As it is, most of the pics are underexposed. Some of the pics also were taken on the shadow side, which, unless you want a silhouette, is a bad idea.
The shadowed sides are reasons to look to a flash and triggers so you can place a light source to light the shadows.
YOU HAVE A LEARNING SITUATION HERE. Go back to the same place, and retake those shots to see if you can improve them.
The situation is tricky as you have a bright light on the ceiling, and dark rims. I would use spot meter and meter the light lit part of the paint and lock it with exposure lock. Recompose and do your focus... then release the shutter. You can also use the timer so that you don't shake the camera when taking your hand off. Review the image. Adjust exposure compensation as needed for your liking.
KEEP TAKING PICS.
Hope I didn't come across as harsh.
very nice although i cant see the wheels in the first couple shots. i learned a lot in a year from ctwentytwo also.. just looking at his pictures and listening to his advice.
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gonzalo_300zx
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Dec 18, 2015 04:14 PM



