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I went to the bigger turbos as my old turbos were blowing oil into the intake. the 3071R were the same money as replacing the cartridges on the stock (aps) ones.
my manifolds look fine. youre not the first example of seen of them cracking. hoping I don't have his issue in the near future. I know they don't flow that well, but for my needs I think they flow enough. IMHO the sweet spot for this car is in the 500-550 range. they are plenty enough for that.
watched the video in regards to the catch can. I was curious what they did with the pcv valve and then again what they did with the other ports... they deleted the pcv and capped the old fittings. appreciate the info.
I have a catch can in route off the pcv going back to the lower manifold. didn't touch the drivers side valve cover. I'll take a look and see if I want to change this
no problem ! ya I didn't have any problems with oil in my intake. It was nice and clean when I pulled it apart.
I agree with you 500-550 seems to be the sweet spot according to many but I have a motor that is capable of holding 1000 to the crank according to dynosty so i'd like to experience what it can do and I get bored easily lol. I know with the current setup I will have tons of fun as it will already be a big difference to what I have experienced !
I'm interested in running e85 but its hard to come by in my area. Theres a pump about 20 mins from where I live. For me to drive the car on that frequently would be impractical for me to fill up all the way over there all the time but I'm still thinking about it. At least now I can take advantage of flex fuel with the haltech. I know for the future setup I will definitely want to run e85. Anyone know if the walbros that come with the cjm twin setup are e85 compatible? I know I'll have to upgrade my injectors too. Can anyone chime in on their experience with e85 and what components you upgraded to?
I run e85 in my Evo. I have found the aem pumps to be the most reliable. If I were to go e85 on the z I would swap out the pumps for them.
my short block is a dynosty build. Very similar to yours though I have cp Pistons. I have a tiny bit of headwork with stock size valves and gtm turbo cams.
I see You are running the red springs in your actuators. I had those in previous, but spring pressure was a bit much for my liking. In colder temps I would see 14+psi just on spring pressure. I plan on running blue springs. I've been seeing 10psi on spring pressure with the car warm. I'd like to think I could pull 18, maybe up to 20 psi with the help of the boost solenoid. I want to make sure I'm not making a mistake with the spring choice. Very difficult to change them out once on the car.
I run e85 in my Evo. I have found the aem pumps to be the most reliable. If I were to go e85 on the z I would swap out the pumps for them.
my short block is a dynosty build. Very similar to yours though I have cp Pistons. I have a tiny bit of headwork with stock size valves and gtm turbo cams.
I see You are running the red springs in your actuators. I had those in previous, but spring pressure was a bit much for my liking. In colder temps I would see 14+psi just on spring pressure. I plan on running blue springs. I've been seeing 10psi on spring pressure with the car warm. I'd like to think I could pull 18, maybe up to 20 psi with the help of the boost solenoid. I want to make sure I'm not making a mistake with the spring choice. Very difficult to change them out once on the car.
Yes extremely difficult ! which is why I went straight for the red. I didn't want any problems holding high boost. So on the red your spring pressure was at 10 lbs to? I'm seeing 9lbs on mine and I was worried that there was something wrong because I thought they would be at 15 minimal but now that I see ur on 10 I'm less worried lol But you said they shoot up to 14 in the cold? that's quite a difference.
what are you on for engine management?
Would the aem pumps fit in the cjm hanger tho? I'm going to have a conversation with Hal to see if it is worth doing the switch to e85 as I currently stand.
On reds I would see around 12 most of the time, a few spikes here and there. In colder temps i would see 14, maybe 14.5 psi. Given my experience I want a 10 psi (mid 400s) low boost, 15 psi (500-550) mid level, and a high boost 18+(600+).
My car was making 550 @ 15.1 max boost previously. Not much room for error when spring pressure was damn near what my high boost was.
If I were you I'd check the diaphrams and ensure your preload is set properly
The aem is a drop in replacement. I had the 255 in my Evo previously. They might have a reverse polarity, but will likely fit without issue
On reds I would see around 12 most of the time, a few spikes here and there. In colder temps i would see 14, maybe 14.5 psi. Given my experience I want a 10 psi (mid 400s) low boost, 15 psi (500-550) mid level, and a high boost 18+(600+).
My car was making 550 @ 15.1 max boost previously. Not much room for error when spring pressure was damn near what my high boost was.
If I were you I'd check the diaphrams and ensure your preload is set properly
The aem is a drop in replacement. I had the 255 in my Evo previously. They might have a reverse polarity, but will likely fit without issue
Mine do not have diaphrams they are piston style. So why was ur max 15lbs? was that all you could push out of those turbos?
You have an updated version of the forge actuators?
Post a pic if you have one of them.
That's all I ran because that's all I really wanted out of it. The turbos probably could have been pushed a little further to maybe 17 psi for a other 20-40 hp, but I just want a good solid running car with good power. I made around 575 lbs of tq... I hardly ever turned the boost controller on (at the time hks fcon with evc ebc) I ran spring pressure 95% or more of the time.
My goal this go round is whatever I can make on pump gas. Id like to think I could break 600 with these turbos.
Here are some pics of my installation of the new turbos Drivers side mounted. Had to rebend actuator arm to fit new turbos wastegate arm New inconel turbo mounting studs Side by side Had to have the original banjo bolts fitted with a restrictor
nice. you really went all out with the hardware even.
I checked forge's site, those are what they show.... no diaphrams would be nice, but not sure it's worth dishing out $400 for a new set for me.
i got my Z1 silicone drain hoses yesterday. just waiting on my replacement diaphrams from forge and I will be ready for reinstall. my motor don't look as pretty as yours but it's what on the inside that counts
pretty much just about every single nut and bolt on the motor is new and every little bracket is powder coated . On the front timing cover they are all arp's to dress it up . The turbos and manifolds are ceramic coated. I like when things look nice and clean even if you cant see it I know whats done under there im a bit of a perfectionist.
I have one of their kits with the wilwood master...
I have everything back on the motor. took a little fiddling with the actuator arms to make them right, but now just waiting for help to set the motor back in.
I ended up putting the red springs in. I am not messing around with having boost issues on the top end. I would like a base pressure around 10 psi, but want stable boost up top more. if my base pressure is like what is was previously, I am looking at a base power of 500-525 hp, maybe even higher (@13-14 psi). I am scheduled for a retune 7/5, so I'll have to baby the car around for 2 months
i got impatient and didnt feel like waiting to waste my full tank of gas so i took out the sending unit and heres what i found
the sleeve around that hose disenegrated and clogged my fuel sock. The junk inside was actually squished up against the bottom of my pump when i pulled it out. Im hopeing this is my issue as i dont see anything else wrong visually. Im going to try to replace the sock and go from there as its my cheapest option
05-01-2017, 06:13 AM
