mesias

iTrader: (11)

Hi there,

Is anyone willing to loan, rent or sell a J-44716 tool? Is there any alternative to ensure proper torque reinstalling the crankshaft pulley after replacing the main front seal?

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

Engine in or out of the car?

Engine in the car just put it in gear and lock your E-Brake.

Out of engine wait until engine is in the car and do the previous steps :-)

mesias

iTrader: (11)

Motor is in the car... Auto tranny.

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

ohhhhh. Sorry man i'm not sure then mine is a 6 speed.

Atreyu'z 350

I have that tool. It works great.. Unfortunately, I think that tool would be your best bet since you have the 5AT because it will have zero flex/give while you re-torque that crank bolt.


- I'm curious. How did you loosen the bolt to begin with?

mesias

iTrader: (11)

I'm planing on tackle dismantling this weekend... hopefully an impact driver will do the trick. I'm also considering buying a OTC 4754 Universal Pulley Holder which could also help torquing back the bolt.

Have anyone tried holding the crankshaft pulley with the belts and locking pliers?

rancor

A universal pulley holder is your best option but i remember one person bending his in the process. You can use the belt and chain locking pliers but you risk damaging the rubber isolator in the crank pulley. I did the locking pliers option but I also may have gotten lucky with no damage so far. You will need some option to hold the crank still for both the removal and installation.

Atreyu'z 350

You could try an impact driver. It works for some, but not all. What year is your Z? Was it ever exposed to road salt and/or snow for a season or two? The reason I ask is because the rim of that bolt is more inclined to seize itself to the outside surface of the pulley when exposed to those conditions. I see that you're in Florida, and if your Z has spent all of it's life down there, you'll probably be able to get it off with an impact.. I removed my whole front clip just so I could fit an impact in there to remove the bolt. No go. So then I tried every unorthodox method with no luck. So I bought the tool.

zakmartin

I have the OTC 4754 and you'd have to put a LOT of torque on that thing to get it to bend. I'm not sure what year you have, but if it's a 2007, then you only need to re-tighten that bolt to 33 ft-lbs + 90 degrees, so I'm betting the OTC universal tool should work without any problems. Assuming you're going to replace the front oil seal and pulley bolt anyway, I'd just use an impact wrench to pull the bolt out and a torque wrench to put it back on.

mesias

iTrader: (11)

It's a 2004 G35, 85K miles in South Florida... no salt. I should be able to combine a couple of these methods to remove the bolt. I'll try posing some pics.

The price of the proper tool is ridiculous... the cheaper I found it was $165 + shipping. Similar tools for other brands cost around $30 bucks.

zakmartin

LOL! Compared to Volkswagen, Nissan's specialty tools are a downright bargain.

mesias

iTrader: (11)

The impact driver worked like a charm... at least for loosening the bolt. I spent more time setting up the puller for the pulley than removing the bolt. BTW, the radiator must be removed to fit the impact driver.

On the other hand, the front main seal is not what is leaking. The upper oil pan is leaking thru the rubber gasket at the front half moon. I guess I'll have to live with the oil puddle a bit longer.

mesias

iTrader: (11)

The OTC 4754 did the trick for installing back the pulley. I had to use longer bolts to grab the openings but it worked. The torque required was 35 lbs plus 60 - 65 degrees turn. Thanks all for your input.