Colorado maintenance Noob Questions
I'm up for hosting a mod day at my house. Warning though I don't have the tools/ garage like Kevin's.
I do have the tools for basic stuff: oil changes, brakes, minor upgrades. Just have to give the wife a heads up.
I do have the tools for basic stuff: oil changes, brakes, minor upgrades. Just have to give the wife a heads up.
Originally Posted by funkymonkey1111
gary,
sorry, i wasn't clear.
the point, on some level, of me/us working on these brakes at robert's would be for me to learn, or be told, how to do the pad removal, caliper removal, etc. While it may look pretty easy from the pics online, I was hoping for a helpful atmosphere with the local Z folks to do this. So, if i have to figure out how to take the calipers off to get the rotors resurfaced, then reassemble the whole thing, then there's not a huge point in going down to robert's to do it. (other than working on the diff and trans. fluid, which is also fine).
i'm not trying to be snotty, but like i said, just trying to plan it all out so i can learn, and not be a significant pain in the **** to anyone else in the process.
sorry, i wasn't clear.
the point, on some level, of me/us working on these brakes at robert's would be for me to learn, or be told, how to do the pad removal, caliper removal, etc. While it may look pretty easy from the pics online, I was hoping for a helpful atmosphere with the local Z folks to do this. So, if i have to figure out how to take the calipers off to get the rotors resurfaced, then reassemble the whole thing, then there's not a huge point in going down to robert's to do it. (other than working on the diff and trans. fluid, which is also fine).
i'm not trying to be snotty, but like i said, just trying to plan it all out so i can learn, and not be a significant pain in the **** to anyone else in the process.
The steps required to removed the caliper in order to remove the rotor are completely independent of any of the steps required to replace the lines, bleed the fluid, or change the pads, so there's not really any 'double work' involved in doing some of these steps at different times.
Additionally, you could leave it to the shop that resurfaces your rotors to remove them from the car...just drive the car in and wait. That would cost significantly more, and take longer, but it's an option.
Since you say that your rotors weren't chewed up or excessively worn, you could always do everything except turning the rotors, and possibly plan to do those at a slightly later time.
Originally Posted by Robert_K
I'm up for hosting a mod day at my house. Warning though I don't have the tools/ garage like Kevin's.
I do have the tools for basic stuff: oil changes, brakes, minor upgrades. Just have to give the wife a heads up. 
I do have the tools for basic stuff: oil changes, brakes, minor upgrades. Just have to give the wife a heads up. (If it helps, you can tell the wife that brake bleeding is good 'couple bonding' time. My wife has the process down to a science!)
Oh no problem guys! LOL We just need to work on a date. I have every other day off so just let me know what weekend. I think the Dyno Day on the 28th is going to fall through but was thinking of doing a Cripple Creek run or going to the Auto-X at the World Arena instead. We could possibly do the 22nd but that a football Sunday and I know some people can't miss there crappy Broncos.
Originally Posted by funkymonkey1111
Thanks!
Here's a question: how much more work would it be to install a big brake kit? I mean, if you are going to remove the brake lines, and the pads, and rotors, it shouldbe that much more to put in new calipers and new rotors rather than the old stuff?
My brake knowledge is limited, which is kind of funny. I've done a whole lot of work on my engine (by myself), but the only thing I have ever done on brakes is change the pads, so I'm kind of clueless there.
Dave
My brake knowledge is limited, which is kind of funny. I've done a whole lot of work on my engine (by myself), but the only thing I have ever done on brakes is change the pads, so I'm kind of clueless there.
Dave
I don't think it would be too hard. I replaced everything but my caliper which has to come off since you're replacing the rotor. I'm sure its a 2-3hr job at most for all fours.
The only additional steps for a BBK install beyond what's mentioned above are trimming the dust shield to accomodate the larger rotors, and installing the caliper mounting bracket to accept the new caliper (assuming you're installing an aftermarket kit, as the Track/G Brembos don't require an adapter bracket).
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 8,624
Likes: 1,393
From: Aurora, Colorado
OK guys- I'm back from Kansas. Caught this thread and see that most of the questions have been well covered by others (particularly GaryM05). One point to clarify is having your rotors turned. Most dedicated machine shops can easily do this for around $30-40 and you are guaranteed to get back a rotor with a fresh, trued surface for use with your new pads. This in turn allows the pad material to be evenly distributed over the rotor surface and reduces juddering or vibration.
I don't always have my rotors turned either, but when using a expensive new pad, it's an easy way to ensure maximum brake efficiency. BTW- while I recommended the GT-Sport pad last spring, I've heard that Cobalt Friction is currently low on product (while they get ready to launch a NEW improved line of pad materials). Be sure to call (toll-free #) and ask for Andy Lim (company principal) to be sure they actually have the pads in stock. Tell him I sent you and ask if he could swing any discount...
Hope that helps!
I don't always have my rotors turned either, but when using a expensive new pad, it's an easy way to ensure maximum brake efficiency. BTW- while I recommended the GT-Sport pad last spring, I've heard that Cobalt Friction is currently low on product (while they get ready to launch a NEW improved line of pad materials). Be sure to call (toll-free #) and ask for Andy Lim (company principal) to be sure they actually have the pads in stock. Tell him I sent you and ask if he could swing any discount...
Hope that helps!
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 8,624
Likes: 1,393
From: Aurora, Colorado
I used Havana Machine since it's in my neighborhood, but I'd also recommend your local NAPA store (they send it to their centralized machine shop) as well.
Dave,
Andy said they are out of those pads. the new ones should be out before the end of the year, though.
While i'm happy to explore these pads for the track use (and maybe will become proficient on the brakes to trade them out before a track day) i'm really in need of pads just for daily use now (i'm starting to get a squeal, and i've got more than 35K miles on them).
So, do you have any plan B suggestions? I could just order the stage one kit from stoptech and get the axxis pads, or i can piece-meal out a set and match them up with the stoptech SS lines.
Andy said they are out of those pads. the new ones should be out before the end of the year, though.
While i'm happy to explore these pads for the track use (and maybe will become proficient on the brakes to trade them out before a track day) i'm really in need of pads just for daily use now (i'm starting to get a squeal, and i've got more than 35K miles on them).
So, do you have any plan B suggestions? I could just order the stage one kit from stoptech and get the axxis pads, or i can piece-meal out a set and match them up with the stoptech SS lines.
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 8,624
Likes: 1,393
From: Aurora, Colorado
You have quite a few Plan B options to consider: Hawk HP+, Porterfield R4, Carbotech, etc. But seeing as I lack real world experince with the OEM brakes, I'd suggest PM'ing GaryM05 for his recommendations. He's been through a LOT of those products before he upgraded to a BBK and can offer an educated opinion.
I'd also compare prices on-line and cruise the classified board here for the best possible deal!
I'd also compare prices on-line and cruise the classified board here for the best possible deal!







