Exhaust, Brakes and Suspension - what next?
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Exhaust, Brakes and Suspension - what next?
In the last few days I ordered (for a 2007 Touring):
- HKS exhuast with high flow cats
- Nismo suspension
- Eibach adjustable sways
- K&N drop in filters
- Wilwood 6 piston BBK with slotted rotors, braided lines and Hawk track pads
- A few minor interior mods
I could probably spend about another $1000 on it and am wondering what to do next. I sorta don't want to do rims, I actually love the look of the stock rims. I'm doing a NASA HPDE event mid July so I may wait until after that to see what I want next. In the mean time any suggestions, anything I'm missing? From what I'm reading CAI on the HR motor is great already so that's not a really cost effective mod.
Thanks guys,
-Ross
- HKS exhuast with high flow cats
- Nismo suspension
- Eibach adjustable sways
- K&N drop in filters
- Wilwood 6 piston BBK with slotted rotors, braided lines and Hawk track pads
- A few minor interior mods
I could probably spend about another $1000 on it and am wondering what to do next. I sorta don't want to do rims, I actually love the look of the stock rims. I'm doing a NASA HPDE event mid July so I may wait until after that to see what I want next. In the mean time any suggestions, anything I'm missing? From what I'm reading CAI on the HR motor is great already so that's not a really cost effective mod.
Thanks guys,
-Ross
i say, exterior look/interior look mods are always good, but for altitude reasons forced induction is the way to go for power. I say either do looks mods or save your money for some type of forced induction if you want power. Looks like a good list to me!
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That's quite a list of new parts!!! Wheels and tires would be my next suggestion, but since you mentioned that you don't want to change out the wheels, then I would suggest putting all of your new purchases on the car and running it at the NASA weekend at Pueblo with an eye towards specifically evaluating how it runs with all of the upgrades, and seeing if you feel there are any weaknesses that need to be addressed at that point. Then, decide where to go from there.
You might find (like others have) that you want more alignment adjustability than the car has in stock form in order to get full use out of your tires, especially after putting on the Nismo suspension and Eibach swaybars. If you find that to be the case, there are several good options for front control arms and rear camber arms or camber/toe eccentric bolts that could easily be had with your stated $1000 remaining budget.
Like others have said, NA power mods on this car are typically a money-waster, beyond easy things like plenum spacers, exhaust, etc.
Your car is going to be so much different to drive with the upgraded suspension and brakes that I really think you'll be pleased with how it drives, and it might make sense to see how it runs with all of the new stuff before deciding what else to put on it.
You might find (like others have) that you want more alignment adjustability than the car has in stock form in order to get full use out of your tires, especially after putting on the Nismo suspension and Eibach swaybars. If you find that to be the case, there are several good options for front control arms and rear camber arms or camber/toe eccentric bolts that could easily be had with your stated $1000 remaining budget.
Like others have said, NA power mods on this car are typically a money-waster, beyond easy things like plenum spacers, exhaust, etc.
Your car is going to be so much different to drive with the upgraded suspension and brakes that I really think you'll be pleased with how it drives, and it might make sense to see how it runs with all of the new stuff before deciding what else to put on it.
Originally Posted by GaryM05
That's quite a list of new parts!!! Wheels and tires would be my next suggestion, but since you mentioned that you don't want to change out the wheels, then I would suggest putting all of your new purchases on the car and running it at the NASA weekend at Pueblo with an eye towards specifically evaluating how it runs with all of the upgrades, and seeing if you feel there are any weaknesses that need to be addressed at that point. Then, decide where to go from there.
You might find (like others have) that you want more alignment adjustability than the car has in stock form in order to get full use out of your tires, especially after putting on the Nismo suspension and Eibach swaybars. If you find that to be the case, there are several good options for front control arms and rear camber arms or camber/toe eccentric bolts that could easily be had with your stated $1000 remaining budget.
Like others have said, NA power mods on this car are typically a money-waster, beyond easy things like plenum spacers, exhaust, etc.
Your car is going to be so much different to drive with the upgraded suspension and brakes that I really think you'll be pleased with how it drives, and it might make sense to see how it runs with all of the new stuff before deciding what else to put on it.
You might find (like others have) that you want more alignment adjustability than the car has in stock form in order to get full use out of your tires, especially after putting on the Nismo suspension and Eibach swaybars. If you find that to be the case, there are several good options for front control arms and rear camber arms or camber/toe eccentric bolts that could easily be had with your stated $1000 remaining budget.
Like others have said, NA power mods on this car are typically a money-waster, beyond easy things like plenum spacers, exhaust, etc.
Your car is going to be so much different to drive with the upgraded suspension and brakes that I really think you'll be pleased with how it drives, and it might make sense to see how it runs with all of the new stuff before deciding what else to put on it.
What are the dates in July?
Originally Posted by bamyi
+1. Or you can spend the money on safety upgrades like seat belts, racing seats, helmet, tunning, roll cage, corner balancing your car, etc.
About the only thing you can do is install a new seat. otherwise, you may not pass HPDE tech, which would be a serious bummer.
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After you trash your street tires you'll definitely be looking for a second set of rims and R compound tires. I'm surprised nobody mentioned this, it's the single best mod you can do for your car - next to brakes - if you plan to track it more than once or twice a year.
Joel is right, except.....if you don't have a decent set of brakes, you will overdrive the brakes if you have R-Comps. However, I notice you have a nice Wilwood setup, so you should be fine there.
Second problem is that, I have found, R-Comps will hide a lot of driving errors. In other words, they will let you get away with making mistakes and not even show it. You won't know you are making mistakes, is what I am trying to say, and you will learn bad habits.
If you are already a pretty experienced track junkie, then this won't be a problem, but I would suggest at least doing one or two weekends on your streets before you drop the bucks on a set of wheels and R-Comps.
Second problem is that, I have found, R-Comps will hide a lot of driving errors. In other words, they will let you get away with making mistakes and not even show it. You won't know you are making mistakes, is what I am trying to say, and you will learn bad habits.
If you are already a pretty experienced track junkie, then this won't be a problem, but I would suggest at least doing one or two weekends on your streets before you drop the bucks on a set of wheels and R-Comps.
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Originally Posted by bamyi
+1. Or you can spend the money on safety upgrades like seat belts, racing seats, helmet, tunning, roll cage, corner balancing your car, etc.
What are the dates in July?
What are the dates in July?
As I alluded to earlier, that won't pass NASA HPDE/TT tech, if that matters to you.
Additionally, riding around with unpadded metal in your car is actually slightly more dangerous (of course, if you pad it well, that point is moot)
Additionally, riding around with unpadded metal in your car is actually slightly more dangerous (of course, if you pad it well, that point is moot)
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Originally Posted by Dave 90TT
As I alluded to earlier, that won't pass NASA HPDE/TT tech, if that matters to you.
Additionally, riding around with unpadded metal in your car is actually slightly more dangerous (of course, if you pad it well, that point is moot)
Additionally, riding around with unpadded metal in your car is actually slightly more dangerous (of course, if you pad it well, that point is moot)
Or do you mean the lightening? Could just go with CF parts? Gets pricey though.
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Weight reduction is not the best idea in my opinion. I'm assuming you like AC in the Summer and listening to your favorite CD while cruising. It's nice to have a passenger seat for your honey or track buddy (you'll need one for check-rides in NASA too). And I realize this is also personal preference, but CF is not that attractive and doesn't really save you much in a street car - it's just bling for those who think it looks nice.
If weight reduction is important to you than do the following (and keep your black beauty in-tact). Remove the floor mats, spare tire, radar detector and any other loose items in your Z that you don't need (REQUIRED anyway). Run only a half-tank of fuel and keep reserves in the paddock. If you have a similar stature as me, loose 20lbs!
If weight reduction is important to you than do the following (and keep your black beauty in-tact). Remove the floor mats, spare tire, radar detector and any other loose items in your Z that you don't need (REQUIRED anyway). Run only a half-tank of fuel and keep reserves in the paddock. If you have a similar stature as me, loose 20lbs!
Originally Posted by Amarao
What won't? A 4 point harness? I'd never suggest doing a rollcage on a street car.
Or do you mean the lightening? Could just go with CF parts? Gets pricey though.
Or do you mean the lightening? Could just go with CF parts? Gets pricey though.
As for lightening, unless you are building a track-only car, it's not really worth it, as Joel said. Enjoy the creature comforts of a nicely appointed street car that also sidelines as a decent track car (whether it's your Lotus, or your G35)
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Originally Posted by Dave 90TT
With the harness bar, you still have exposed metal (unless, like I mentioned, it is padded) Either way, I don't think it would pass a NASA safety inspection, for the reasons I mentioned earlier.
As for lightening, unless you are building a track-only car, it's not really worth it, as Joel said. Enjoy the creature comforts of a nicely appointed street car that also sidelines as a decent track car (whether it's your Lotus, or your G35)
As for lightening, unless you are building a track-only car, it's not really worth it, as Joel said. Enjoy the creature comforts of a nicely appointed street car that also sidelines as a decent track car (whether it's your Lotus, or your G35)
As for losing weight, I can drop a good 20lbs off the car with a new exhaust and a braille battery. It doesn't seem like much but it all adds up in the end and I didn't lose anything for it. Obviously the battery is a bad idea if you're running a large stereo though.
And yes Joel, my fat *** could stand to lose 20lbs. lol
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Hey Ross,
I was doing some quick calcs for you based on the NASA TT regulations (ok, I'm interested too if you're to be my potential competition).
As I recall, your Z is a 2007 Enthusiast, right? If so, your base class is still TTC, but you take an additional 7 points from the get-go (I'm assuming that is because of the higher HP engine). With the mods you've mentioned above you'll be at the top of the TTC class as far as competitive equipment. If you go beyond 20 points in mods then you'll be in the next class and maybe not as competitive. From what I can see, this is how you would end up right now.
+7 2007 Enth.
+7 Suspension Mods.
+2 Sway Bars
+2 BBK
----------
+18 Total
I'm relatively new to the classification stuff, so I would refer to Gary or Dave to double check the numbers. I think you could add a plenum spacer for only +2 and that would have you maxed out for the TTC class. IF you decide to get R Compund tires then you'll be looking at another +7 or +10 depending on the specific tire you choose. This would bump you up into the next TT class. You've probably already done this research, but if not, here are the links you should reference.
http://www.nasa-tt.com/
http://www.nasa-tt.com//Rules <--Check out page 6 of the 'Time Trials Classification Form' for NO POINTS modifications!
My FINAL mod recommendation is simple and free - develop the nut behind the steering wheel.
See you in a few weeks if not sooner!
Joel
I was doing some quick calcs for you based on the NASA TT regulations (ok, I'm interested too if you're to be my potential competition).
As I recall, your Z is a 2007 Enthusiast, right? If so, your base class is still TTC, but you take an additional 7 points from the get-go (I'm assuming that is because of the higher HP engine). With the mods you've mentioned above you'll be at the top of the TTC class as far as competitive equipment. If you go beyond 20 points in mods then you'll be in the next class and maybe not as competitive. From what I can see, this is how you would end up right now.
+7 2007 Enth.
+7 Suspension Mods.
+2 Sway Bars
+2 BBK
----------
+18 Total
I'm relatively new to the classification stuff, so I would refer to Gary or Dave to double check the numbers. I think you could add a plenum spacer for only +2 and that would have you maxed out for the TTC class. IF you decide to get R Compund tires then you'll be looking at another +7 or +10 depending on the specific tire you choose. This would bump you up into the next TT class. You've probably already done this research, but if not, here are the links you should reference.
http://www.nasa-tt.com/
http://www.nasa-tt.com//Rules <--Check out page 6 of the 'Time Trials Classification Form' for NO POINTS modifications!
My FINAL mod recommendation is simple and free - develop the nut behind the steering wheel.
See you in a few weeks if not sooner!
Joel
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Guys,
Thanks for all the great information. A few points I totally agree with (not sure who said what)
- Drive the NASA event in July and get a feel for my "new" car. Last time I was there I hated the brakes, that shouldn't be an issue this time. I can't wait to see how she feels
- Put money into the "nut" behind the wheel. Again couldn't agree more, I've already done a 2 day Lotus school and am doing a 2 day advanced Corvette racing school in late October. No question that upgrading me is a good thing.
- Ligthening: I do take out my spare, mats, etc, etc. I take my radar dector but leave it in the paddocks. I pretty thin at 150lbs so I've already got a weight advantage on most of you guys as it is!! And yeah, not giving up my AC and stereo :-)
- Rims/R-Comp: I bid on some Nismo rims on eBay, I'll only get them if they are a steal. Then I'd upgrade to R-Comps but I don't see me doing that this year. Plus I don't want to have to get a trailer for my tires, just too much to deal with right now.
- My Z is the 07 Touring, not the enthusiast. I'll look into the class stuff soon, I'm driving HPDE3 that weekend since it's my first NASA event. I definitely don't want to be the bottom of any group so need to be careful that I go too far.
- Harness: I did think of this too as being thinner I do tend to slide around a lot. I generally move my seat all the way back, ****** the seat belt then move forward until I can barely breath. That holds me pretty well but not like a harness would. This is my street car so I don't want to get into roll cages, etc, etc.
- Reflash: I've been doing a lot of reading about this and am just not sure I want to go this route. $600 seems pretty damned pricey, do you really think I'd see the gains from it? I've also read about the factory reset procedure is that something I should give a try?
I really think I'm going to be pleased with her after the upgrades, the only things I didn't like before were brakes and the exhaust note. I only did the suspension because I got it used for a steal (from the same guy I'm getting the exhaust from) and just couldn't resist.
I'm going to be heading down to Pueblo on Friday 7/11 to get a few sessions in (it's an open test and tune day) then I'll be driving with NASA both Saturday and Sunday. I'll be sure to look you guys up, should be a great weekend.
-Ross
Thanks for all the great information. A few points I totally agree with (not sure who said what)
- Drive the NASA event in July and get a feel for my "new" car. Last time I was there I hated the brakes, that shouldn't be an issue this time. I can't wait to see how she feels
- Put money into the "nut" behind the wheel. Again couldn't agree more, I've already done a 2 day Lotus school and am doing a 2 day advanced Corvette racing school in late October. No question that upgrading me is a good thing.
- Ligthening: I do take out my spare, mats, etc, etc. I take my radar dector but leave it in the paddocks. I pretty thin at 150lbs so I've already got a weight advantage on most of you guys as it is!! And yeah, not giving up my AC and stereo :-)
- Rims/R-Comp: I bid on some Nismo rims on eBay, I'll only get them if they are a steal. Then I'd upgrade to R-Comps but I don't see me doing that this year. Plus I don't want to have to get a trailer for my tires, just too much to deal with right now.
- My Z is the 07 Touring, not the enthusiast. I'll look into the class stuff soon, I'm driving HPDE3 that weekend since it's my first NASA event. I definitely don't want to be the bottom of any group so need to be careful that I go too far.
- Harness: I did think of this too as being thinner I do tend to slide around a lot. I generally move my seat all the way back, ****** the seat belt then move forward until I can barely breath. That holds me pretty well but not like a harness would. This is my street car so I don't want to get into roll cages, etc, etc.
- Reflash: I've been doing a lot of reading about this and am just not sure I want to go this route. $600 seems pretty damned pricey, do you really think I'd see the gains from it? I've also read about the factory reset procedure is that something I should give a try?
I really think I'm going to be pleased with her after the upgrades, the only things I didn't like before were brakes and the exhaust note. I only did the suspension because I got it used for a steal (from the same guy I'm getting the exhaust from) and just couldn't resist.
I'm going to be heading down to Pueblo on Friday 7/11 to get a few sessions in (it's an open test and tune day) then I'll be driving with NASA both Saturday and Sunday. I'll be sure to look you guys up, should be a great weekend.
-Ross
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You've got the right attitude Ross! Can't wait to meet you and to see how you like your new mods. I'd be glad to let you ride shotgun with me in Group 4 and would like to ride with you at some point if you're willing. We, Dave (Dave 90TT) and Gary (GaryM05), do that on occasion to trade observations on driving style and such. In fact, I think Dave would agree that the extra seat time was an excellent way for us to learn Miller Motor Sports Park.
I know I said I gave you my final thoughts on mods, but I do have a few thoughts regarding your previous post.
01 - NASA just merged with Nostalgia Racing and now has a surplus of wireless transponders for sale ($250). They are the older body style and you would have to purchase a charger separately form AMB (about $45). The unit I purchased has a 6 day battery charge which is great - others are only getting about 3 days charge. I prefer the new body style, but I wasn't about to pay $450 for one. A single season of renting transponders would just about pay for a used one from NASA. Just a thought. If you're serious, contact Dave Balinget, NASA Rockymountain Regional Director. dave at nasarockymountain.com
02 - In' lieu of doing a $600 reflash, try the manual factory reset first. I realize these are not the same thing, but I have noticed a slight performance gain by doing a factory reset, especially if I've been doing a lot of Sunday-driving around town. If you drive like a grandma for an extended period of time the ECU starts to change engine settings because it thinks you're a pansy! You don't want that.
I know I said I gave you my final thoughts on mods, but I do have a few thoughts regarding your previous post.
01 - NASA just merged with Nostalgia Racing and now has a surplus of wireless transponders for sale ($250). They are the older body style and you would have to purchase a charger separately form AMB (about $45). The unit I purchased has a 6 day battery charge which is great - others are only getting about 3 days charge. I prefer the new body style, but I wasn't about to pay $450 for one. A single season of renting transponders would just about pay for a used one from NASA. Just a thought. If you're serious, contact Dave Balinget, NASA Rockymountain Regional Director. dave at nasarockymountain.com
02 - In' lieu of doing a $600 reflash, try the manual factory reset first. I realize these are not the same thing, but I have noticed a slight performance gain by doing a factory reset, especially if I've been doing a lot of Sunday-driving around town. If you drive like a grandma for an extended period of time the ECU starts to change engine settings because it thinks you're a pansy! You don't want that.