Upcoming K-Town Z/G meet info - Check Here!
Sponsor
Shine Auto Project
Shine Auto Project
iTrader: (89)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: osaka ~ los angeles[213]
Posts: 11,517
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
im in love with this hood but wow i am poor
https://my350z.com/forum/body-exterior/346205-new-mastergrade-ams-hood-pre-sale.html
https://my350z.com/forum/body-exterior/346205-new-mastergrade-ams-hood-pre-sale.html
Registered User
iTrader: (51)
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Boneout JZA80
CHRIS (350) FTL
![](https://my350z.com/forum/images/ranks/premier.gif)
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: the gay area, ca (I miss LA)
Posts: 4,482
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Boneout JZA80
![Big Grin](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Registered User
iTrader: (51)
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ok so I got my car corner-balanced by Darin at West End, and I actually prefer the default settings better lol Yea car turns in quicker and steering response is better but overall it's not as flat when cornering..damn wtf car's supposed to feel BETTER not softer..
Registered User
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: so. cali
Posts: 1,876
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by gsazabi
Ok so I got my car corner-balanced by Darin at West End, and I actually prefer the default settings better lol Yea car turns in quicker and steering response is better but overall it's not as flat when cornering..damn wtf car's supposed to feel BETTER not softer..
Registered User
iTrader: (51)
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by IP Gthreefive
gimme a ride~!!!!!!
Registered User
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: so. cali
Posts: 1,876
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by gsazabi
Fo sho~ But yea do you have any idea why my damper setting **** clicks 39 times when it's only 30 way adjustable? lol I can REALLY use some TEAS on my Zeals! lol
Anyways i need a ride in your Zeal 350Z..... ENDLESS FTMFW~!!!
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 491
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by gsazabi
Ok so I got my car corner-balanced by Darin at West End, and I actually prefer the default settings better lol Yea car turns in quicker and steering response is better but overall it's not as flat when cornering..damn wtf car's supposed to feel BETTER not softer..
If your spring rates are much too high and your sway bars are sized incorrectly your tires will give out dependent on the surface or regardless. And if there's a lot of dips and bumps on the track surface you'll skip across because there is very little suspension compression losing traction, control, speed, and ultimately time.
You have to come to a compromise and it all comes down to experience and tuning. Many think that getting high dollar jdm coilovers with stupidly high spring rates and valving is the answer on a mid-level hp car... It isn't. There has to be research done with the owner's particular setup and car. If the car is heavy with super stiff suspension meant for a lighter car you'll over work the tires and ultimately the car will drive like **** probably causing it to push.
In Japan a majority of the track surfaces are like glass, and most of those cars are lightened to an acceptable race weight where those high rates and valving along with race compound tires work well. Unfortunately we are in the U.S. where some track surfaces are comparable to the streets of L.A. and what many have found on mid-level power cars (200-300hp) that are in excess of 3000lbs a slightly softer rate along with stiffer bars (to reduce body roll) seem to work in certain cars. Of course this setup isn't for everyone, every car is different. And I highly doubt anyone in this thread is an experienced enough driver to feel the slight differences in dampening changes, or tire pressure changes or whatever to make a educated call to make adjustments. But, it takes time and experience to figure out.
Registered User
iTrader: (51)
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Mike@JTuned
Because the surface of a track is a NIGHT AND DAY difference to the street. Your dampers have to work with your spring rates, your spring rates have to work with your sway bars, your sway bars have to work with your tires, your tires have to work with your alignment (Camber, caster, and Toe) and all that have to work with the chassis for everything to be effective.
If your spring rates are much too high and your sway bars are sized incorrectly your tires will give out dependent on the surface or regardless. And if there's a lot of dips and bumps on the track surface you'll skip across because there is very little suspension compression losing traction, control, speed, and ultimately time.
You have to come to a compromise and it all comes down to experience and tuning. Many think that getting high dollar jdm coilovers with stupidly high spring rates and valving is the answer on a mid-level hp car... It isn't. There has to be research done with the owner's particular setup and car. If the car is heavy with super stiff suspension meant for a lighter car you'll over work the tires and ultimately the car will drive like **** probably causing it to push.
In Japan a majority of the track surfaces are like glass, and most of those cars are lightened to an acceptable race weight where those high rates and valving along with race compound tires work well. Unfortunately we are in the U.S. where some track surfaces are comparable to the streets of L.A. and what many have found on mid-level power cars (200-300hp) that are in excess of 3000lbs a slightly softer rate along with stiffer bars (to reduce body roll) seem to work in certain cars. Of course this setup isn't for everyone, every car is different. And I highly doubt anyone in this thread is an experienced enough driver to feel the slight differences in dampening changes, or tire pressure changes or whatever to make a educated call to make adjustments. But, it takes time and experience to figure out.
If your spring rates are much too high and your sway bars are sized incorrectly your tires will give out dependent on the surface or regardless. And if there's a lot of dips and bumps on the track surface you'll skip across because there is very little suspension compression losing traction, control, speed, and ultimately time.
You have to come to a compromise and it all comes down to experience and tuning. Many think that getting high dollar jdm coilovers with stupidly high spring rates and valving is the answer on a mid-level hp car... It isn't. There has to be research done with the owner's particular setup and car. If the car is heavy with super stiff suspension meant for a lighter car you'll over work the tires and ultimately the car will drive like **** probably causing it to push.
In Japan a majority of the track surfaces are like glass, and most of those cars are lightened to an acceptable race weight where those high rates and valving along with race compound tires work well. Unfortunately we are in the U.S. where some track surfaces are comparable to the streets of L.A. and what many have found on mid-level power cars (200-300hp) that are in excess of 3000lbs a slightly softer rate along with stiffer bars (to reduce body roll) seem to work in certain cars. Of course this setup isn't for everyone, every car is different. And I highly doubt anyone in this thread is an experienced enough driver to feel the slight differences in dampening changes, or tire pressure changes or whatever to make a educated call to make adjustments. But, it takes time and experience to figure out.
How should I set up about damper settings if I want sharp turn-in while minimizing Z's natural slight understeer in STREET settings? I pretty much figures out what settings I would like to stick with on the track, but on the street I'm still having tough time what setup is right for me.
Banned for NON PAYMENT
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: 626
Posts: 4,368
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by gimpster621
...not something id like to admit though
Registered User
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: so. cali
Posts: 1,876
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by gsazabi
Damn Mike thanks for the AWESOME reply. You're like Yoda when it comes to car stuff!
How should I set up about damper settings if I want sharp turn-in while minimizing Z's natural slight understeer in STREET settings? I pretty much figures out what settings I would like to stick with on the track, but on the street I'm still having tough time what setup is right for me.
How should I set up about damper settings if I want sharp turn-in while minimizing Z's natural slight understeer in STREET settings? I pretty much figures out what settings I would like to stick with on the track, but on the street I'm still having tough time what setup is right for me.
Registered User
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Good Morning Ktown!!! imma call in a reservation today at 3pm for the kbbq on saturday... id like to know the final head count... Come on guys, its been a long long time since we've met up... everyone come on out and chill.
![Cool](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/cool.gif)