its just my opinion. im not in to the car audio thing. thats all. carry on.

 

i also noticed my car ran somewhat smoother with this upgrade.

is 0 gauge really needed though? LOL

 

no 0 guage is not really needed, you can get buy with 2 guage, if your going to do it you mind as well do 0guage so you wont upgrade later

 

they said they dont do it! danm, lol.

oh well anyone else have a location???????

 

no shops in your area do it?... Srsly? Dude I think your going to have to DIY... I'm basically half way done with mine... I bought an Optima so I put a new 0 gauge ground, I did the "engine ground kit"... So all I got left to do is the 0-gauge from the alt to +12... That seems like it's going to be the hardest part... I'll snap some pics and send them to you when I do it...

 

sweet thanks bro.
i know of one shop that will do it but they want me to take my own kit and charge me by the hour, it doesnt save me any money, i was hoping to just buy the wire, fuse box, and get new battery terminals while im at it .

oh well i guess im going to have to make my lazzzy a*% do it unless i pay


in for pics sdZ33, just post them in here, thank you

 

Hey man whats going on. Im a South bay resident lol
By any chance do you know where in San Diego I can get the big 3 upgrade done? Im tired of my stinger digital hybrid capacitor making a constant beep noise when I play my system. I do not know why it makes that beep noise.. Is it charging? But I want the big 3 upgrade so I ditch it. Your help is appreciated. Thanks

 

 

If you run an amp over 600 watts, it is probably mandatory. I am talking about an amp that Crutchfield or Car Audio Magazine rates as 600+RMS. Your electrical system powers your ECU that drive an electronic coil pack to your spark plugs. These plugs are gaped within .002 so combustion happens correctly. A system that dims your lights or moves your volt gauge could cause poor ignition & result in pinging or detonation. Pinging and detonation ruin motors. You run a big system, I would take this upgrade seriously. All the same gauge wire. Single 0 wire is big but I am doing this & I clearly expect it to stop the dimming & better spark. I am an aircraft mechanic, worked on F-16's, Honeywell Aerospace, Eaton & was QA for US Airways fuel system avionics.

 

This thread hurts my brain

 

if you are interested in doing this, measure what you need and go to a welding supply store and get 1/0 (regular zero gauge) get the copper looking terminals you need from them. be mindful of the size terminals you get as some will fit around bigger bolts etc depending on the end size of the terminal. welding supply stores will even have the crimping machine if you do not want to do it yourself. i actually got my 0 gauge from JK Electronics in Westminster CA...they sell the same welding cable as the welding supply stores but they also carried red, not just black. used red for power and black for ground

you can get a manual crimp tool from amazon for around 20 or so bucks (JK Electronics had this tool for me as well) and you get can welding cable online for cheaper too. it's plenty flexible; as long as it's high strand it is essentially the same or better than high grade 0 gauge OFC audio cable.

i upgraded the ground and power wires on my beater, haven't done the alternator one yet but on a little 4 banger saturn i have no headlight dimming with 1100+ watts at nearly full blast to my 12w7. i also did 8 gauge from my amp to my sub directly; it's a custom ported enclosure and i just have the wire routed straight in through a drilled hole. i used epoxy resin to seal around the 8 gauge wire. i think it's way better than most of the cheaply made box terminal things you see, and i know my sub is getting all the power.