Top Speed PRO-1 coilovers $560. w/ FREE SHIPPING!
Well guys. I have had mine installed for a few months now. I can say they feel great and perform like I thought they would. Keep in mind I do not do any track days. However I am curious if anyone else is having issues with their rears making a clunking noise? And before anyone asks I am running true coilover setup and they are installed correctly. But the rears are extremly loud. Anyone else with this issue?
Post-mortem on TopSpeed Pro-1 MDU's:
It took Entaille(Nick) and I about 11 hours to do the coilover installs along with sways, end links, and camber arms. Bear in mind, neither one of us had ever done any of this before, we did it all with forum guides, pictures, and beer.
No power tools, though. Never again without power tools.
Even after measuring a length decrease of 1" from the OEM struts, I managed to raise the front slightly. The rear strut length was decreased 1 3/8" under OEM length, and dropped the rear end unevenly about 3/4". Front alignment seems fine, but that's probably because I didn't dial in enough drop. Negative rear camber is noticeable, but will be fixed. Too tired to care at this point... the shop will sort it out for me on Monday when they do an alignment.
Regarding the rear assembly: put on your smart hat when you're assembling them. Remove the rubber washers from the unused spring bucket adapter pieces to use between the spring & top mount on the strut.
One other important thing if you're going true coilover style in the rear, there is not enough clearance between where the spring rests against the top and the strut mounting bolts to get a socket in to tighten the nuts. What this means is you're going to install a PARTIALLY ASSEMBLED rear strut. Get it mounted on the car at the top, get it torqued down, and THEN get the spring assembly tightened up on the strut. Hold the spring against the top (making sure the rubber washer is centered), spin the bottom cap up against the spring until nice and snug, and then instead of trying to tighten the bottom cap with a spanner, spin the entire strut inside the spring instead until everything's good and tight. That way everything stays nice and centered without you boogering up the lower rubber washer trying to spin it against the base of the spring. Screw on the lock rings and bottom strut mount, measure your drop, and lock everything in place. Takes some extra time, but it's what I had to do.
The rears are quiet (true style on mine), the fronts like to clunk, but from what I've read, that might simply be the nature of the beast with certain styles of coilovers. Metal pillow ***** aren't exactly full of cushion. Anyway... if the shop double checks everything and gives the thumbs up, I won't care about a little suspension noise here and there. It's all low speed stuff anyway; 2-4mph speed bumps going *thunk*, etc...
Set to full stiff all around, the ride quality didn't suffer much. It's definitely stiffer than stock, and more road is telegraphed back to me. Bott's dot impacts feel sharper and more precise, speed bumps are absorbed less (no more bottoming out? yay! srsly, you should see my cats), and the car feels a little more nimble with improved steering response.
That's as much as I can parse out for the coilover effects, the rest is Hotchkis swaybars and all I've got to say about those is: get yours.
Alignment on Monday, road trip to Tahoe for a few weeks on Tuesday. I'll update this a few thousand miles later when I get back.
07/02 mini update:
The shop was able to get everything back to factory spec with a 3/4" drop all around, with plenty of toe adjustment left in the spring bucket. Further drop will require front camber arms.
It took Entaille(Nick) and I about 11 hours to do the coilover installs along with sways, end links, and camber arms. Bear in mind, neither one of us had ever done any of this before, we did it all with forum guides, pictures, and beer.
No power tools, though. Never again without power tools.
Even after measuring a length decrease of 1" from the OEM struts, I managed to raise the front slightly. The rear strut length was decreased 1 3/8" under OEM length, and dropped the rear end unevenly about 3/4". Front alignment seems fine, but that's probably because I didn't dial in enough drop. Negative rear camber is noticeable, but will be fixed. Too tired to care at this point... the shop will sort it out for me on Monday when they do an alignment.
Regarding the rear assembly: put on your smart hat when you're assembling them. Remove the rubber washers from the unused spring bucket adapter pieces to use between the spring & top mount on the strut.
One other important thing if you're going true coilover style in the rear, there is not enough clearance between where the spring rests against the top and the strut mounting bolts to get a socket in to tighten the nuts. What this means is you're going to install a PARTIALLY ASSEMBLED rear strut. Get it mounted on the car at the top, get it torqued down, and THEN get the spring assembly tightened up on the strut. Hold the spring against the top (making sure the rubber washer is centered), spin the bottom cap up against the spring until nice and snug, and then instead of trying to tighten the bottom cap with a spanner, spin the entire strut inside the spring instead until everything's good and tight. That way everything stays nice and centered without you boogering up the lower rubber washer trying to spin it against the base of the spring. Screw on the lock rings and bottom strut mount, measure your drop, and lock everything in place. Takes some extra time, but it's what I had to do.
The rears are quiet (true style on mine), the fronts like to clunk, but from what I've read, that might simply be the nature of the beast with certain styles of coilovers. Metal pillow ***** aren't exactly full of cushion. Anyway... if the shop double checks everything and gives the thumbs up, I won't care about a little suspension noise here and there. It's all low speed stuff anyway; 2-4mph speed bumps going *thunk*, etc...
Set to full stiff all around, the ride quality didn't suffer much. It's definitely stiffer than stock, and more road is telegraphed back to me. Bott's dot impacts feel sharper and more precise, speed bumps are absorbed less (no more bottoming out? yay! srsly, you should see my cats), and the car feels a little more nimble with improved steering response.
That's as much as I can parse out for the coilover effects, the rest is Hotchkis swaybars and all I've got to say about those is: get yours.
Alignment on Monday, road trip to Tahoe for a few weeks on Tuesday. I'll update this a few thousand miles later when I get back.
07/02 mini update:
The shop was able to get everything back to factory spec with a 3/4" drop all around, with plenty of toe adjustment left in the spring bucket. Further drop will require front camber arms.
Last edited by jjaujou; Jul 2, 2012 at 07:49 PM.
Registered User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: Northridge
Well guys. I have had mine installed for a few months now. I can say they feel great and perform like I thought they would. Keep in mind I do not do any track days. However I am curious if anyone else is having issues with their rears making a clunking noise? And before anyone asks I am running true coilover setup and they are installed correctly. But the rears are extremly loud. Anyone else with this issue?
Thread Starter
Vendor - Former Vendor
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
From: Frisco, TX
There is a silver metal ring on the underside of the pillowball mount that sometimes needs to be tightened using a small crooked needle-nose pliers of a heavy-duty snap ring pliers. This has always been the cure for the clunks.
(the small, thin, inner silver ring with the notches)
See here:
.
(the small, thin, inner silver ring with the notches)
See here:
.
Last edited by TS PRO-1; Jul 2, 2012 at 06:41 PM.
There is a silver metal ring on the underside of the pillowball mount that sometimes needs to be tightened using a small crooked needle-nose pliers of a heavy-duty snap ring pliers. This has always been the cure for the clunks.
(the small, thin, inner silver ring with the notches)
.
(the small, thin, inner silver ring with the notches)
.
Thread Starter
Vendor - Former Vendor
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
From: Frisco, TX
The party's almost over...
This sale for my350Z.com members was scheduled to end July 1st...we extended through July 4th.
Afterwards, they will be available at the normal (but still great) price of $699.
Call us directly to order.
George / Will / Aaron
972.233.0888
Afterwards, they will be available at the normal (but still great) price of $699.
Call us directly to order.
George / Will / Aaron
972.233.0888
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
