i believe greddy has a different way of gauging "a few weeks". to most people it is around 21 days, in greddy time though it is about 7 months, hahahhaa. sorry, couldn't help myself.

 

ok i buy
1N4002 & 1N5400

i test both on all coil cables
results:

.64v----1N5400----.51v = .13 DROP

.64v----1N4200----.49v = .15 DROP

which do you guy recomend to install?

 

tell you the truth, it needs to be all the way down in the 0.02-3v range. the emanage ultimate is putting out 0.06v now and is still enough to keep the coils on. i had 5400's in mine with the e-blue and it is still way to high. you are just going to have to either pull the timing harness if you need to test stuff or don't leave the key in the ignition. if you get an eu, then the 5400 should knock it down to 0.00v and be fine.

 

i just read your sig and it says you are running the eu? so your ecu is giving out 0.64v in the key on position? wierd, mine only gives 0.01-2v, then the eu puts out 0.06v. the other volt #'s you gave is what i was getting with the e-blue. either way, you will need an output signal almost at 0.02-3v to keep the coils from turning on.

 

i use e-blue

right now i test the input to the emanage and was .11 the output is .64
so i need a diode that make better drop?

ohh sorry my car is not a 350z is a Spec V i just need some help because i have burn 2 set of coils, and i have no warranty

 

i would just forget about the diodes altogether as they won't provide enough drop either way without possibly harming the signal.

 

But if you guys get .64 on the output too and you install diodes you dont get enough drop on the Z, and you have no burning problem w/diodes

what should i do on my spec?

 

i have burned them with diodes also with the e-blue is what i'm saying. the diodes do not drop it enough still.

 

That might also explain why people get the misfire ECU code that everyone says is normal on FI Z's, which I only just got this weekend at a dyno day after 18 months of having the TT.

I use the J&S and I think it kicked in with knock retard after upping the boost maybe a little too much which also would be apparent since the hp only went up 5 HP between 3rd and 4th gear pulls.

 

This is pure speculation. Plenty of guys with the TN reflashes also get the misfire code, and it has nothing to do with the diodes or the eManage.

 

I agree that it is speculation but it is also speculation that the diodes are the cure for coils burning, come on not being able to leave your key in the ignition on the on position for some time, doesn't sound like a fix to me. Like I said I have not burned any coils and I leave my key in a lot of times and never had the multiple misfires. And the reflahes never convinced me in NA or FI.

 

Under what situations does anyone need to leave their key in the on position for 5 mins or longer? The ACC position is perfectly safe. The tuning benifits of the EU far outweigh this minor inconvenience, IMHO. With the EU, nonbody has burned coils during normal operation of the engine.

 

I have done it plenty of times when playing with the e01 or emanage making some changes or going over some data I logged in the e01 and not wanting to have the car running for whatever reason but usually because I am in the garage, so burning a coil everty time I did that would be an inconvenience and not minor.

 

I thought I read some where that somebody had fried a coil with the EU. I just don't remember which forum it was.

 

sharif until i get the money to buy the EU,
which of the diodes do you recomend me to install

 

Start the car, or unplug the timing harness from the eManage. It's that simple.

 

That is my point I don't have to do that or worry about it

 

unfortuneately, the only option is to unplug the ignition harness when needing to test in this condition. as far as the e-blue, i don't believe that you can put a diode on it that will drop the volts down low enough that it wouldn't harn the signal during engine running. i have tested it and others too. 0.53v is way to high still after the 5400 diode.
i have also blown a coil with the eu. so the 0.06v it puts out is still to high. the 5400 diode on the eu will prolly work though. i basically said ef it though and just unplug the harness now.
most reasons nobody is blowing coils now is the fact everyone now knows you can blow a coil and doesn't keep the key on anymore, not the addition of the diodes. before, nobody knew it would happen.

 

the po300 code is completely separate from the coil burning issue, unless you actually have a coil out at that time. most guys get it when the coils are all in good condition. i am starting to lean towards the fact of the lightened flywheels and clutches that are giving the po300 code. that is about the only thing the f/i guys all have in common and would have an effect on how the motor revs.

 

The P0300 code may not have to do with the coil burning but my thought is that maybe with the diodes and/or emanage handling the timing it is not working very accurately causing the misfires, I don't know that Greddy has yet to say it is ok to use the emanage for the timing on the 350Z

I currently have the ACT street clutch and Nismo flywheel and have not had the issue.