Ok, so I believe that my e-manage fried out one or two of my coil packs, my check engine code is flashing car is running goofy like hesitant, I had just been driving and it was running perfectly and I parked it at the mall and left the key in the ignition for a few min which i normally dont do but I had gotten a phone call and after that the car was running all f'ed up. How do i test my coil packs, I already took each of them off and look at them and they all appeared fine, is there something i can hook up to them to check them or is there something in particular i should be looking for?

 

you can swap the coil packs and see if the misfire follows. What a PIA though, that sucks. Everyone tells me the issue with the EU isn't a big deal but I certainly do not want to deal with that kind of crapola. Sorry for you man.

 

Here is a start

 

WTF? how the hell does eManage do that.

Just when I was about to get an e-Manage....

Respect
JET

 

This happens when you live the key in the "on" position (all dash lights are on) with out the car running. Yeah it is a pain, but you just have to pay attention and never turn the key to the "on" position without the car running. I think of a reason why you would need the key in the "on" if the car is not running.

 

I think you missed a can't in your post

And I agree...it really isn't that hard not to keep it in the on position. The first few days you kinda have to think about it, but it is just natural after those couple of days.

 

With your setup you probably don't need the emanage to handle timing since you have the reflash and just do fuel.

This is the reason I suggest to people to go with the J&S instead, I have had it for a year and leave the key in the on position all of the time and no problems. The diode thing is just a bandaid.

 

Ahh, who needs bandaid's when you have duct tape and superglue

 

lol...I always have typos.

 

Do Coil packs got often in these, i have a maxima with a 3.5 and i have a fried coil pack, the pack actually has a big buldge on the side like it was gonna blow out the side.

 

No, it only seems to do it with the emanage using the ignition harness to handle timing. I have not had any problems.

LOL good old reliable duct tape

 

Here is a bit more info to use as a data point.

http://www.350zclubofflorida.com/php...opic.php?t=295

 

You guys seem confused...zip ties is the race car standard fastner of choice

 

The J&S is more suitable as a safegaurd timing device. The method in which the J&S retards timing doesnt allow for proper ignitoin timing mapping. You can either set it up as RPM based, for instance, 1 degree retard for every 1000rpm, or boost dependent...one degree of retard for each lb of boost. These are just examples. Timing needs to follow the trq curve, and nothing else. When you retard via boost reference only, or RPM only, you end up with timing that is too advanced at the trq peak, and too retarded at redline...especially at higher boost levels.

They key-on thing is a pain..I agree. But under normal driving conditions, there is never a reason to leave the key in the on position. For diagnostics or trouble shooting, you can always unplug the timing harness portion. The benifits of the EU far outweigh this inconvenience. When the UTEC is released (and we are dealers too), there is going to be some people that prefer the EU, and others that prefer the UTEC...thats the beauty of the marketplace.

FYI: I am "just" about to get launch control working on the EU.

 

I am not saying it is the best option or best way to retard timing just, from personal experience, the easiest and for low boost this timing retard method is probably sufficient I don't think you give up much, now when going up in boost and you want squeeze the most out then you definetly be better off with a method that allows for retard where you want it.

 

Yup. I would agree with that.
The UTEC will have knock feedback and retard as well, and the EU should have this function working shortly as well. I spoke to Kenji and they are working on the programming right now, to get the EU to properly interpret the factory knock signal.

 

Any info on when the EU will allow you to dial in the actual timing instead of +/-?

 

He told me just a few weeks longer.

 

what diode i need to use
1N4007, 1N4077, 1N5400????

 

5400 works.