thanks anyway audible! got the message ok...I need a dyno!

 

it says he is in rome italy.... thats a far drive

im just a smartass. i mean no harm 350Z hehehe

 

since this is the right thread for NA tuning UTEC here is my stock timing vs my utec timing (base map for TXS +2 degrees)

here is my average....

RPM STOCK UTEC

2500 22.3 24
3000 25.2 26.3
3500 24.3 27
4000 24.1 27
4500 21 25.2
5000 22.9 21.6
5500 20.7 22.2
6000 21.9 23.5
6500 26.1 24.3
7000 26.8 24.5

on two of my runs outta 4 i had some knock at 7000 rpms, ( 01 ) not sure why it was knocking, what are you guys running the knock parameters at for a safe level thats not picking up too much..


as you can see, it is all over the place. car still runs really strong for not being tuned 13.2 @104 so i cant wait to fix this issue.... thanks to the couple of people who have answered my questions. Mike and Sharif, you both help out a tremendous amount in the 350z community....

 

update... man my timing was all over the place. been dataloggin for a while now and have a perfect 2 degree advance over the stock ecu for my NA map. car feels good. cant wait to get to the track on wed.

any of you guys tuning the utec yourself, just keep reading and asking questions. its pretty easy once you figure it all out...

 

I thought the tunerREG was not required for NA... why does everyone say it's required now?

me = EMS retard

 

its not required. its just necessary if you want to datalog your AFR along with all of your other stats so you can tune it...

 

The tunereg is necessary to tune, but not required??? What good is the utec if you can't tune?
.

 

The tuner wideband options are not needed to use the UTEC to tune the car. However, they are required if you want the UTEC to collect A/F numbers with the other data logging the UTEC can do. One can use different wideband options, mainly on a Dyno or in the car, but that data will not show up in the data logging that the UTEC will collect and display on the computer. If you are using a dyno to tune the car then the tuner options are really not needed since the dyno will coordinate rpms and A/F readings, but if you are going to tune on the road, it is strongly recommended to have one of the UTEC tuner options so that the A/F logging is coordinated with the rpms.

 

If you follow this link it will show why you need the Tuner Reg. It adds the last column for the A/F. With out the Tuner Reg this column has no data.


http://us.st11.yimg.com/store1.yimg....1886_124893193

Later
Aceman

 

zzzzya and aceman, thanks for translating into dumbass english

it is now peeeerfectly clear

 

What RPM did you guys bump the UTEC limiter up to?

I'd like to get more RPM in Solo2 while still using the stock connecting rod bolts (deemed to be the weakest link).

I don't plan on sustain max RPM like lapping or anything, but I do expect to hit the rev limiter for a few seconds in Autocross.

I've heard recommendations from not changing it, to 7000-7200 RPM.

 

As a test I've set my rev-limiter to 7,400 for a while now, and more recently to 7,500rpm. No problems yet @ 480rwhp and the factory engine.

I have customers running up to 502rwhp with the stock rods and proper tuning. I contribute most rod failures to improperly set timing.

Hope this helps,

 

7200 hundred here, i dont think i would go any higher on my car. its nice there though, i pull the same car a whole car length in third gear when they shift with stock rev limiter

 

7300 here, but I shift no higher than 7100...

 

Ok guys, have some more info for you to look over. Sry its taken so long, but I have been busy with school. I am posting my dyno chart, with the A/F ratios blown up. The A/F was recorded by a tailpipe sniffer and I have stock cats, so I realize it may be off slightly. I have also made changes to the maps since this time, timing changes mostly, but I could only afford to tune for 4 runs on the dyno.

 

The early spike is becuase the car would knock sometimes below 3K rpms. The dyno guy even said he heard it ping once or twice and then go away. All the tuning we did on the dyno was simply fuel input changes, except for a few very minor places.

 

I hate it when that happens

 

Does anyone know if one bank usually runs leaner than the other? I'm about to install my Bosch Sensor in one of my test pipes and I wanted to throw it on the side that tends to be leaner.

 

throw it on the driver side...