ECU reflash????
ECU reflash????
Ok, I know there alot of subjects on this but I couldn't find the particular answer I was looking for so. I was wondering if there are other ways of doing an ECU reflash beside the the one were you push the pedal down, wait 10 seconds and all that. I heard a while ago that you can just undo the battery?? If so how long do you unhook it for?
I just can't seem to do the reflash the other way.
I just can't seem to do the reflash the other way.
Originally Posted by Xx SiFaKa
Ok, I know there alot of subjects on this but I couldn't find the particular answer I was looking for so. I was wondering if there are other ways of doing an ECU reflash beside the the one were you push the pedal down, wait 10 seconds and all that. I heard a while ago that you can just undo the battery?? If so how long do you unhook it for?
I just can't seem to do the reflash the other way.
I just can't seem to do the reflash the other way.
Originally Posted by davidv
I believe that you are confusing reflash with reset. Reflash (or simply flash) is a tuning method. Resetting the ECU restores the original settings.
Originally Posted by Nexx
disconnect the battery overnight, stomp on the brakes in the morning. reconnect and your done. not sure why your having problems the other way. ive done it plenty of times with no problems. i had to keep doing it when my cel kept coming on after long highway cruises. i found one bolt needed to be retightened on my plenum. no cel since.
So obviously I am doing something wrong so I guess I will just try the battery method.
ECU Reset procedures via TechnoSquareINC
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm
Please read all instructions and be familiar with them before any attempts.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
ECU Resetting Procedures
Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
ECU Resetting Procedures
Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
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Originally Posted by Chebosto
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 192
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From: Atlanta
I found the following condensed procedure for the ECU reset. It worked for me.
1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!
Also, just as an aside, I don't know why everyone refers to this as the 'Brake pedal pump' procedure. In searching for this, all the procedures I found involved pumping the accelerator, not the brake pedal.
1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!
Also, just as an aside, I don't know why everyone refers to this as the 'Brake pedal pump' procedure. In searching for this, all the procedures I found involved pumping the accelerator, not the brake pedal.
Last edited by semtex; Sep 7, 2006 at 11:13 AM.
First of all, listen to davidv. Every time he posts in one of your threads: listen to him. He knows his stuff.
REFLASH = reprogram your ECU to perform differently. Might change fuel maps, timing, etc.
RESET = restore original factory settings to your ECU, also clear SES/CEL/trouble codes.
If you can't do the pedal method, it's because your timing is off. It's not that hard, I did it on my second try.
I believe the pedal RESET method is a diagnostic reset, not a FULL reset.
A diagnostic reset will erase trouble code/SES/CEL light, but will not change any other settings in your ECU.
A FULL reset will restore all factory settings to your ECU. Your ECU "learns" as you drive, and sometimes if you swap out, say, an intake, your ECU may behave funny. If you do a full reset (which is guaranteed by the battery disconnect/pedal mash method) then your ECU settings will reset so the ECU can "learn" the new mods.
Still, the factory ECU is not tuned for optimum performance. It is tuned for economy and emissions. You need a REFLASH or a piggyback ECU to tune the car for performance.
REFLASH = reprogram your ECU to perform differently. Might change fuel maps, timing, etc.
RESET = restore original factory settings to your ECU, also clear SES/CEL/trouble codes.
If you can't do the pedal method, it's because your timing is off. It's not that hard, I did it on my second try.
I believe the pedal RESET method is a diagnostic reset, not a FULL reset.
A diagnostic reset will erase trouble code/SES/CEL light, but will not change any other settings in your ECU.
A FULL reset will restore all factory settings to your ECU. Your ECU "learns" as you drive, and sometimes if you swap out, say, an intake, your ECU may behave funny. If you do a full reset (which is guaranteed by the battery disconnect/pedal mash method) then your ECU settings will reset so the ECU can "learn" the new mods.
Still, the factory ECU is not tuned for optimum performance. It is tuned for economy and emissions. You need a REFLASH or a piggyback ECU to tune the car for performance.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 690
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From: Louisiana, USA
+1 for Wired and Davidv
The trick to doing the CEL reset with the pedal is step 6, where it says "more than 10 seconds". During this step the CEL is flashing the trouble codes to you (first group of blinks = first number of the CEL code, second group = second number, and so on to the fourth digit of the CEL code).
I have found that the procedure works best if you LET THE CEL LIGHT FINISH COUNTING OUT ALL FOUR DIGITS OF THE CODE.
So, if you have successfully cleared all codes, it will read back '0000', which is 10 flashes, break, 10 flashes, break, 10 flashes, break, 10 flashes...
THEN you release the pedal for step 7, and the CEL light should begin a steady blink again. Then continue through the last couple steps.
Maybe this won't work for everyone, but it works most often for me,.
But I get sick of doing it, so when I need to reset the lights I just disconnect the battery. Wait a couple hours, then connect it again. No pedal pumping needed. CEL cleared and the ECU is reset.
Note that in OBD2 cars (like ours) that simply reset'ing the ECU will not force the system to "account for your mods" (as some folks may think). Instead the ECU will modify fuel and timing AROUND them, an in a sense will "tune them out", so eventually it will be like you haven't installed anything... Unless your mods are so extreme that the ECU can never relearn the OEM maps. In this example you would end up with driveability problems until you received a proper tune using something like a UTEC, Unichip, or eManage system.
Hope that helps
-Smoky
The trick to doing the CEL reset with the pedal is step 6, where it says "more than 10 seconds". During this step the CEL is flashing the trouble codes to you (first group of blinks = first number of the CEL code, second group = second number, and so on to the fourth digit of the CEL code).
I have found that the procedure works best if you LET THE CEL LIGHT FINISH COUNTING OUT ALL FOUR DIGITS OF THE CODE.
So, if you have successfully cleared all codes, it will read back '0000', which is 10 flashes, break, 10 flashes, break, 10 flashes, break, 10 flashes...
THEN you release the pedal for step 7, and the CEL light should begin a steady blink again. Then continue through the last couple steps.
Maybe this won't work for everyone, but it works most often for me,.
But I get sick of doing it, so when I need to reset the lights I just disconnect the battery. Wait a couple hours, then connect it again. No pedal pumping needed. CEL cleared and the ECU is reset.
Note that in OBD2 cars (like ours) that simply reset'ing the ECU will not force the system to "account for your mods" (as some folks may think). Instead the ECU will modify fuel and timing AROUND them, an in a sense will "tune them out", so eventually it will be like you haven't installed anything... Unless your mods are so extreme that the ECU can never relearn the OEM maps. In this example you would end up with driveability problems until you received a proper tune using something like a UTEC, Unichip, or eManage system.
Hope that helps
-Smoky
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta
Originally Posted by SmokyTyrz
I just disconnect the battery. Wait a couple hours, then connect it again. No pedal pumping needed. CEL cleared and the ECU is reset.
Note that in OBD2 cars (like ours) that simply reset'ing the ECU will not force the system to "account for your mods" (as some folks may think). Instead the ECU will modify fuel and timing AROUND them, an in a sense will "tune them out", so eventually it will be like you haven't installed anything... Unless your mods are so extreme that the ECU can never relearn the OEM maps. In this example you would end up with driveability problems until you received a proper tune using something like a UTEC, Unichip, or eManage system.
Hope that helps
-Smoky
Note that in OBD2 cars (like ours) that simply reset'ing the ECU will not force the system to "account for your mods" (as some folks may think). Instead the ECU will modify fuel and timing AROUND them, an in a sense will "tune them out", so eventually it will be like you haven't installed anything... Unless your mods are so extreme that the ECU can never relearn the OEM maps. In this example you would end up with driveability problems until you received a proper tune using something like a UTEC, Unichip, or eManage system.
Hope that helps
-Smoky
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 690
Likes: 0
From: Louisiana, USA
To give the system time to reset. Honestly, I've never tried just taking it off and putting right back, because normally I'm doing some other work anyway. So maybe it would reset quicker. But I suspect that, as in other OBD2 vehicles, codes are stored for a brief time before they are whiped from lack of power.
This may not be the case though. I know earlier posts said 24 hours and I found it worked in 2. Maybe it's even less. Give it a shot and let us know!
This may not be the case though. I know earlier posts said 24 hours and I found it worked in 2. Maybe it's even less. Give it a shot and let us know!
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 192
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From: Atlanta
Okay, I unplugged the battery, pumped the brakes, waited a mere 5 minutes and reconnected the battery and I do believe the reset worked. I don't know if pumping the brake is necessary, but I figured it couldn't hurt anything, so why not? As for how I conclude that the reset worked, I need to first give some background on how I came across this thread.
I had posted elsewhere that after installing the Motordyne MREV2 + 5/16 spacer, my hood didn't line up quite right (which I have since resolved). Someone said 'hey, btw, I'm planning to do this install next week, what do you think of the results?' I replied by saying that quite frankly I didn't know what to make of it, because I didn't notice any difference in engine tone or performance. But I also said that maybe I just need to give the ECU time to adapt. At that point, someone mentioned that if I do a search, I'll find the procedure for doing it manually. So that's how I came to this thread.
SO....after disconnecting the battery for just 5 minutes and reconnecting, I went out for a drive, and voila! Engine sounded deeper and throatier, and I noticed the performance gain as well! Now I need to go over to that other thread and make clear that the reason I didn't notice any difference is because I screwed up! I didn't disconnect the battery when I started the install, which is step 1 in the instructions. Had I followed that instruction, this would have all been moot!
I had posted elsewhere that after installing the Motordyne MREV2 + 5/16 spacer, my hood didn't line up quite right (which I have since resolved). Someone said 'hey, btw, I'm planning to do this install next week, what do you think of the results?' I replied by saying that quite frankly I didn't know what to make of it, because I didn't notice any difference in engine tone or performance. But I also said that maybe I just need to give the ECU time to adapt. At that point, someone mentioned that if I do a search, I'll find the procedure for doing it manually. So that's how I came to this thread.
SO....after disconnecting the battery for just 5 minutes and reconnecting, I went out for a drive, and voila! Engine sounded deeper and throatier, and I noticed the performance gain as well! Now I need to go over to that other thread and make clear that the reason I didn't notice any difference is because I screwed up! I didn't disconnect the battery when I started the install, which is step 1 in the instructions. Had I followed that instruction, this would have all been moot!
Originally Posted by Xx SiFaKa
Well now i'm confused? Lol, well my car I bought from someone a couple of months back had done some mods to it (cai, headers, exhaust). Wouldn't I do an ecu reflash?
Sorry if i missed this in the post but ummm why are you trying to reset the ECU??? I would say if someone already moded the Z and runs good they why toy with perfection? Unless you are going back to stock, why would you remove mods? Did you find out if the previous owner did a ECU reflash?
Originally Posted by ReV2Red
Also. If you get a reflash from say technosquare, if you then do the ECU reset procedure, do you then have to send the ECU off to get reflashed again?
