Originally Posted by SmokyTyrz

+1 for Wired and Davidv

The trick to doing the CEL reset with the pedal is step 6, where it says "more than 10 seconds". During this step the CEL is flashing the trouble codes to you (first group of blinks = first number of the CEL code, second group = second number, and so on to the fourth digit of the CEL code).

I have found that the procedure works best if you LET THE CEL LIGHT FINISH COUNTING OUT ALL FOUR DIGITS OF THE CODE.

So, if you have successfully cleared all codes, it will read back '0000', which is 10 flashes, break, 10 flashes, break, 10 flashes, break, 10 flashes...

THEN you release the pedal for step 7, and the CEL light should begin a steady blink again. Then continue through the last couple steps.

Maybe this won't work for everyone, but it works most often for me,.

But I get sick of doing it, so when I need to reset the lights I just disconnect the battery. Wait a couple hours, then connect it again. No pedal pumping needed. CEL cleared and the ECU is reset.

Note that in OBD2 cars (like ours) that simply reset'ing the ECU will not force the system to "account for your mods" (as some folks may think). Instead the ECU will modify fuel and timing AROUND them, an in a sense will "tune them out", so eventually it will be like you haven't installed anything... Unless your mods are so extreme that the ECU can never relearn the OEM maps. In this example you would end up with driveability problems until you received a proper tune using something like a UTEC, Unichip, or eManage system.

Hope that helps
-Smoky