No BS correction Dyno Jet numbers...
Originally Posted by Alberto
Nothing I didnt already know, but no BS Julian thank you for doing this, and posting the results regardless. I respect the fact that you did that after all the dyno wars we've been having lately. Once you can hold more boost it will be nasty.
So to recap you trapped 127mph down the 1/4 with 550whp correct?
So to recap you trapped 127mph down the 1/4 with 550whp correct?
I think you can take your flame suit off, Julian...this is good stuff. 
I think you are doing the right thing..we both are...by turning off additional correction. I would still use standard atmo correction, however. If you turn that off, you are going to have cars displaying much less power in the summer, and much more in the winter, and that can also confuse people. We usually see a standard atmo correction in the summer of about 1.06-1.09 and the winter time is reversed to .91 to .97 or in that range. As long as the atmo parameters are entered correction, you should be right in the ballpark. And you will also know that your numbers will always be a little bit lower than the next door dynojet...and there is no shame in that.
Thanks for sharing.......remember...one "F" in my name.

I think you are doing the right thing..we both are...by turning off additional correction. I would still use standard atmo correction, however. If you turn that off, you are going to have cars displaying much less power in the summer, and much more in the winter, and that can also confuse people. We usually see a standard atmo correction in the summer of about 1.06-1.09 and the winter time is reversed to .91 to .97 or in that range. As long as the atmo parameters are entered correction, you should be right in the ballpark. And you will also know that your numbers will always be a little bit lower than the next door dynojet...and there is no shame in that.

Thanks for sharing.......remember...one "F" in my name.
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
I think you can take your flame suit off, Julian...this is good stuff. 
I think you are doing the right thing..we both are...by turning off additional correction. I would still use standard atmo correction, however. If you turn that off, you are going to have cars displaying much less power in the summer, and much more in the winter, and that can also confuse people. We usually see a standard atmo correction in the summer of about 1.06-1.09 and the winter time is reversed to .91 to .97 or in that range. As long as the atmo parameters are entered correction, you should be right in the ballpark. And you will also know that your numbers will always be a little bit lower than the next door dynojet...and there is no shame in that.
Thanks for sharing.......remember...one "F" in my name.

I think you are doing the right thing..we both are...by turning off additional correction. I would still use standard atmo correction, however. If you turn that off, you are going to have cars displaying much less power in the summer, and much more in the winter, and that can also confuse people. We usually see a standard atmo correction in the summer of about 1.06-1.09 and the winter time is reversed to .91 to .97 or in that range. As long as the atmo parameters are entered correction, you should be right in the ballpark. And you will also know that your numbers will always be a little bit lower than the next door dynojet...and there is no shame in that.

Thanks for sharing.......remember...one "F" in my name.

Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
Notice you took your BS corrections off also..


As soon as I get this TXS boost control solenoid wired up, my engine will be ready for the new DD numbers.
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Yeah...did it a few days ago...after you mentioned it. 
As soon as I get this TXS boost control solenoid wired up, my engine will be ready for the new DD numbers.

As soon as I get this TXS boost control solenoid wired up, my engine will be ready for the new DD numbers.

Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
We have been trying the BCS and it was not working as we liked.

Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Yeah, that is what I have heard from other shops too. Seems like it works on some cars, and not on others. My thought, is that if a car has a problem holding steady boost without a controller, than a boost controller isnt going to help much. I am about to test it out....if it doesnt work...I'll use another controller. 

Good Stuff
Still Very Strong numbers MRC
Im glad everyone has Kissed and made up.
We all are here to learn from each other, not put one another down. Though sometimes it makes for some good reading
Later
Aceman
Still Very Strong numbers MRC
Im glad everyone has Kissed and made up.
We all are here to learn from each other, not put one another down. Though sometimes it makes for some good reading

Later
Aceman
Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
Our problem was not that it did not hold boost, it simply just ran up to whatever the wastegates would hold, no matter how we set it up, open loop or closed loop and regardless of duty cycle..It just would not regulate boost...We did hear it clicking so we know it was working, sort of..But just not as we hoped to map different boost levels..

i like to switch boost levels by how far i press down the gas pedal... hehe
i hate having a high and low level setting, when you floor it on low setting it makes the car feel like something is wrong...
i hate having a high and low level setting, when you floor it on low setting it makes the car feel like something is wrong...
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