I JUST figured out how to finaly get maps loaded and get my UTEC running. Going through the directions, i come across "Temp Comp". All it says is that you are able to enter timing and fuel corrections to be applied globally to all maps based on air temps.
The base value's are all 0's for both fuel and Timing. So my question is this. When i finaly start my car this week, the outside temp is going to be around 20-30 degrees fahrenheit and go as low as -30 in Jan and Feb. What, if anything, should i change these values to? Or should i wait and log first before changing these values? The maps and parameters i loaded were sent to me by Sharif for my Greddy TT set up. Being that he's in GA, i'm sure it's MUCH warmer and these maps will no doubt reflect that making me run rich (or lean??).

 

Dont use it its garbage. What I do for weather changes from up to 100 degrees heat to 30's inwinter is this-you need a return fuel system from CJM or AAM to do this. I adjust the base FPR and it richens/leans out the entire map, I run a low 40psi base fuel pressure in summer and in winter I run 42-43psi and my tune stays good. Takes 1 minute to adjust...

 

Sweet.. I JUST installed the CJM this past week. What would you suggest i start my fuel pressure at being that it's going to be around 30F only to get colder? Oh.. And something i just thought of, what will the pressure be at "out of the box"? Will i need to do any adjusting before start up?

 

I drove my car today in high 30-mid 40 temps, I am now running 45psi base fuel pressure because at 42psi I was very lean...your gonna need to play with that, but if your running 550cc or smaller Id start at 42psi.

 

I'm running 450's. Temps are steady at about 30-40 in the afternoon. I HOPE to finaly crank my car on this week. When i do start it for the first time, what should i do? Fuel wise i mean. Will i know what my preasure is at before i actualy turn the engine over?

 

i heard run the base pressure around 50-52 psi or so, and let the regulator adjust when you come into boost?

 

I'll PM you a baseline Temp Correction you can start off with

 

Got it. I'll plug those correction in my UTEC tonight! Thanks alot. With the cold that i see up here, i'll need to keep my fuel in line. -20 during the day is a common thing where i'm from during Jan and Feb.

 

One of the problems I'm having is that running 550's and 15.5 psi (always AFR < 11.3) is fine in 60F+ weather but once the cold kicks in I'm running out of duty cycle ... I could always up the base fuel pressure but it's already at ~60psi and I don't really want to go higher than that.

I guess I'm just gonna have to nut up and get some 750's ...

Colin

 

Sounds like a good problem to have! What kind of power are you putting down at 15.5psi?

 

Not sure, I've been tuning myself so far but it's going on a dyno for the final timing pass on thursday as I'm just beginning to learn about timing, I'm really interested to see what he does for the timing curve.

Hoping for low 500's on a mustang dyno, we shall see ......

Colin

 

Ive tried the temp comp-its BS, it over-compensates and under-compensates at times, its far from correct. On my car with the TN set-up, it would be good in 60 degree temps or so, any colder and Id go way down rich into 10's A/F. Try the comp, then try the way I told you and see what you like best....

 

I'll have to give both a try. I still haven't gotten my car running yet, so i haven't gotten a chance to get real involved with tuning, but when i get this thing on the dyno, how i will i know when my fuel preasure is my problem and not something else? I guess i just don't really understand how when the outside temp drops, turning up the fuel preasure will solve the problem? I'll have to do some research ofcourse, but i'm sure once my car starts rolling, i'll see how everything ties in.

Just in case, these are my performance mods. If that makes any diference?
Stock block, Greddy Twins, CJM fuel return (stage 1), 440's, AAM spacers (intake/oil), dual 3" TBE, UTEC, Tuner Pro-bosch, SVRT open WG dumps... Might be missing something??

 

So, fuel pressure can be a problem at both ends (too low and too high).

If your fuel pressure is too low then you will find that as your rpms increase (at full boost) if you are lean then it doesn't matter how much fuel you add into the fuel table you cannot get rid of the lean condition.

The problem if you have your fuel pressure too high is that at idle it may be very difficult for you to find a value for the 0% column that will make the car idle nicely. Also, warm starting may be an issue, I know it is for me ...

Of course, I may be totally wrong on the above but this is how I understand it currently.

Colin

 

Just out of interest, what kind of numbers did you have in the compensation table.

 

i fiddled with it and I only had 1-2% changes in fuel on either side of my "usual" range. I couldn't feel a difference. right now, I have zeros in all the temp tables, though.

 

have you used the spreadsheet from TXS to se what it tells you?

 

i couldnt agree more, i hate their temp compenstation, it does way too much..

 

it does not scale. It is either on or off for the value you set.

 

It seems that most people i talk to about this, don't use it. What should i be on the look out for when i start to tune this week (Dyno mid week, street tune after)? Outside temp is going single digits and i'm trying to decide if i should run off WG's alone before i try turning the boost up to 8.5 like the map Sharif sent to me is titled??
So far i've driven around town to get my exhaust put on, but the owner had shut down for black friday so i don't have an A/F reading as of yet. Fuel pressure is set to 52psi and i'm reading around 18-19psi vacuum at idle, so i think i'm good there.