Couple questions then, can I learn some of this from playing with my mustang cause I don't really care about that one and thats stock. The other question, in the manual it says that when using a remote switch to set the utec switch to 0. But it says that there are only 5 maps that can be stored on the utec. Then it says that position 6 is valet, position 7 is security, position 8 is stock mode. Can I change stock mode to a usable tuning map. What I'm trying to do is make sure that all my maps are not going to damage my engine if I hop in and somehow the position changed.

 

Yes, actually...Start by getting a cheap piggyback and wire it in, then start playing..Would be a good learning experience.Also start by going to some local shops and race tracks and see how everyone else does it..And in reality, you might actually get disgusted at how well, the GT responds to tuning over the 6cylinder Z..lol


No...Map 8 is a stock mode..You get 5 tunable switchable maps plus Valet6,security7 and stock8..Those last 3 maps are default maps in the UTEC and are not changable by the user nor visible on the edit maps screen.

You must make sure mas 1-5 are a good F/I map, simply copy your map in all 5 positions..The other maps will not allow you to really drive the car hard at all..If you have a base turbonetics kit, start by downloading and istalling a map from Turbo XS website that is similar to your set up..I would still not go crazy boosting till you verify your A/F and timing is right..

 

It's not that I don't like the power. Its the weight of the car. Its so heavy. I know I could get a lot of power from it. I also know the Z is already tuned really well to get most of the power the engine can put out. But I'm not just a straight line kind of guy, thats where the Z shines. Plus the Z looks better. As far as tuning yeah, your probably right. I will try to find a piggy back for it tonight. Question though. Since the utec isn't a complete piggy back system will the tuning be different or will I be able to relate that to the Z when I get the hang of it.

 

Nah, I actually realized that the Z is tuned from the factory for EMISSIONS above all things, that is why it runs at 14.7 AFR even under WOT up until about 4000rpm

(emissions get worse as you deviate from 14.7)

 

Yeah, and that makes it a ROYAL PITA to tune n/a. No matter what you change on your piggyback, the stock ecu always fights back to get it at 14.7, especially below 3600 rpms, where the variable timing **** kicks in. After that, it doesn't need much tuning at all because it goes to about 12.5 afr until redline.

 

Here is a chart of my AFR etc. before and after tuning

https://my350z.com/forum/attachment....4&d=1161287874

it may help some people...

 

I'm a totally new at being a "car guy". Just never was growing up. I got this book and love it. It's a DENSE read though, not light reading. I feel like I'm back in school. Even if you're not tuning your own car but plan to have someone else do it it's probably worth the read (at least so far, i'm only through the first few chapters). But in one chapter I've learned more about EFI than I even knew existed. You can pick it up on amazon.com. I can't speak on behalf of the experts, but for a newbie this has been my best "mod" to date :-) I can't recommend it enough for anyone that's even remotely interested in tuning. (Damn, I wish I was getting paid endorsements.)

 

Wired,

I see that you pulled about 2-3* timing up to ~5000 rpms, then you added 1* over stock after. I had the dealer add 2* timing. When I get my Cipher in, I'll be able to pull that 2* out and see if it has any affect on afr. I know that there are plenty of people out there who already know the answer to this, so feel free to chime in, since I have yet to experience this firsthand.

Were these graphs taken at wot? My main problems are occuring at anything other than wot, but above 20% tps or 2.8V MAF. I'm starting to get "spots" of tps/rpm that are staying at my target afr , but there are still many stubborn areas that I am trying to address without ripping the ecu out by it's harness and throwing it onto the interstate.

I love my car...

 

dTor, the differences in timing are NOT STRAIGHTFORWARD.

the "before" timing was done on the street, whereas the "after timing" was done on a load based dyno...

pretty much the only thing I did to timing was add 2 degrees using cipher, believe it or not. (made quite a bit of power doing this, but it tends to ping with 91 octane)

Yes, of course, all graphs were at WOT

 

Just ordered, the book today, been a little busy lately. Hopefully it helps.

 

I don't know if his info will help but here we go. I own a spec v (I know.....BOOooooo) But we were running into the same problem with loosing our tune because of fighting witht the ECU. Some of our local spec v gurus figured out if you remove the post cat O2 sensor or cut the signal wire the car will go into limp mode and run a fuel map of 13.0+ to stay rich and keep the engine safe. Then you have the full control of the fuel. Change as you please and no more ECU battles.

As far as self tuning your car, If it was a piggy back I could help you cause I have street tuned using a wideband (zt2) and SAFC and soon to be moving to emanage blue. But as for stand alone It can be done just go slow and start rich then pull fuel. Is there someone with a base map they can give you. I wouldn't reccomend going out and hammering it with a shared map but it will give you a good place to start. [/My 2 cents]

 

I already have a base tune from a performance shop, and am going to use that as a base.

 

is it true that you really "lose" your tune even if you have a utec installed and already programmed?

 

what pregunta said is true if you read the service manual it says that if the closed loop function is not working while driving it's because of oxygen sensor-1. the only thing is that your check engine light will probably stay on but the ecm won't be able to detune your mods since it needs the oxygen sensor to determine what corrections it should make

 

Bump

 

Hey redman im curious to know how your self tunning has gone. Also what tips can you give a noob like me????

 

make small changes and adjust accordingly...call utec if you have any questions as they are very good about answering them promptly.