350hp N/A Z, anyone??
#1
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350hp N/A Z, anyone??
Has anyone here built a 350hp NA 350z in North America?
Intrested in doing my 03 and wanted to know what would it take me more to achieve this state
my mods,
Bolt-ons+SSV+Nismo cams
Thanks
Intrested in doing my 03 and wanted to know what would it take me more to achieve this state
my mods,
Bolt-ons+SSV+Nismo cams
Thanks
#3
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Thread Starter
I wish
Talking about 350bhp and how hard to get there.
Are just Nismo Heads and a reflash enough? or there's more in the cake than what meets the eye?
Talking about 350bhp and how hard to get there.
Are just Nismo Heads and a reflash enough? or there's more in the cake than what meets the eye?
#5
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350bhp isn't hard - I'm at about 320-325, 260 at the wheels.
If you want to try and get 350 Whp, then bore .020 with oversized pistons and leightweight connecting rods, forged crank with upgraded cams and performance heads (as well as intake, headers, cats, exhaust, and tune) you will be well near 350whp if not more, but it is going to cost just a liiiiittle bit to get all that done - upwards of $10k I would imagine for all that.
If you want to try and get 350 Whp, then bore .020 with oversized pistons and leightweight connecting rods, forged crank with upgraded cams and performance heads (as well as intake, headers, cats, exhaust, and tune) you will be well near 350whp if not more, but it is going to cost just a liiiiittle bit to get all that done - upwards of $10k I would imagine for all that.
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Originally Posted by DayBlueZ
and hell, for 10k you can twin turbo.
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#8
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i'd take 400 rwhp over 350 bhp for $10,000...there isn't much lag at all with a twin turbo...its not like we're putting one of those giant drag supra turbos in...and the chance of blowing your engine is still very slim...especially now versus when the Z first came out
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right now he is probably at 270 whp with those mods and the 6 speed - get bored over .020 , lightweight pistons and connecting rods - that's 70rwhp right there, at a cost of about 3-5 grand depending on machining costs and installation. A new forged crank can stabalize the power, freeing up more to the wheels, estimate 30whp and 3k for the crank, no cost in labor since you already have the engine apart, and then the heads, about 2 grand for the part, and minimal installation costs when the motor is already about, again, at least 30rwhp gain. So 130rwhp for around 10K that won't blow your motor and you are at about 400rwhp anyway? ok, I'll take that over a twin turbo on a stock motor anyday and pay 4 thousand to replace the stock block every few months.
#11
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^ Uhhh...you don't overbore an engine to get horsepower, you bore to clean up and true the cylinder walls.
30whp for a lightweight crank? No.
70whp for .020 overbore with lightweight pistons and rods? No.
Those two combined won't gain you much more than 10whp. However it will let the engine rev much higher and smoother. With NA you're going to make all your power with the heads and cams assuming all your other breathing mods are taken care of.
30whp for a lightweight crank? No.
70whp for .020 overbore with lightweight pistons and rods? No.
Those two combined won't gain you much more than 10whp. However it will let the engine rev much higher and smoother. With NA you're going to make all your power with the heads and cams assuming all your other breathing mods are taken care of.
Last edited by Nihilation; 11-15-2006 at 05:13 AM.
#13
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350 crank hp isn't too hard, no one has mentioned he needs TUNING capability. that alone can yeild good gains when you are piling on NA mods.
and get rid of the SSV.
(1) piggyback ecu (whatever brand you/tuner likes $1000 w/ tuning (get tuned after all other mods are on)
(2) IF you have money to spend : Headwork is a MUST for na and to really match with the cams... again, you need to find a builder who knows how to match head flow to the cam profile $2,000
(3) full exhaust (can use HFCs) including headers, b, y, and can $1500
(4) IF you are cool (lol) you can get a larger MAF, intake tube and TB. with the tuning software, this can also increase the amount of air you can flow, and if you get a good builder, they can bore out the TB to increase the velocity. disclaimer: no one has dyno'd with this stuff yet, so it's possible it couldn't increase power that much. $500 -/+
(5) good fuel. <3<3
(6) if you are cool enough to get rid of the SSV, get the lower plenum runners ported and shaped.
then you should have an oil cooler, maybe even the filter relocation kit like amsoil which increases oil capacity to like 10qts I think. better radiator, hoses, catch can, radiator cap
larger injectors maybe?
and get rid of the SSV.
(1) piggyback ecu (whatever brand you/tuner likes $1000 w/ tuning (get tuned after all other mods are on)
(2) IF you have money to spend : Headwork is a MUST for na and to really match with the cams... again, you need to find a builder who knows how to match head flow to the cam profile $2,000
(3) full exhaust (can use HFCs) including headers, b, y, and can $1500
(4) IF you are cool (lol) you can get a larger MAF, intake tube and TB. with the tuning software, this can also increase the amount of air you can flow, and if you get a good builder, they can bore out the TB to increase the velocity. disclaimer: no one has dyno'd with this stuff yet, so it's possible it couldn't increase power that much. $500 -/+
(5) good fuel. <3<3
(6) if you are cool enough to get rid of the SSV, get the lower plenum runners ported and shaped.
then you should have an oil cooler, maybe even the filter relocation kit like amsoil which increases oil capacity to like 10qts I think. better radiator, hoses, catch can, radiator cap
larger injectors maybe?
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Originally Posted by Nihilation
^ Uhhh...you don't overbore an engine to get horsepower, you bore to clean up and true the cylinder walls.
30whp for a lightweight crank? No.
70whp for .020 overbore with lightweight pistons and rods? No.
Those two combined won't gain you much more than 10whp. However it will let the engine rev much higher and smoother. With NA you're going to make all your power with the heads and cams assuming all your other breathing mods are taken care of.
30whp for a lightweight crank? No.
70whp for .020 overbore with lightweight pistons and rods? No.
Those two combined won't gain you much more than 10whp. However it will let the engine rev much higher and smoother. With NA you're going to make all your power with the heads and cams assuming all your other breathing mods are taken care of.
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/145855-which-rods-and-pistons-for-n-a-engine.html
However, I didn't remember correctly - he actually said he gained 70whp from his current setup, and wasn't expecting more than 20whp for the pistons and rods. My mistake.
With that, I retract what I said about the crank as well, obviously I was mistaken in my calculations.
Again however, with heads/cams, like Nihilation said, you will make some real power.
If you really want to know, instead of posting here, contact Sharif@Forged - probably one of the most knowledgable people on the boards about the VQ, he could answer any question you have most likely
#16
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Thanks for the great info guys, 3 more questions if I may ask:
1-What's wrong with the SSV? Tried the Kenitex V4 and it cracked due to heat or a defect maybe! I instaled isothermal gasket beneeth the SSV and helped in reducing heat
2-Any one out there using Nismo heads?
3-In Japan, 350bhp NA Z's are all around the country! What is the difference between the USDM and JDM Z's?
1-What's wrong with the SSV? Tried the Kenitex V4 and it cracked due to heat or a defect maybe! I instaled isothermal gasket beneeth the SSV and helped in reducing heat
2-Any one out there using Nismo heads?
3-In Japan, 350bhp NA Z's are all around the country! What is the difference between the USDM and JDM Z's?
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^ The Japanese throw retarded amounts of money at them... if you did that, you'd have one too. We Americans are not patient though, and seek instant gratification (FI).
#18
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^ like said before, 350 Bhp is not hard to get to.
With my mods - motordyne plenum spacer (5/16th inch), Injen intake, Topspeed Headers, Borla True Dual Exhaust, and Greddy Emanage Blue (along with a tune) I am at 260 Whp. With about a 20% drivetrain loss becuase of the 5AT tranny, I am estimating about 320-325 block HP. Those mods only cost me about ~$2,000. With cams and install I am thinking that would put me around 275-280 whp (since most gains reported are around 17whp), that would come out to be 350Bhp. (280 divided by .8 /*.8 is for 80% of crank power*/ comes out to be 350)
for an MT transmission with 350 Bhp you would be at 290ish whp
Thats about $3,500-$4,000 (depending on the price you get the cams at and the labor rate) of mods. Not bad.
In reality how much does a nice set of heads gain?
With my mods - motordyne plenum spacer (5/16th inch), Injen intake, Topspeed Headers, Borla True Dual Exhaust, and Greddy Emanage Blue (along with a tune) I am at 260 Whp. With about a 20% drivetrain loss becuase of the 5AT tranny, I am estimating about 320-325 block HP. Those mods only cost me about ~$2,000. With cams and install I am thinking that would put me around 275-280 whp (since most gains reported are around 17whp), that would come out to be 350Bhp. (280 divided by .8 /*.8 is for 80% of crank power*/ comes out to be 350)
for an MT transmission with 350 Bhp you would be at 290ish whp
Thats about $3,500-$4,000 (depending on the price you get the cams at and the labor rate) of mods. Not bad.
In reality how much does a nice set of heads gain?
Last edited by MrKaira; 11-15-2006 at 10:30 AM.