I did about thirteen logging today on street.. And my AFR got better since time one.. But now it is showing Knock.. So.. Just wondering what to do.. I tried to lean out where it is knocking but it's not changing..So.. Please help me out.. I didn't change timing or anything like that.. So.. Thanks.. Here is the graph and the txt file.. Oh and I have 06' G35 Coupe 6MT w/ K&N Filter, HKS Hi power exhaust, Spacer, Lower Plenum and Z-Tube if that helps.. Thanks..

 

motors will knock cause of too much timing or too lean. keep it fat and low timing...


post up your parameters. thats a lot of knock NA..

 

I didn't change any timing though.. Should I make it towards 12.5 AFR towards high RPMs? Thanks..

 

Try 12.5 at torque peak rpm and 12.1 at HP peak rpm really depends on the temperature inside combustion chamber.
Every fuel batch is different and how it reacts.

 

every car responds differently. too many variable. if it was that easy to just get it to a number, well then tuning would be much easier.


some cars love timing and fuel, some like lean and no timing, some like timing and lean. you have to get it on a dyno to figure it out.

i would guess your knock sensitivity is very high right now. do a log using the 1 key through the regular utec.

also do a screen shot of your parameters and we will get it running right. keep the top side of the rpms right under 13 to 1, you wont see that knock any more.


edit. looking at your stock timing, it is not pulling any timing, i would say your sensitivity is just wrong on your parameters. change them to 90 80 70 60 60 60 in the knock column. see if that helps

 

Try lowering the Knock sensitivity like J said.Also what program you using to datalog?

 

13.1 afr is rather lean, especially after about 5k. You ideally will want to be in the 12.6 to 12.8 area up top. Reducing your knock threshold will reduce the amount of knock the utec will pick up but it will not fix the knocking. Richen up the car slightly if the knock doesn't go away reduce your timing.

 

Your online on Easter Sunday??Whoa..

 

he is using UTI program.


hit me up julian and i know where you can get it.

it works pretty well, i am messing with it, it has a target AFR and a few cool other things.

 

Lean is mean!!! all the cars are different, i sit in my dyno everyday saying that. if the factory timing isnt being taken out then the car is not knocking. his factory timing is perfect in his datalog. the sensitivity on the utec is way too much sometimes.

 

Ok.. Here is the parameter of my map right now.. Oh and there is another problem I am having now.. My car is idling kinda rough.. With this map my car wasn't starting.. So I changed my map to the '0' then it started fine.. And then i was driving on highway.. It suddenly throws SES.. So.. I gonna go to Pepboys or Autozone tomorrow and see what's happening.. Anyway.. Any suggestion would help thanks guys.. Oh.. And another thing.. Do I supposed to be using open loop fueling? Or does it matter?? Thanks guys..

 

Oh.. I changed the knock sensitivity, but i haven't got chance to run my car yet.. and even with stock map '0' my car seems very rough idling and kinda jumpy right around 3 ~ 4000 RPM.. Maybe one of my sensor got burned.. HOpefully I can figured it out tomorrow when I go to the shop..

 

You Gotta be Kidding right ? Did i see 13.2 allover the Target AFR ? or something else is wrong ?

I know what you did about keeping the stock timing is so good when you start tuning as said before you should start tuning the AFR then the timing, but what you did for the AFR isn`t about right, because you don`t need 13 on the entire range, you would need it only at higher than 70 load site, and also the transition should be smooth you won`t need 13 on the entire rpm range at crusing (0 load site), i guess this is the cause of rough idle and the knock. try smooth things out, if you did 13 at 5000 RPM then 12.5 at 5250 RPM then again 13 at 5500 RPM i guess you will see knock there, it happened with me and after i smooth it out the knock went away, except at higher RPMs such as 6500 and sometimes at 6250.

Try using this Target AFR map, i`ve done a 13 AFR MAP but i was getting knock at 5250 RPM and 6500 RPM i know this knock due to lean condition because i`ve connected the Wideband Sensor on the Passenger side which is the leaner side, that`s why i did another Target AFR with 12.5 at the higher load sites.

PLEASE Jeremy check this Target AFR map, if there`s something wrong tell me where.

 

UH.. I didn't use the Auto Tune at all.. I just put those values in the targetmap for no reason I guess.. I have sensor on passenger side also.. So maybe I'll try to change the AFR to 12.8 or so.. And see..

 

You could richen up or pull about 1 degree of timing, but that would cut some power. My recommendation is if you want to run it hard, just add a few gallons of 100 octane unleaded.

Also, minor knocking is not going to kill your N/A motor IMO. If your knocking starts to sound like ball bearings getting shaken around in a tin can, popcorn popping style, then you might have problems.

 

But I don't think we have 100 octane unleaded in CA.. Or at least not in bakersfield.. sucks..

 

If you look around, you may find some 76 stations that have 100 octane. I live in los angeles and there are a couple around here with 100.

If not, you might be able to pick up a couple barrels of race fuel (make sure to get unleaded) from somewhere...

 

Ok.. Now.. What does putting 100 octane fix?? Do I have to keep putting those gases into my car? Or just one time only.. Thanks for helping me out..

 

if you mix some 100 octane in with your standard 91 octane... you will get a higher average octane.

this will prevent knock because the gasoline burns a little bit slower, preventing that last bit of fuel vapor from "popping" in the cylinder

in any case, you don't have to know "why" but the fact is, higher octane (7-8 gallons of 100 oct should be plenty, your fuel tank is 20.0 gallons total) will stop the knock

what I would do if I were you is have 2 maps on your utec... 1 for normal driving, which should be like your current map but subtract 1-2 degrees of timing. the other map should be a performance map. Keep it as is, and when you use this map make sure to have some higher octane fuel in the tank.

 

Thanks.. I'll go see if there is 100 octane in bakersfield.. I only see 2 76 in bakersfield.. HAHA.. Sucks.. If I cut 1-2 degrees of timing.. Will it effect on my HP a lot?