It just stay 25+ at the end so I let off....

 

How does the car feel when it does that? I'm not sure where, but at some point there won't be enough fuel for combustion.

Do you think the car is really that lean, or do you think there could be a problem with the sensor/connection? Do you have an actual read out for the sensor?

 

Is there a way I can get a reading from the sensor? For the short time that I'm in the lean condition before I get scared and left off, it feels the same, doesn't feel like I'm really leaning out, the injector duty doesn't show anything weird.

I'm guessing what I need to do now is either, replace my o2 sensor, replace my fuel pump, TN fuel assembly mods are doing something weird so fix that, or there might be a problem with my utec and TN reflash working together...

Probably going to replace my o2 first since its the easiest I think... unless anyone has a better suggestion..... thanks for all the help btw, esp. KP.

 

I would start with the O2 sensor. If the car was really that lean, you would feel it. Anything over 25:1 a/f should result in a complete misfire, with no combustion actually taking place (http://www.racelogic.co.uk/?show=Tra...l-How_it_Works - check out the fuel cut section towards the bottom).

What kind of a/f sensor do you have?

 

I've noticed that your tuner software is out of date. You can find the newest vers. http://www.turboxs.com/tunerupdate.htm

Load the new software then take another data log. I suspect it is portion of the map you are tracing through.

thanks,

Jermaine~

 

So I reflashed the Tuner (Thanks Jermaine), added more fuel and less timing.... pretty much same result....

I'm too chicken to floor it and hold it through the lean condition to verify that its the sensor....

Something just dawned on me though, I remember after I first finished my install and got it on the dyno, the afr readings did this sort of deal (thought it was the stock cats; they gone now anyways), however the afr probe was showing good readings... so since that just crossed my mind, I'm going to change out the bosch sensor first... Hopefully it has nothing to do with the tuner itself...

 

This is helpful for the FI guys... Just installed in my car, works great, although I'm not FI (yet)... You'll want to leave the oem widebands intact, & add a separate bung for the 02 sensor for this gauge.

Wideband - Single channel AFR gauge;
http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=67

 

The OP already has an aftermarket wideband sensor (The TurboXS Tuner). It feeds the wideband data right to the UTEC, but doesn't have a display on it.

 

Now if i could just get the stupid NAV-TV thing to show like your's KP.... Then I wouldn't have such a hardtime monitoring my w/b scaring the crap outta me

 

It looks like you start experiencing the lean condition only after you exceed 5 volts on your MAF sensor input. Are you sure your MAP sensor is OK / you're using it appropriately? Not to point any fingers, but it seems like a pretty strong correlation -- your car is running like a champ until it hits 5V on the MAF in all the datalogs I've seen.

 

Good call. Didn't even notice that. That is your problem. I think most MAF sensors max out around 5V. Interesting part is that the ECU usually will throw a code when you reach that voltage. Perhaps UTEC control has an effect where the CEL is masked. Anyways.....notice that your MAF voltage, which corresponds to air flow, steadily increases with RPMs? That is expected behavior but also take note how the log hits 5V and stays at 5V even though you're still climbing in RPMs. That to me is a dead giveaway you're maxing out your MAF sensor. There's no way your flow will remain this constant as you climb through RPMs. You're falling off the top end of the sensor and your fueling can't get there from here because you don't really know what you're flowing at this point. And you're not even near the top of your RPM range yet and this is the warm season When things start getting cold in the fall, this will get much worse. Looks to me like it's time for a big MAF setup.

 

I hit 5vdc on my MAF sensor all the time and I don't have any lean readings.

If I'm not mistaken the UTEC reads in the raw MAF voltage and then outputs a clamped voltage to the OEM ECU, preventing the light from turning on.

I believe the 3rd column in is the raw MAF voltage and the 2nd to last column is the modified voltage that the ECU sees.

Either way, it wouldn't really matter, as the UTEC uses the MAP sensor to tune, and you are well passed the switching threshold. MAF voltage, at that point, should be irrelevent, as MAP signals are all that matter.

 

Interesting. I was under impression that you have a choice which sensor to use when using UTEC. You can go with the MAF or MAP. Is that true? My knoweldge of UTEC specifics is limited so I could be way off on this.

 

Post your maps so I can see where you are in the load sites and what parameters you are using.

thanks,

Jermaine~

 

Not with FI you don't, you have to run speed density mode, which requires the MAP sensor.

This is because, at around 8psi of boost, you'll max your MAF sensor out just past 5000RPM.

 

This is a dead give away that there is something wrong with your WB.

If I were you, I would either replace the wideband, or strap the car back down to the dyno and make some pulls using their a/f guage, then comparing it to yours. The numbers probably won't match up very well, but the curve will. When I dyno my car we just throw the dynos O2 sensor in my tailpipe. It reads about 0.5 points higher then mine, but it produces the exact same line as my in car O2 sensor.

If you can get the dyno O2 to read correctly while the in car sensor goes 'crazy lean' you'll know that the problem is most likely with your WB.

 

Assuming you're in speed density mode and your MAP sensor is functioning correctly... (which it looks like it is, we're seeing valid pressure readings in the logs) Can we see a copy of the parameters file?

 

These are my maps, I'm going to get on a dyno this weekend hopefully and check the o2 sensor. And hopefully I can dial in the tune a little smoother on the dyno while I'm at it... I got slicks comming, I need to get some timeslips asap Thanks again for all the input guys!