widwband sensor location
Originally Posted by bleunetizen
Many people recommend putting wideband sensor onto drivers side cat/testpipe.
Is there any reason why you guys are doing it to the drivers side?
Is there any reason why you guys are doing it to the drivers side?
Mine is just on the drivers side. I am NA and really not that concerned with a perfect air fuel. My settings keep me safe and produce power, that is all I care about.
However, I do highly recommend mounting the O2 sensor on the upstream neck of the cat/test pipe and NOT on the header. This is due to service reasons. Basically, the sensor will eventually burn out. So, you will have to replace it and it is much easier to service a cat than a header.
However, I do highly recommend mounting the O2 sensor on the upstream neck of the cat/test pipe and NOT on the header. This is due to service reasons. Basically, the sensor will eventually burn out. So, you will have to replace it and it is much easier to service a cat than a header.
Originally Posted by THE TECH
One side is as good as another if you are only gonna do 1 channel. IMHO you should have a dual channel setup for any type of V motor.
But if only one then put it on the driver side because AFR is leaner on B2 than on B1 (at least on all VQ35DE AFR logs that I have seen)
I had my WB O2 bung welded on B2 (Driver's side) just behind the factory WB O2, cost me 20 bucks... I really need to go dual channel now...
If you want to use the stock bungs, I would suggest getting (2) Bosch or VW WB O2 sensors. Because mis-matching O2 sensors will (can) result in a less accurate AFR between B1 & B2.
If you want to use the stock bungs, I would suggest getting (2) Bosch or VW WB O2 sensors. Because mis-matching O2 sensors will (can) result in a less accurate AFR between B1 & B2.
Last edited by gothchick; Jun 13, 2007 at 12:44 PM.
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The O2's behind the Cats are not Wide Band. They're just part of the feed-back loop. The O2's upstream of the Cats are what the ECU/UTEC uses to monitor & adjust AFRs.
The stock Wideband O2's are Bosch, but the pin out on the stockers are not compatible with the AEM or UTEC Tuner, so you'll probably need to have a secondary bung/ O2 welded to read AFRs with the AEM or UTEC Tuner.
In a nutshell; You adjust your tune with the stock WB O2's (or aftermarkets), but you can only read AFRs with an aftermarket WB O2.
Consult II & Cipher will give you MAF voltages, that you can then interpolate to an AFR, but that is a PITA.
The stock Wideband O2's are Bosch, but the pin out on the stockers are not compatible with the AEM or UTEC Tuner, so you'll probably need to have a secondary bung/ O2 welded to read AFRs with the AEM or UTEC Tuner.
In a nutshell; You adjust your tune with the stock WB O2's (or aftermarkets), but you can only read AFRs with an aftermarket WB O2.
Consult II & Cipher will give you MAF voltages, that you can then interpolate to an AFR, but that is a PITA.
Last edited by gothchick; Jun 14, 2007 at 06:33 AM.
Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
did you guys have to pay to have a bung put in or are you using the stock bungs?
Originally Posted by Eyrks31
For the guys that did it themselves, was it neccessary to remove the cat or pipe when welding the bung?
Originally Posted by THE TECH
Best way is to remove them so when you cut the holes you can get the metal shavings out of the holes.
Thanks for the info, i guess gaskets need replacing. Gonna install mines soon.
Nope, don't worry about the gaskets. Those things are tough and rarely need replacing. Anyhow, it is easy enough to drop a cat that you can always replace the gasket in the future should it go bad.
As for the sensor, put it on the driver's side cat, upstream of the cat body. Get under the car and look at the driver cat. Right near the header, you will see a space on the in-board side of the cat neck. There is plenty of room there for the sensor. Hold the sensor up to that spot and find the best placement. Mark the right spot with a marker. Now, remove the cat, drill at the marked spot, weld the bung and replace the cat. That's it.
As for the sensor, put it on the driver's side cat, upstream of the cat body. Get under the car and look at the driver cat. Right near the header, you will see a space on the in-board side of the cat neck. There is plenty of room there for the sensor. Hold the sensor up to that spot and find the best placement. Mark the right spot with a marker. Now, remove the cat, drill at the marked spot, weld the bung and replace the cat. That's it.
Originally Posted by peptidbond
Nope, don't worry about the gaskets. Those things are tough and rarely need replacing. Anyhow, it is easy enough to drop a cat that you can always replace the gasket in the future should it go bad.
As for the sensor, put it on the driver's side cat, upstream of the cat body. Get under the car and look at the driver cat. Right near the header, you will see a space on the in-board side of the cat neck. There is plenty of room there for the sensor. Hold the sensor up to that spot and find the best placement. Mark the right spot with a marker. Now, remove the cat, drill at the marked spot, weld the bung and replace the cat. That's it.
As for the sensor, put it on the driver's side cat, upstream of the cat body. Get under the car and look at the driver cat. Right near the header, you will see a space on the in-board side of the cat neck. There is plenty of room there for the sensor. Hold the sensor up to that spot and find the best placement. Mark the right spot with a marker. Now, remove the cat, drill at the marked spot, weld the bung and replace the cat. That's it.
So with my RHS drive Zed, it will be the passenger side wouldn;t it???
Last edited by Eyrks31; Jun 15, 2007 at 02:11 AM.
Originally Posted by bleunetizen
I fit the sensor in today, I did it to right hand side cat, passenger side for US, drivers site for JP/NZ/AU/etc..
the reading seems legit too.
the reading seems legit too.
I put mine on the stock y-pipe using the uego2000 wideband. I logged the turbo xs wideband and mine at the same time(xs wideband sensor on pass side) and it is not too far off. I just made the adjustments and now i know what to look for. i see 11.0 and xs saw 11.5. and a little delay about 300 rpms or less!



