I really think we need a dyno sticky here, mostly for before/after dynos to show gains and losses of different parts, but also to get an idea of how much power different setups make.

Am I alone on this one? Anyone that can help make this happen?

I have no problems throwing some dynos on the table to get this rolling

 

 

does anyone that hasn't modded and dyno'd know what it would take to dyno EVERY mod?...

I have tons of mods and have dyno'd... I would guestimate 50 pulls (or more) 7 or 8 different times... but I've done WAY more than 7-8 tweaks/mods.

Sorry to be the bummer... but only manufacturers are going to tell you what each and every mod will do. And we all know how reliable that is (unless you find independent testing).

 

Well my roadster is stock and we've got a dyno in house so we run the car after every change. I'm sure there are other shops around that are doing the same sort of thing, i mean just look at honda-tech those guys are dyno feinds. They go to the dyno every time they touch their car!

I'll get a few dyno's up just give me a few minutes, hopefully this gets the ball rolling.

There don't have to be before/afters either, sometimes its nice just to see what guys are making with different combinations!

Talk to you soon boys,

Sasha

 

Between different climates, different dynos, different engines, different XXXX, it makes it almost useless to compare each other's dynos. Best would be to show your gains on the same dyno time after time, but that's going to be hard to compile.

 

Guys don't be so negative, weather, dyno and climate changes can all be accounted for somewhat - but the point is this is for fun and just to get an idea of what guys are and have been doing! Climate is tuned into almost all dynos, and we have a pretty general idea of what dynos read relative to each other.

Besides, its winter, who doesn't like a little bench racing?

So here is a dyno of a Revup 6MT G35 we were doing some testing on for modified magazine, and our roadster (also revup obviously) with a custom intake and y-pipe back exhaust. Don't take this as a before after comparison though, they are two different cars!



Roadster Revup 6MT:
SG Cold air intake
Y-pipe back exhaust

G35 Revup 6MT:
Stock

I'll get the before/after dynos for the G35 as well where we did stock, exhaust, exhaust + pop charger, exhaust + pop charger + spacer, exhaust + pop charger + spacer + mrev2

 

Spoken for truth...

 

Ok so here is a comparison of the following:

all on the same day, same dyno, car was only taken off the dyno to install exhaust.

G35 6MT

Stillen Popcharger
Stillen true-dual exhaust
Motordyne 5/16 spacer
Motordyne MREV2

 

whats the price of installment on the mrev2?

 

Free if you DIY. Its a very easy install.

 

Here it is... +1 on a sticky


sorry, no scanner had to take a pic

 

My dyno for Motordyne Engineering done at MRC, first pull was with nismo exhaust, second was with mrev2, then spacer/mrev2, all were done while the car was still on the dyno, so its a good indicator of before and after, Julian made sure the temps were the same, i think he checked the intake manifold temps.

 

sgsash, why was there such a big drop off it seems like after the mrev2 install? And with the popcharger, it actually makes power? Every thread I read about the popcharger is always back and forth with if the popcharger makes power or not as good as the 06 airbox for the 350z.

 

Now we're getting some dyno's! keep them coming boys, and list what mods you have at the time of your posting, so that if your signature changes (with updated mods for example) people don't get confused with what they are looking at.

So the pop charger we did found that it made some jam, which makes sense considering we were removing a slightly dirty factory air filter, and replacing it with a brand new less restrictive k&n. Whether it makes more power than a drop in K&N I do not know, but it didn't seem to be much of an intake.

You have to remember an mrev2 is a modified non-revup plenum. The revup plenum is designed to flow more at high rpm, it seems 6150 seems to be the point when the revup plenum is making more torque than even a modified non-revup. However, for 99% of people who daily drive the car or even go to lapping days with a stockish rev limit, the mrev is the way to go. Way more midrange and actually more peak power, just at a lower rpm.

Guys that are building 7500+ rpm engines may however find other alternatives I would think. The cosworth manifold seems to be the best option out there so far I'm thinking.

 

+1. try slapping on some test pipes, see if the increased velocity at high RPM's helps eliminate that huge drop in power when youre nearing redline. that plunge in power up there is one of the reasons im not gonna buy an MREV2 till I at least see a way to eliminate it...

 

I have an mrev2 and spacer, and y drop off is nothing like that, it drops off to the same level as the peak of my baseline, why do you think that is? Maybe its because my exhaust isn't anything to crazy, its just a nismo

 

yeah, try puting some test pipes on. they might help the top end out....

 

I know the drop as it approaches redline can be a sticking issue for some, but even with it, the average power in any gear or driving condition is higher. Daily driving or maxed out 1/4 mile racing, it's higher.

 

Hey TOny,

I was just wondering why my drop isn't that bad, it looks like it actually drops back to the peak of my baseline, so I have all the benefits of the power under the curve but still maintain the peak of the rev-up.

 

Results can vary from car to car. Its probably due to the variability of each cars stock tune and variation of A/F ratio.

On a non REVUP engine the combination tends to raise the A/F ratio. Revup engines generally respond better to mods by compensating the A/F as needed.

Some stock cars run lean and some run rich. The cars that run rich usually have a better time adjusting to mods.