How many of you guys run a wideband per bank? From most people's pics it looks like most are only running one.

How do you choose which bank for the bung?

 

flip a coin onm which side, doesn't matter really.. i just upped to dual

 

Yea my plan is for dual also.. But most seem to run single from what i've seen which i thought was odd. They've got $20,000 in an engine. Whats $400 more.

 

And while where at it I guess.. What wideband does everyone prefer. I use to believe Innovate LC-1 was king.. But seems there as reliable as an 80 year old with alzheimer's..

Started looking at the PLX DM100 with the Bosch Sensor

 

I had a bung put into each downpipe. every now and again, I'll switch the wideband from one side to the other. the empty side just gets a plug.

 

Bank 2 usually run a little leaner than bank 1, so people usually tune from bank 2...

 

driver side usually runs a little leaner at full throttle, passenger side runs leaner at part and no throttle.

we always tune from the driver side with a WB in the passenger side to monitor it...

 

on my HFC the bung is after the cat, does that matter. I would figure you want the bung before the cat. I have the berk HFC's.

 

O2 should be pre-cat

 

The sensors are pretty much ALL bosch sensors. . .what makes the difference is the controller for that sensor. Crappy controller = low resolution, inaccurate, and laggy AFR readings. I haven't seen anyone complaining about LC-1's. Most people seem to use AEM UEGOs, or LC-1's that I know.

 

+1

Sensors can = Bosch or VW... Bosch is better.

I got TXS Tuner Reg on bank2 (Driver's side) for tuning, and AEM UEGO on Bank1 (Passnger side) for monitoring. The AEM is much higher resolution & quicker reacting than TXS, but I tune with the TXS because it logs seamlessly with UTEC..

 

I believe the LC-1 is the only setup on the market to let you know that your sensor needs to be replaced. Also, I would preferr to have a system that I can take the 10 seconds every 3 months to have the sensor relearn knowing that the sensor does wear overtime. I would think twice about buying a sensor that builds in a tolerance into the system to compensate for manufacturing differences like most do. In cruising around here, I found a thread that has a pdf linked to it that has a comparason of a bunch of WB. I will see if I can find the link to help you make your decision.


edit: Found it
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=326988

 

+1 on this question.

 

It does matter. You should always take the measurements pre-CAT. If you install a WB after a CAT, you'll be reading leaner than what you're really running at.

 

The wideband HAS TO BE upstream of the cat.

 

so HFC's and having the wideband after the cat is pretty much worthless?

 

The O2 up stream of the cat is used for fueling. After the cat it is there to make sure the cat is functioning. The cat does something to the exahuast....don't know exactly what.....but it does something. To answer your question, it is worthless after the cat. I would suggest keeping the WB as close to the engine as possible and after all the primaries have collected into one exhaust pipe. Understand?

 

All the cat does is burn the exhaust fumes more completely to lower emissions. It does this by passing the exhaust through a super heated honey comb (either metalic or ceramic). The disadvantage is that they lean out the exhaust AFRs post-cat, create more back pressure in the process, and are heavy compared to test pipes.

Here's a pic of the inside of one of my old random tech hi-flow cats, and you can see why they create a bottle neck in the exhaust.

 

well i guess the Berk HFC's were not engineered right because the wideband port is behind the cat. IDIOTS!

 

Is this a fact? If so, then I will try to mount the tuning wideband in the drivers side as well. How has this been proven? Just curious.