I had my car tuned by a well know shop in Gaithersburg, MD. I personally thought that they did a good job at the time. Months have passed now and I've noticed a couple of things that’s starting to Pi** me off, but I'm not sure if it is the tune, the EMS or some other things going on. Well I'm pretty sure nothing is up with the car. When boost kicks in 50% of the time it comes on nice and smooth but the other 50 it feels like a 100 shot of NOS. Prior to the car going into the shop my wideband read perfect numbers for an untuned car that is. After the tune it jumps all over the place, even at idle. The owner/tuner there told me it was the 02 sensor. I've recently changed that and it still does the same thing. WTF!

 

what kind of EMS are you using?

 

Turbo XS utech

 

there is no h
and from what you are saying I would guess its more of a tune issue then an O2 sensor issue, like you are suggesting

 

The temps are changing drastically. Utecs dont have that of great temp compensation. Did your tuner even put values in for those fields?

Idle is controlled by the stock ECU, so that shouldnt change

 

To be honest, I don't know and being that this particular shop locks the UTEC there is no way for me to tell. The car runs nice and strong, its just the wideband that is driving me crazy. I can still look @ my ETG to give me a little heads up on what is going on.

 

damn why they hell would the lock your utec?
can you request them to unlock it? or give you the code

 

I'm assuming that they have a super top secret map that they don't want anyone to have besides them selves and Mr. President. Gaining access to this map is a matter of national security and all the people of the world including midgets would be caused great harm.

I'm just joking about the midget thing but I don't know dude.

 

I heard Forged does that 2

 

One of the problems with the UTEC is very "rough" temperature compensation. I would take it back for a winter tune and save that as another map. Most tuners will stand behind their tune for a period of time. If the season has changed then you just have to accept that this is a limitation of the UTEC and retuning (and repayment) is necessary (it's not the tuner's fault that a re-tune is necessary to adjust for temperature changes). Also the locked tune is their way of protecting themselves from you and from protecting their tune from other fly by night tuners. In the end, it allows them to put a warranty behind their tune, which is protection for you.

 

So noone can go in and change the tune. This could open up the possibility of tuning it wrong and can lead to engine failure. This will then go back to the tuner, who would be accused of tuning failure.

Also, they probably do not want their tunes getting spread around.


Just a thought.

 

There has been a huge thread about this... In my opinion Utec should be an exception and shouldn't be locked....

 

I guess that would be the only logical explanation for that. Most tuners don't cover anything anyway if failure does happen; their disclaimer is in the waiver that many of us don't read prior to a tune or a dyno run. With that being said lets not get too far off topic! LOL, so no thoughts on the crazy wideband?

 

What wideband is it?

 

It's the Autometer one.

 

^^ how is it you are giving tuning advice in another thread?

If you cant log or look at your tune, no one can help you. Go back to your tuner and have them update the temperature compensation and adjust the column 0 fuel values.

 

What tuning advice? I gave basic knowledge buddy. Should I place a quote of me from the other thread? I would be an A$$ hole if I knew something or an answer to a question and I didn’t spread my knowledge, But I thank you for posting!

 

Yeah, I'm not sure if you will be able to log your AFR on your own with the Autometer one - so you can't street tune it on your own.

 

pick up a cipher cable if you have a later model z and log your stock widebands that way.

 

are stock wideband readings reliable and accurate enough for tuning?