I also did the Osiris tune and have the limiter on my 05 At at 7k. Its is a great improvement but seriously guys get the FD swap and you will enjoy it even more I have the stock 3.5FD and it makes a big difference instead of the 3.3Fd.

 

What else do you need to swap out to get the 3.5?

 

sorry if i thought of the wrong person, could have sworn it was your car. i remember reading a thread similiar and saw pictures of somebody's oil pump being scattered at high rpms-this discussion was about 2-3 yrs ago, i tried searching a minute ago and found some old threads like that but not the exact one from my memory.

but i see you have a rev-up oil pump, obviously you learned the stock one can't spin up the high in the de i assume.

 

a new oil pump is mandatory when building a new engine anyway - I never had any issues with my oil pump with my stock motor, and when it came time to do my build, the revup or the NISMO pumps were the choices - I decided on the revup and so far, so good, 2.5 years later

 

OOOOO cant wait to have mine done! Arnold when are we going to see some track times out of your tuned auto??

Also my car holds power really good up to the stock redline according to my dyno. I dont know what it would look like after that but I'd probably stick with 7000 also.

 

I just got my final e-tune done. I had a bit of a mixup and the first file I uploaded was just a base tune file. The guys at Osiris thought I wanted to do my own tuning since I had the tuner version of Osiris (I only had it because I bought this used from SOLO). Anyways, when they sent me a base map I uploaded it and I felt a performance kick for a day, until the ECU basically reset itself back to all of its crappy AFR settings and such. It's all good though, the guys at Osiris made everything happen for me and I highly recommend this as your solution to tune your car.

But today, I got the actual E-tune and sweet Moses is this amazing. Even in 2nd gear @ 3000RPM, the car pulls really, really hard, which I've never felt before. First gear is just an absolute monster - it flies by so quick and the impact of your head back into the seat when you floor it is amazing. I laughed hysterically when I launched the car from 20MPH in 1st and then into 2nd - the power is amazing, I never thought I'd feel this from my Z. Hell, even flooring it at 40MPH in 4th gear gives me a whole lot more power to make a pass, before I'd have to use 3rd. Same goes for when you're going 60. Before, I'd have to pass in 3rd gear. But now 4th is just right in doing so.

Also, bumping the RPMs by 300 really helps when you shift, because it makes power all the way up to my new redline and shifts into a very, very meaty powerband.

My power mods are:
Borla True Dual
Magnaflow X-Pipe
Ultimate Racing HFCs
JWT Popcharger
MotorDyne 5/16 Spacer

And now it's all tuned.

 

I gotta ask.....why not get it dyno tuned...there are a couple competent tuners in your area.

 

its ashame i live down the street from uprev and haven't gotten this done yet.

 

It costs too much from what I've seen.

 

Didn't you buy the tuner version? That's considerable more than just a reflash with tune.

 

I bought it used. Plus, buying Osiris means I can resell it for practically the same cost when I choose to sell the car. It barely loses any value - I can't do that with a dyno tune.

More reasons why Osiris is amazing and the best option to go for.

 

Does the uprev e tune change shifting characteristics of the 5at? Also does the cipher read the oem widebands in volts or ratio?

 

I wouldn't know about the shifting, I never drive the car in D.

And I'd check my logs to answer your second question, but they're on my laptop. I'm sure someone else knows for sure, though.

 

No reflasher or any standalone or piggy can alter the TCM directly.

Although I think the reflash can alter the shift logic indirectly. I've found that the improved throttle response also brings the shifting sooner. But that's probably a natural effect of getting to pre-determined speed/rpm values sooner. ie... the TCM sees the values it uses to shifter sooner than before, therefore shifting a bit sooner.

 

As well you should

 

Just FYI. We would never rev a motor past the stock RPM limit unless it was built. If a customer asks for it, we recommend against it, but thats the customers choice.

If anyone wants to tell you it is safe, and bro don't worry they do it and they never had a problem. Ask them for a full coverage warranty and if they are ok with that then believe them. Otherwise stick to stock RPM limit till you build your motor.

 

Why do you not drive your car in D for auto? You have an auto, right? I only asked about changes in shifting characteristics because you mentioned chirping tires into 2nd in post #6, is this normal for you then? That was with a base map to, man you must be smoking those tires with your e tune.

Hey I was looking for insight from a 5at Osiris tuned owner, and you provided no help whats so ever.

For any future 5at owners looking to get Osiris tuned, they do not touch any parameters that pertain to the transmission.

 

If you buy a DSG/DCT equipped car, that doesn't mean you have to drive in an auto. I bought the auto because it gives me the ability to shift my own gears, without a pesky clutch during an hour long traffic jam.

Actually, yeah, the tire thing is a pretty iffy situation now. My Michelins don't catch traction in 1st and much of 2nd gear (with 70% tread too). So I swapped to my Dunlop Wintersports, and so far it's the same deal, too much power and I can't put it down properly. 265 rears for me soon. So yeah, tires are struggling after the tune - it's never been like that before.

I'm sorry? It didn't seem like you wanted a whole lot of information on the matter...I think I've been pretty clear with how the car's behaving after the tune.

 

The only reason to bump the rev limiter to 7200 RPM on the non revups would be to avoid bumping off the stock rev limiter.

Like others have said, on stock cams/block, you are not doing yourself any good in revving a non-revup up to 7200 RPM. The Revup has some modifications to help it produce better power up top.

Point being, shift at the stock redline (6700rpm for non revups, 7100 RPMS for revups).

It's all about averaging the best HP under the curve (for those math majors out there, think of Riemann sums).

 

I only asked 2 questions in my post, I did not think I was asking alot. The things I asked were not really covered here, more about rev range.

I get it I have an auto to, but don't sell yourself short, let the auto (D) save you hassle and gas. Then slide the the shift lever over and have fun, then slide it back. It just sounds like you are a little embarrassed in having an auto.

So have you figued out my second question? Does the AFR show in ratio or volts on the logger?