how important is it that i get a newer z that has the wideband?
how important is it that i get a newer z that has the stock wideband? I was thinking about getting a 2003 350z but they dont have the wideband. I was thinking I would like to do a turbo in the far future.
Considering that 350Zs have significant differences such as motors, narrow band - wide band sensors is way down the list of important features.
Last edited by davidv; Feb 10, 2010 at 08:10 PM.
If you plan on FI, you should plan on aftermarket widebands regardless of which year you purchase - so it is a non-issue. The only time I would give weight to the oem-wideband issue is people wishing to stay NA and wanting to do a reflash e-tune.
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Uprev wouldn't be able to reflash an 03 without a wideband?
There is no problem reflashing an 03, but when Etuning, consider the quality of a narrowband log vs wideband. A reflash dynotune would not have this problem, as the dyno will have a wideband to use while tuning.
My ride is 03 NA and is still on narrowband.
If I am getting it dyno tuned *tuner has wideband*, should I still replace the narrowband with wideband sensors? I know it won't make any diff when tuning as the tuner will be using the dyno/wideband, but will it make any diff when the tune is completed and its running off the tuned ECU and reading from the narrowband?
If I am getting it dyno tuned *tuner has wideband*, should I still replace the narrowband with wideband sensors? I know it won't make any diff when tuning as the tuner will be using the dyno/wideband, but will it make any diff when the tune is completed and its running off the tuned ECU and reading from the narrowband?
If I choose to stay on narrowband for now after dyno tuning the haltech ecu with tuner's wideband, and subsequent I decide to put in the haltech wideband, do I require a retune or is it PnP?
^ You should have mentioned you were on standalone before... The Haltech Wideband controller kit (including sensors) is a complete addon including the sensor(s), wiring, and controller. You can have the car tuned without and add at a later date - but I would advise you add everything first and then visit your tuner.
Thanks for your advise.
I am looking at your website for the haltech 2x wideband and 1x guage going for 349.
Shouldn't there be 2 guages to see the readings from the 2 wideband? With only 1 guage there, is a button to switch the readings between the right and left wideband?
http://www.injectedperformance.com/e....aspx?ID=10518
I am looking at your website for the haltech 2x wideband and 1x guage going for 349.
Shouldn't there be 2 guages to see the readings from the 2 wideband? With only 1 guage there, is a button to switch the readings between the right and left wideband?
http://www.injectedperformance.com/e....aspx?ID=10518
^ You should have mentioned you were on standalone before... The Haltech Wideband controller kit (including sensors) is a complete addon including the sensor(s), wiring, and controller. You can have the car tuned without and add at a later date - but I would advise you add everything first and then visit your tuner.
^ An additional gauge can be ordered, but the reality is no one can watch and analyze two wideband readings, tach, street, etc all at once. The dual widebands are best used for two things: haltech bank-specific fuel trims, and tuning. When tuning - you will have the ECU manager open displaying/logging both wideband readings, so again you don't need dual gauges. A switch can easily be configured to toggle between which sensor the gauge reads out if desired.
In the end, a pillar or console mounted gauge is best used as a quick check during a pull to ensure everything is still running proper, thus only requiring one gauge.
In the end, a pillar or console mounted gauge is best used as a quick check during a pull to ensure everything is still running proper, thus only requiring one gauge.
^ An additional gauge can be ordered, but the reality is no one can watch and analyze two wideband readings, tach, street, etc all at once. The dual widebands are best used for two things: haltech bank-specific fuel trims, and tuning. When tuning - you will have the ECU manager open displaying/logging both wideband readings, so again you don't need dual gauges. A switch can easily be configured to toggle between which sensor the gauge reads out if desired.
In the end, a pillar or console mounted gauge is best used as a quick check during a pull to ensure everything is still running proper, thus only requiring one gauge.
In the end, a pillar or console mounted gauge is best used as a quick check during a pull to ensure everything is still running proper, thus only requiring one gauge.
Thanks Hal! One more question if you don't mind.
I have Sprint Booster fitted (The one that amplify the throttle signal or something of that sort). Do you think it will interfere with the Haltech Dyno tune? Should it be taken off prioir to the tune? Should the tuner be aware that this item is fitted to the car?
^ No, the sprint booster only effects the drive by wire system and accelerator position. This will not be a problem with the Haltech so long as you keep it consistent (tune with it installed, drive with it installed). If you decide to remove it, it will still be very close, but may be have very slight difference in the transient throttle.
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