I've been noticing 2 things in my logs lately.

The 1st is at idle, my timing seems to jump all over the place. Car idles perfectly stable but the timing is getting logged as jumping from ~1* to ~20* and back to ~1*. The timing map has it set to ~20*

Once I start moving, timing follows my timing map. Wouldnt you expect the timing to be as flat as the rpm curve at idle?

The second thing is my driver's side VVT doesnt match my passenger side very well. You can see on this log that there is something wrong.

The wiring to the VVT solenoid on the the driver's side was messed up when my vortech cog belt snapped. It resulted in frying the VVT output on the stock ECU.

Even under normal driving the driver's side VVT has at lot more jitter/noise then the passenger side. Could it be a bad cam sensor? bad VVT solenoid?

Hope everyone had a nice holiday and didnt get pepper sprayed trying to get an Xbox.

 

I can speak about idle (car is HR version)
in my logs (cipher made) with 700rpm (little up than stock 650) ignition timings are 15 fixed, 2 "spike" movements to 16 in 1 minute log...

 

Ignition timing looks like it clears up once you give it a little throttle... could it be adaptive idle control that uses timing to help target idle? Are you using drive by wire control or stock ecu to control the throttle body?

As for variable cam timing... do you have proefi controlling the cams or stock computer? If proefi I would check the PIDs match for bank 1 and 2, and start with scoping the cam signals.

 

Yes, the timing is spot on once i hit the gas. yes it does use adaptive idle control, so that is quite possible. Using stock ECU to control the TB. Car idles fine, but was curious. Not really sure what tables are being used when the stock ECU is in charge of the TB.

Proefi controls the cams. I'll double check the PIDs, but I'm almost sure they are the same. I will try logging allowing the stock ecu to control the cams to see if it is still as noisy

What would scoping the cam signals tell me? Why would you expect the signal to differ from what the Proefi is seeing?

Thanks Hal.

 

Scoping would show if there is a poor signal and/or erratic behavior.

 

I swapped IVT solenoid, and no real change.

Cam is still really noisy on the driver's side. I think I am going to run brand new wires to that solenoid, if i can find a new connector.

If that doesnt fix it, possibly could be the cam sensor....

 

I would bypass the cam phasing through the ProEFI and allow the stock ECU to handle it for testing purposes. I have never seen crazy cam timing curve like that, where it has jitter and doesn't match bank to bank.

 

ya thats my next thing to test before i start rewiring things. The jitter isnt quite as bad when I replaced the VVT solenoid and remapped my cam timing, but its still very rough and noisy.

I dont have individual PIDs for left and right cam, so i wouldnt think it would be a setup Proefi issue.

But who knows...

 

I saw the same with the drivers side cam jitter, replacing the cam position sensor fixed the problem.

I don't believe the cam can physically be adjusted as quickly as your log (and mine at the time) would suggest, that's why I went for the sensor.

 

Your car have always had these weird problems.

GL man.

 

Cam sensors are only 33$ new so I'll try that as well.

Didnt think about that much cam movement. Those are pretty big sweeps over a very short period of time. WOuld be hard to hit that on oil pressure changes i'd imagine.

 

So tried:
new IVT solenoid, no change.
new cam sensor, no change.
Plugged in stock ECU, still no change.

Both IVT solenoids get power from the same source and the jitter did not change by swapping ECUs. Means the issue is in the engine bay. I'm pretty sure that the cam is really moving erratically, because I can feel a subtle studder feel it when I am driving and the drivers side cam angle log is very jumpy.

Looks like I am going to have to try to find a scope and check the cam and IVT wires.

Could this be an mechanical issue? Could there be loss in oil pressure inside the block on the driver's side. I didnt assemble the engine, so I dont know how oil gets channeled from IVT to the cams. I also started to get the timing chain noise on this engine build as well, which was never present before. I know that is also related to oil pressure.

 

Try unplugging the IVT actuator then do a log. This might help show if its a signal issue or a mechanical / oil pressure issue.



With it unplugged it should stay close to 0 degrees. Maybe -2 +2 range.



Did you replace the wiring?

 

didnt replace the wiring yet. did a log with the drivers side off. some jitter up to ~2 degrees.

have to log the good passenger side to see if it jitters as much.

 

Oh ok.

Probably something with the wire. Maybe when it got messed up there was hidden damage. (the wire got pulled and broke some strands)


Ive got a IVT plug if you need one, im in Gboro

 

if you have an extra one you'd be willing to part with, i'd be appreciative. pm me with how much you want for it.

 

Did you figure out this issue?

I just un-phase locked my cams this weekend and when watching the cam angles at idle (map is zero'd out), it fluctuates on the intake side +/- .8 degree's and on the exhaust side +/- .4 degrees. Also Bank 1 and Bank 2 are not in sync. They are off from each other by about .6 - 1 degree.

Anyone have any thoughts as to why?

 

That's pretty normal at idle. Nothing id worry about.


What about when driving?

 

It's off a little during driving as well, albiet, not as much. At idle, on the exhaust side, I have Bank 1 reading around -.2 and Bank 2 reading around .4. That's a .6 degree difference. Of course, this bounces around alittle but I would assume, because the exhaust side is not controlled by oil pressure, that it would be pretty accurate. It does however seem to be more accurate than the intake side.

I did just find out that that my intake Bank 2 had come unplugged (probably when fiddling with the thermostat). Since it came unpludded, it hit the belt and damaged the wiring. Once I have that fixed, I will check to see exactly how much of a difference there is on the intake cams bank to bank.

I am wondering if my cam position sensors are bad or maybe, since I have had the these locked at 0 wich has thrown codes for so long, I need to reset the ECU.

 

I think your fine with how little off they are, the op in this thread had huge differences, as you can see in the first post.


Hopefully your b2 ivt driver is ok, if the wires got shorted out it might be damaged.