That is correct for the widebands. The two extra wires in the old harness are connected to the wideband pins on the brick. Dont know why they would wire nut those two wires together after they cut them.

I could almost swap this harness over to test it on my car but I would need to change back to the internal map sensor and not use the wideband feedback wires. May try it. Waiting to hear back something from Steve.

 

Sorry for the delayed response, been super busy lately. The wire nuts were originally on the wideband inputs. I removed the nuts (actually put them on the non-Haltech side of the O2 wires just so they wouldn't touch anything) and soldered/heatshrinked my wideband into the two inputs per the Haltech manual. I also tapped into the power and ground to use the wideband. I did NOT clean them up after removing the harness to send back to you though, which is what you're seeing in the 3rd pic.

The rest of it I did not want to touch, as I did not want to run the risk of damaging it further. The four wires to solder the wideband were a necessary evil, and were all heatshrinked/taped while the wideband was actually connected.

When you OHMed out the connections, were you also checking to see if there were shorts (one pin that is actually powering two or more wires)? That's what the problem seemed like; an injector was being held open 100% of the time. I believe Nissan uses a pulsed ground to fire the injectors, so it would be an injector wire shorted directly to a ground somewhere. Using the internal MAP sensor, I at least did not have any issues with the hack wiring for the external MAP.

The most surprising thing of this was that apart from the 1-2 injectors having a dead short, the rest of the functions of the Haltech still worked. I can about guarantee that the harness in that pics hasn't run a working engine in quite a while though.

 

Forgot to include that the wirenuts were probably there when I got the wideband to allow for the next owner to utilize the factory O2 sensors, which would need those wires intact. I removed the wirenuts to solder in the wideband, and used the old wirenuts to cap off the now-unused O2 wires. They should have been capped separately, so I believe you should have seen two of them, both on the red/black O2 wires.

 

I will check the injector pins for isolation.

You mind if I install a 4 pin connector for the widebands? May also switch the aux input that is missing the black wire for a 4 pin as well.

 

when i got the harness both 02 wires were wire-nutted together.

 

Go ahead and modify it as needed to test; I really don't have a use for it anymore since I bought the new harness from Hal

 

The Haltech harness is only ~$300.

 

Where'd you find them for $300? Dynosty wanted $600 for it

 

I bought one from Injected Performance for $305 over a year ago.

 

tested the injector pins 21,22,23 and 40,41,42 to the ECM ground pins 1,115,116....no dead shorts. Tested at the brick and the ecu connector. Tested at the haltech clips, both the haltech output and the input. No shorts.

The injectors appear to use pin 1 as ground. Pin 1 is in the same clip that goes to the haltech as the ecu to haltech injector/ignition outputs. The ecu does provide a ground for the injectors to fire.

To fire the ignition coils the ecu outputs current to a NPN transistor inside the coil pack.

Hate to say it but so far this harness checks out.

 

Dunno how, even Hal said the moment he put it on his car it displayed the same symptoms mine did. Try running it on your car to see what it does

 

i intend to do it to get rid of all the extra crap in my car and convert to cable tb =P

 

email me when when it becomes a nightmare and nothing works

 

will do =D gotta wait till tax time so i can get the haltech racepak(gps one for speedo lol) rest should be good wiring it directly to the haltech since i have no desire for bcm/abs/tcs =P cuz yah know.......................racecar lol

plus dont think i can do worse then the electrical grimlins that already play in my harness, ecm and engine will be last since its so far off =P

 

ya, you weren't exactly one of the many that make me cringe when they say they modified a wiring harness though.

 

Any luck with the harness?

 

working on the 335i this weekend. Got 7 codes and a flashing SES...misfire 4,5,6, p112D o2 sensor low, random multiple misfire ect. Car shaking like hell.

Would so rather be working on the Z. Plus thee wife has her parents up here this weekend! Hopefully monday.

 

How are things looking? Any time to try running the harness yet?

 

So I've been driving the car for the past month or so and everything is working pretty well. I don't think it's going to pass emissions though. I keep throwing codes for system too lean, and my OBD scanner is showing the fuel trims both maxed out at +25%. Of course, the Nissan ECU can't actually do anything with fuel since the Haltech handles everything, but I can't pass emissions with the check engine light as it is. AFRs are right at 14.7, so I know there is actually no correction needed. How should I take care of this? I could build a quick circuit to make the factory sensors always show the correct voltage so that the ECU doesn't think anything of it, but I don't know if that will actually work.

 

quick test, no good!

Ran it first on the suspect harness.....maybe should have run it on mine first since my car hasnt been run for a month or two. Car ran like crap. I was hesitant to leave it running for long without my widebands hooked up at all, much less not even talking to the haltech. It would rev but it was rough!!!
Trying to decide what I want to do about the widebands. I could convert both harnesses and my wideband over to delphi metripacks and test that way.

Then i ran it on my harness, she cranked and idled down nicely.

Noticed a smell of gas in the garage and a bit of haze. I also had the drives side fuel tank interior cap off (the one behind the drivers seat inside the unused space where a bose sub could be) but i have never smelled gas that much.

I really want to know what is inside the brick. None of the injector outputs were shorted to ground when i ohmed them out.