for timing map only, correct? you have inputted values for the fuel maps i assume?

 

Yes, sorry I should have clarified that. The timing map is copy through, the VE table is adjusted to give me a pretty smooth idle at this point.

 

If you end up needing a new Haltech, I just upgraded to one of the new plug and play modules (no need for the ECU) and I would be willing to sell you my old red box for a good price.

 

Just got a message from Hal, but $100 just to plug it in and test it seems way too steep to just swap it over and see if it even works. I'm going to swap the car back to stock this weekend. If it can drive 20+ miles on stock parts with the stock ECU without issues or check engine lights, it's enough confirmation for me that this Haltech is shot.

After going through 2 sets of injectors, firmware upgrades/downgrades, 2 widebands, new spark plugs, and all the troubleshooting I've done so far I'm pretty confident that either the Haltech or its harness are bad. I'll be 100% confident if it's drivable on all OEM parts especially since even with the 750s the stock ECU runs it better than the Haltech does.

 

good point but if it's just the harness then you are out a couple hundred dollars, if it's the unit you are out a couple thousand. You'll never know without it being tested unless you can find someone willing to ship you a harness to check. Strange that it worked fine in a previous car then didn't work in yours. Not that it can't happen, it's just odd.

 

Have you checked your oem harness for pins backing out? On mine the car ran great with the stock ECU since the pins were not under stress but as soon as i plugged in the haltech and routed the brick/harness i ran into issues.

Point to point on the haltech harness to check for shorts?

Almost sounds like a bad injector driver. When you swapped in the rc's/originals/oems did you set the impedance type right?

Thinking faulty injector driver?

 

Yeah, that was one of the things I had checked since it seemed intermittent. I'm thinking bad driver as well since it appears to be holding the injector open the entire time which is the only way it could possible dump that much fuel. Runs sorta ok at moderate throttle positions since its actually at a high enough load to burn all the extra fuel.

I did check the impedance on the injectors as well; so far all of the ones I have had are high impedance. Heading out now to swap everything back to stock to see how it drives.

 

have you put a meter on the injector wires? that will tell you if it is the driver

 

Ill give that a try while im out here. The plenum design of the Z doesn't lend itself real well to testing parts while the engine is running which is why I have not tried before.

 

nah probe at the ecu. way easier.

 

Stock injectors are back in on the nissan ecu and the car is driving perfectly. The haltech 100% for sure has something wrong with it, and at this point I'm comfortable considering that to be certain as I've tested every other variable at least twice.

 

as much as it sucks to pay 100$ to get it checked out it might be something that costs only 100-200$ to fix or could turn out to be the harness. Both things would be cheaper to replace or have fixed instead of buying a whole new ecu.

 

Ok, some updates. Hal tested the ECU and found that while the Haltech itself worked, the harness was shot. $600 later and the Z runs great. The annoying bit is that I've now got nearly the cost of the pro-plug in model in my red box pro harness ECU. Will be sending the harness back to Chris to see if he can repair it, not sure what will happen after that. At least the car runs now, nearly 3 months later.

 

Good to hear it was only the harness. It's insane that a harness of wires less than 2 feet long costs 600$ though.

 

Yeah I'm not real happy about that. Hopefully I'll be able to get my money back for the faulty harness.

Just got the larger injectors reinstalled and I'll be heading back out in a bit to see how well the tune translates to the 750s

 

Harness update

Got it back in the mail yesterday. First time I really looked at this thing. Dozer08b really screwed it up, or least his installer did.


-two red/bl wires snipped and wire nutted. these red wires are the 02 sensor feedback for bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 2. Newer haltech harnesses do not have these wires. more on that later
-orange wire for external map had a red jumper installed so it went to ground. It appears to have been clipped.
-several wires near the brick were nicked. Covered with ugly electrical tape.
-1 wire, green, near the brick was nicked but not covered with tape
-Physical difference from 1 harness to the next. The white clip that has all the auxillary clips on its branch from the main brick harness. On the Dozer8 harness it has 23 wires, on mine and all current silver box pros with the extra 4 pin connector it has 21. Not sure why haltech changed it and how it will effect getting a replacement harness. It can be easily wired to have the additional 4 pin connector.

-Other notes about the Haltech. I probably could have generated a full pinout list but it was already time consuming enough during the repair procedure.
-Ignition and Injector pins do not go to the oem ECU from the brick. The pins are in both connectors but they are not wired from the brick to the oem ecu. The injector and ignition wires are on 1 of the white connectors going to the haltech. They are the 6 orange and 6 white wires. The orange are in a 1x6 config and the white are in a 3x2 config. There is a grouping of 4 white wires on the same connector
-On one of the connectors there are groupings of 6 blue/yellow tracer and 6 red/black tracer wires. these are NOT be connected to any of the ECU pins. They come out of the haltech clip but are not terminated inside the brick. Instead they pass through the brick and go to the ecu. This is how the haltech intercepts the ecus igintion and injector control.

Repaired by fixing all the wiring and made it match my harness. The only difference is the 2 extra wires are terminated in the white clip and not to the 4 pin clip for aux 02 inputs. I respliced any of the existing splices, removed the electrical tape and replaced with shrink wrap. I have added a wire for the 4th pin on the auxillary input connector. Terminated it with a male version pin from haltech but quickly realized it should have been female......will need to swap to a different brand of connector since I do not have any of the haltech female connectors and do not know the brand.

OHM'ed the pins on the connectors to the brick connector. All connections were identical (except the 2 o2 wires that were extra). Everything checked out great.

PICS:







Before anyone even tries to accuse me of swapping harnesses and starting this mess. I have both haltech harnesses here and they are physically different when new. My silver box came with the extra 4 pin connector for the auxiliary items (wideband 02 instead of oem). I also swapped one of my connectors for a delphi and my wideband connector had the voltages backwards. https://my350z.com/forum/8950144-post11.html

I feel guilty anyway since I should have checked it before i re-sold and sent the haltech out. Dozer never told me he modified the harness that heavily and claims his car still ran on it. He doesnt seem to want to help out at all.

FS thread pic from when i sold it:

Can definitely see the patch job that was done on it with the electrical tape ane wire nut.

 

I need to look at the connectors again, been so long since i installed mine that i cannot remember all the plug/pin connections.

More pics for reference.

length difference between the brick and ecu connector.


my 4 aux connectors:


dozer8 harness aux connectors


color differences


Extra two wideband inputs from ecu to haltech, re-spliced together. Can be undone to add in the external widebands.


my harness showing the two external widebands wires.



general wire color differences


connector with the ignition and injector ECU to haltech


haltech to injector/ignition outputs that go to the brick and thus the oem harness

 

what shop installed it from him?

I never understood why people take something from a manufacturer like haltech and start modifying it and cutting it up. Stupid people shouldn't touch cars. Plug the damn thing in and it will work.

 

he says it only went to two shops....didnt say which.

He is from LA, so he has options.

his sn is Dozer808.

 

if you wanted external widebands on the original harness you did have to cut a number of wires. I think they also had to be cut to add in a clutch switch.