Anyone have thier SAFC tuned? If so, what are your thoughts about it? gains? Did the gains last or did the ECU adjust back to stock? What other engine mods do you have? What settings are you using? etc. etc. etc.,

Thanks.

 

I just had my SAFC-II installed and have been doing some tuning on my own. Once I'm done fiddling with the settings, I’ll have it dyno tuned in a couple of weeks. I'm using my butt dyno, the sound of the engine and the AFR printout from my only (stock) dyno session for the basis of my settings.
My mods include the Borla muffler, Pop Charger, Crawford plenum & Cats.
Based on the coarseness of the engine especially in the cool temperatures, I suspected it was running lean with the mods. So I began adding fuel and worked my way up to the settings below. My Z is now running smoother & much stronger than before. I am very please with the SAFC so far. I’ll keep the board posted of my experiences if anyone's interested.



RPM LO 10% HI 80%
800 0 1
1600 -1 4
2000 -1 3
2600 1 5
3000 -2 5
3600 0 6
4000 -2 7
4600 -3 6
5000 -3 7
5600 -1 4
6200 3 0
6600 3 0

 

I need the wiring diagram for our ecu. Does anyone have it?

 

http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocu...AFC2Wiring.pdf

Page 36 shows the terminal drawing (N 11-D) for the Z.

 

I need the wiring diagram for our ecu. Does anyone have it?

 

You may want to start another thread with your request.

 

Is it me or the page has a corrupted font? I cant read it?

 

tuned mine myself as well. simply did +3-3500 +2-4000 +1-5200 and thats it based on my dyno. will readjust after i dyno again but i expect to be around 13.1-13.2 all the way to 5000 then it drops

 

You need to download the japanese version of Acrobat. You will see it on the Apexi web site. That should solve your problem.

And wow you guys are brave for tuning yourself, if it gets to lean KABOOM! I am having a shop tune mine, but only the second setting, leaving the first setting as stock. I would drive in the first setting all the time, except when racing I will change over to the tuned setting. This should help avoid the problem of the ECU retuning itself back...correct?

 

how could i make it too lean if all i do is add fuel under wot???

 

I have mine tuned. Got 9 rwhp gain on the dyno that put me at 268 rwhp and 246 torque. No point in posting my setings becuase no one else will be able to use them. This is just 2 of 12 settings, but at 4,000 rpm, I am boosting fuel by 12%, and by 6,200 rpm down to 2%. Anyone who thinks that the ECU will negate gains from this unit is an idiot and needs to stop spreading propaganda on the boards. I find it very funny that this rumor has spread "people claiming their "Tuner" told them this". Look people, its not possible for this to happen if you know how the thing works in the first place. If your tuner from the goodyear gas station told you this, never go back ther again!

I have had my unit installed for 5 months now, and all my gains from all my mods on are still there (baselined at 234 back in 2002).

Also, I first tuned my unit on the street with an AEM wideband O2 sensor. Under WOT I am hovering around 12.5 throughout the RPM range, and then dipping into the low 12's high 11'2 at redline.

This unit is good if your car is already heavily modded, i.e. exhaust, headers, cats, intake. You will not need it if your car is stock.

 

What is the initial setting for the Z?

Sensor type?
Cylinder #...its says 1 on the manual??
Throttle sensor type?

 

cylinder is 1, i forget off the top of my head what sensor type. will check later

 

Found the answer to my own questions...

Sensor type: Hotwire/ Sensor #26
Cylinder: #1
Throttle: up arrow

Anyone differ than what I got?

 

Update:

First of all, I like to say that Nissan, for whatever reason/s, does not have this 3.5L engine running optimally in our Z cars, or probably any of their other cars for that fact.

I've been tuning my safc on the streets for the last two months, and I now have a pretty good feel for what its doing. I can also say unequivocally that engine power is affected dramatically by the low throttle correction settings.
Until a week or so ago, I never really fiddled with the low throttle correction settings that much, but because of the hot sticky weather we've been experiencing in Texas lately, the Z began to feel sluggish. But I didn't necessarily want to back off on my high correction settings, so I started pulling out fuel on the low side. To my surprise the Z started running much better, and since it responded so positively, I pull out even more fuel and brought the high throttle down from 80 to 75%.
The Z now hauls a** like it has never done before! And the delivery of the torque/power is very impressive. And I don’t say this lightly as I still own a 98 Z28/LS1. I drive both cars and can tell you the LS1 will not currently embarrass my 350Z – its running that well.
The engine revs without any coarseness and yet it not excessively smooth to where it’s boring; it just sounds and feels like it’s running in a very highly tuned state, if you know what I mean.
The sound of the exhaust, too, has been affected: It has a very, very crisp, exotic, aggressive sound that’s consistently heard throughout the rev band. It’s a beautiful melodious sound without the excessive boominess.

What I think has happened is the computer likes what it sees from the safc & the O2 sensors and is using the more advanced timing maps. I have a feeling too that the power is going to hold up. I’ll make a post if anything changes.

Mods: Borla, cats & plenum.
Apexi settings:
LO = 0%
HI =75%
LO%;HI%
800 rpm: -7; 3
1400 -10;3
2000 -10;3
2600 -10;4
3000 -10;4
3600 -10;4
4000 -10;4
4400 -10;4
5000 -10;4
5600 -10;4
6000 -10;4
6400 -10;4

 

Have you dyno tuned it?

 

http://www.performancenissanparts.co...roducts_id=720

 

LO = 0%? Looks like you are leaning out the lo throttle a lot.

 

Tfasano

I street tuned my car. I haven't decided if I'm going to have it dyno tuned because of my results. What I've learned on the street I'm sure would have taken hours & hours on the dyno. So I can't justify spending $200 for tuning at this point. I may have it dynoed to check the air-to-fuel ratio though; I'm probably running a little rich at full throttle.



Yes, 10% seems like a lot, but it works! My car is running better than it ever has at this point. My gas mileage also increased by an indicated .5 mpg.
Keep in mind -10% is only when the throttle opening is at 0; between 0 and 75% throttle opening, linear interpolation is being applied.
For example, at 4000 rpm we have:
@ 0%=-10
@10%=-8
@20%=-6
@30%=-4
@40%=-2
@50%=0
@60%=+2
@70%=+4
@80%=+4
@90%=+4
@100%=+4

The correction values are approximate; there's actually a formula to compute the values but these are close enough.

And right now I'm running:
Low 0%
High 73%
& -12% from 2000 rpm on up. This is far as I'm going though as the car is running quite well.

 

Is that safe??? It would seem to me that you are running the risk of being too lean.