07 Oil Change at 1,500 miles (Pics)
09-20-2007, 10:13 AM
#22
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Originally Posted by gsingh350Z
Just some food for thought,
Evil_tt
09-20-2007, 10:18 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by gsingh350Z
^^Very True. My friends Benz came with Mobil 1 factory.
09-20-2007, 02:42 PM
#25
Originally Posted by evil_tt
You should really dump it out and put mineral back in ASAP. I've got 8K on my HR and as bad as I want to put synthetic in you have got to wait for the motor to break correctly in so the pistons/sleeves(ect..) sit right. Up to 10K+ on the VQ you can see visible metal shavings upon every oil change hinting that the motor is still breaking in.
Just some food for thought,
Evil_tt
Just some food for thought,
Evil_tt
09-20-2007, 04:16 PM
#26
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^wow, Just giving you some basic info man. Its not harmful, just doesn't allow your engine to break in correctly. Read the "The Top 100 Common Questions" thread for some more info.
Last edited by evil_tt; 09-20-2007 at 04:21 PM.
09-20-2007, 04:29 PM
#27
Not sure thats really the best way to show the condition of your oil to everyone. Maybe try a smaller sample in a clear container with a background lighter than the foreground. Honestly I can't see why you would change your oil after 1500 miles...but if you've got the cash...Hell, change it with every fill of gas, that way it will always look golden and fresh...lol
And the point about engines coming pre broken in is true and very common these days.
And the point about engines coming pre broken in is true and very common these days.
09-20-2007, 04:56 PM
#28
Originally Posted by ETTInnov03
Not sure thats really the best way to show the condition of your oil to everyone. Maybe try a smaller sample in a clear container with a background lighter than the foreground. Honestly I can't see why you would change your oil after 1500 miles...but if you've got the cash...Hell, change it with every fill of gas, that way it will always look golden and fresh...lol
And the point about engines coming pre broken in is true and very common these days.
And the point about engines coming pre broken in is true and very common these days.
09-20-2007, 08:10 PM
#30
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I know back in the day it wasn't recommended to use synthetic oils until about 20k miles bc conventional dino oil allows the piston rings to seat properly. I have generally followed this rule of thumb with all my cars. Newer cars that have synthetics from the factory are pre-broken in to my knowledge. I still think anything lower than 10k miles should not be using synthetic. Perhaps thats what is causing all these oil consumption issues with the Z's. I've had an 04 G35, 04 Z and an 06 Z and never had a single issue using non-synthetic oils and I changed it regularly at 2500-3000 mile intervals.
Oh and the color of your oil isn't necessarily indicative of needing an oil change.
Oh and the color of your oil isn't necessarily indicative of needing an oil change.
09-21-2007, 06:15 PM
#31
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True ^^^ but its a good way to tell if an oil change is in the near future. Im going to go see how black mine is right now. I have 1700 miles as of today and the oil still looks golden brown. It looks to be half a qt. low though...
09-21-2007, 08:32 PM
#33
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Break the engine in using dino oil. Your engine should be broken in on your first drive if you do it correctly. Ask any engine builder what their break-in process is and I guarantee it's not staying below a certain RPM for several hundred miles. You need to run the engine hard to get the rings to seat properly.
09-24-2007, 07:05 PM
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you are an idiot for changing the oil yourself! why when you can just take it to jiffy lube and have them change it for like 30 bucks in 15 min as opposed to 2 hours and mess everywhere? whatever floats your boat though
09-25-2007, 07:25 AM
#36
Originally Posted by newt125
you are an idiot for changing the oil yourself! why when you can just take it to jiffy lube and have them change it for like 30 bucks in 15 min as opposed to 2 hours and mess everywhere? whatever floats your boat though
It sounds like you've had a bad experience with DIY oil changes....noob
Last edited by singh; 09-25-2007 at 07:29 AM.
09-25-2007, 09:31 AM
#37
Originally Posted by gsingh350Z
And about the german castrol that was discussed above....I think it's available only in 0w-30 <==== TOO THIN BUDDY!
I live in a hot climate (HOUSTON) and putting thinner oil than recomended is dumb*** idea. If I were to put a different viscosity oil, I might have went with Mobil 1 0w-40.
I live in a hot climate (HOUSTON) and putting thinner oil than recomended is dumb*** idea. If I were to put a different viscosity oil, I might have went with Mobil 1 0w-40.
Will
09-25-2007, 09:42 AM
#38
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Originally Posted by SeansZ
True ^^^ but its a good way to tell if an oil change is in the near future. Im going to go see how black mine is right now. I have 1700 miles as of today and the oil still looks golden brown. It looks to be half a qt. low though...
The Dark Oil Myth
Dark oil does not indicate the need for an oil change. The way modern detergent motor oil works is that minute particles of soot are suspended in the oil. These minute particles pose no danger to your engine, but they cause the oil to darken. A non-detergent oil would stay clearer than a detergent oil because all the soot would be left on the internal engine parts and would create sludge. If you never changed your oil, eventually the oil would no longer be able to suspend any more particles in the oil and sludge would form. Fortunately, by following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval, you are changing your oil long before the oil has become saturated. Remember, a good oil should get dirty as it does it's work cleaning out the engine. The dispersant should stop all the gunk from depositing in the oil pan.
The only real way to determine whether oil is truly in need of changing is to have an oil analysis performed. Since most people don't want to bother with this, it's acceptable to err heavily on the safe side and simply follow the manufacturer's recommended change interval for severe service. There are still a few cars that specify 3K intervals for severe service, but not many. If you look at countries other than the U.S., the oil recommended change interval is much higher than even the normal interval specified by vehicle manufacturers in the U.S.
Dark oil does not indicate the need for an oil change. The way modern detergent motor oil works is that minute particles of soot are suspended in the oil. These minute particles pose no danger to your engine, but they cause the oil to darken. A non-detergent oil would stay clearer than a detergent oil because all the soot would be left on the internal engine parts and would create sludge. If you never changed your oil, eventually the oil would no longer be able to suspend any more particles in the oil and sludge would form. Fortunately, by following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval, you are changing your oil long before the oil has become saturated. Remember, a good oil should get dirty as it does it's work cleaning out the engine. The dispersant should stop all the gunk from depositing in the oil pan.
The only real way to determine whether oil is truly in need of changing is to have an oil analysis performed. Since most people don't want to bother with this, it's acceptable to err heavily on the safe side and simply follow the manufacturer's recommended change interval for severe service. There are still a few cars that specify 3K intervals for severe service, but not many. If you look at countries other than the U.S., the oil recommended change interval is much higher than even the normal interval specified by vehicle manufacturers in the U.S.
09-25-2007, 06:05 PM
#40
Originally Posted by Resolute
What makes you think Castrol 0W-30 is too thin? It is thicker than the 5W-30 you used. And the HTHS score is identical to the M1 0W-40 you mentioned at 3.6 cSt, so it's as thick as the M1 40 weight at 150 deg C. There is no truth to your post. The Castrol Syntec 5W-30 has good results in the VQ, but the UOA results on the german Castrol shows it to be a better performer. If it were available and you picked the 5W-30 over the GC, then you chose the lesser performing of the two oils. The gentleman you responded to was right.
Will
Will