Install *JWT Pop Chargers* pics and review
Install *JWT Pop Chargers* pics and review
VIDEOS ON PAGE TWO
Well I finally broke down and ordered some parts for my Z. I bought some AAM test pipes and JWT pop chargers. The pop chargers came in today so I decided to do the install.
Over all the install was fairly simple. I think the 2007 has the easiest airbox removal process of any car I've ever worked on. Loosen up the hose clamp take one 10mm bolt out and boom the damn thing is out. Anyway, the only thing i got hung up on was the heatsheilds i think the instruction could have got a bit more in depth about how they go in, but after a few mins. of playing with them you figure it out. Over all the fit and finish is very nice. I don't feel like I hacked that car at all, even tho you have to shave a bit of plastic of of the air duct. The engine bay looks very clean still, it dosn't have that 'modified' feel, anyone who has HEAVLY modified a car knows what i'm talking about.
Performance wise, there is a noticeably big difference in the mid-range and it carries well in to the high rpms. I'm not saying that its neck breaking, but its definatly something that you feel and notice. The sound is AWESOME!!! Very strong sounding...very 'all motorish' sounding. Its screams pass 3k all the way to redline.
I dynoed the car stock and put down 257HP/224TQ with 700 miles on the clock. I'm probly going to wait till i get my test pipes and cat back exhaust put on before i hit the dyno again. Theres no point in dynoing each mod...these little bolt ons are meant to work with each other, not be huge power increases in themselves. Well on with the pics...sorry they are so shitty my batteris died in my camera so I used my iPhone. I'll get batteries and take better pics and maybe get a little video.
Well I finally broke down and ordered some parts for my Z. I bought some AAM test pipes and JWT pop chargers. The pop chargers came in today so I decided to do the install.
Over all the install was fairly simple. I think the 2007 has the easiest airbox removal process of any car I've ever worked on. Loosen up the hose clamp take one 10mm bolt out and boom the damn thing is out. Anyway, the only thing i got hung up on was the heatsheilds i think the instruction could have got a bit more in depth about how they go in, but after a few mins. of playing with them you figure it out. Over all the fit and finish is very nice. I don't feel like I hacked that car at all, even tho you have to shave a bit of plastic of of the air duct. The engine bay looks very clean still, it dosn't have that 'modified' feel, anyone who has HEAVLY modified a car knows what i'm talking about.
Performance wise, there is a noticeably big difference in the mid-range and it carries well in to the high rpms. I'm not saying that its neck breaking, but its definatly something that you feel and notice. The sound is AWESOME!!! Very strong sounding...very 'all motorish' sounding. Its screams pass 3k all the way to redline.
I dynoed the car stock and put down 257HP/224TQ with 700 miles on the clock. I'm probly going to wait till i get my test pipes and cat back exhaust put on before i hit the dyno again. Theres no point in dynoing each mod...these little bolt ons are meant to work with each other, not be huge power increases in themselves. Well on with the pics...sorry they are so shitty my batteris died in my camera so I used my iPhone. I'll get batteries and take better pics and maybe get a little video.
Last edited by fwdracer1838; Feb 11, 2008 at 05:43 AM.
Originally Posted by WyattH
Thanks for the post. I've never seen these in person, so now that you have, how efficient is the heat shield do you think?
This has been covered, someone on here once used a mac or snap-on scan tool and proved that heat soak wasn't an issue...I think if anything the heat sheilds help keep the cool air around the filter element that flows through the air duct. Its all good things I think.
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Originally Posted by Mr.
Once you get them and install, would you mind doing a cold start idling vid from outside? I'm really curious how test pipes sound when the engine is still cold on this car.
When I had my audi a4, the test pipe was insanely loud before the engine was warm. It had a distinctive "farting" sound to it that resonated off the houses in my neighborhood, lolz. That was a turbo 4banger though and only one test pipe. I'm just curious how a n/a 3.5 v6 with two test pipes is going to sound. I'm after power though, so the sound won't be enough to sway me from purchasing a set in the near future.
Originally Posted by Mr.
I'm just curious how a n/a 3.5 v6 with two test pipes is going to sound.
Good luck finding that. That's a tough one.
Originally Posted by gsingh350Z
A n/a 3.5 v6 (350z) with test pipes...
Good luck finding that. That's a tough one.
Good luck finding that. That's a tough one.
LOL, I meant in comparison to a turbo 2.0 4banger at idle(cold start).
There seems to be a general rule of thumb of at least 3 diameters of pipe length before and after the MAF to have no bends or increases/decreases in diameter to get the least turbulent and most accurate readings from a MAF. Seems like JWT offers the closest so far, except for the minor reduction where the actual sensor sits. Does the inside of the piping reflect the small diameter change visible from the exterior? I kind of have an idea of fabbing up my own intake, with as much straight pipe as possible and only inserting a bend just before the throttle bodies.
TK
TK
