Im already lauging at gamermod the expert!

 

And so it begins.

So in regards to gamermodz 3 points, what other logical conclusions can be said to consistantly blow motors? Or is it always a derivative of those 3 factors?

oil change frequency/pressure/levels etc aside?

 

Wow, you are easily amused. Is it wrong to use the word "usually" when speaking about when people that boost engines designed for NA or add more boost to an engine designed for a different boost level?

I guess you laugh at all things that are not funny.

You could have used your time more effeciently and actually posted "helpful" information for everyone that is watching the post rather than some stupid comments but I guess you are just too intelligent for that.

All hail retardo Alberto!

 

The thread (Twing Turbo HR's) has to do with boosting the HR motor and the issues people experience when doing so. Not about how engines are blown in general therefore my response was about boosted HR motors.

 

Thank you, that was what I was looking for essentially. I'm not understanding the massive piggyback movement of DE issues translating to the HR that seems to plague the FI section, mainly due to (I assume) the lack of experiance and users with HR TT's.

Can you elaborate slightly with your comments in respect to uprev? I assume it's obviously because no stand alone EMS etc relays commands etc and needs to be wired... but uprev has been knocked by FI for having less options and features as some of the standalone units.... thoughts?

Thank you.

 

UpRev does have less options than other units. The issue is other units that will work on the HR are extremely expensive. Depending on how far you are going with your HR motor (extremely large injectors, etc) will determine if you "need" to do something other than UPRev. If you are just going to TT your HR on stock internals like most, the UPRev tune would be fine. S&R does it all the time with no issues. Also the UPRev tune is decently cheap, and since it is the stock ECU instead of a piggy back or stand alone, it's one less item that could go bad or give you issues.

When it came to building our (GamerModz.com) time attack car we looked at EMS options and for us we chose the Motec M880. Again, all depends on how far you go with your build, and what you will be doing with the car.

While I am sure there are some experienced people here in the forums, I would recommend writting down all your concerns and such and call either S&R Performance (my sponsor) or Forged Performance. They both will be a bottomless pit of info on the HR motor and TT'ing it.

 

Hey gamermodz I have an 08 Nismo also that I just put the Greddy TT kit on, did you have problems putting the strut tower back on, and did you also have to relocate the front body stabilizer because of the intercooler? At Nexx where did you find a Haltech for $2,300, everywhere I look i'm told their $3k.

 

We built a seperate engine outside of the car for this build. It is still a few weeks from being installed because we had to have a custom plenum made. We will be retaining the factory strut bar for our build though one way or another. I know I have heard of people loosing their strut bar with the Greddy kit though.

Since this is not installed yet, I don't know about the stabilizer either. I will be able to tell you in about 3 - 4 weeks when the plenum is done and our harmonic balancer has arrived.

You can get the Haltech for 2K but sensors, plug and play harness for the HR, etc can get you up to 3k. We decided to go with the Haltech temporarily until we get everything in for the Motec 880.

 

 

Really? Are you a retard to? Nevermind, the use of animicons instead of grammer answered my question.

 

Ok that makes sense with the haltech, I'm going to try and use my AEM cold air intake tubes that I took off and see if they will fit up to the greddy intercooler pipes so I can get that strut tower brace back on and maybe send those pipes back to Greddy and get some money out of them since I won't be able to sell that cai lol. I'm sure your shop will figure it out but I took the stabilizer brackets off the crash bumper brackets, flipped them upside down and mounted them to where the top crash bumper brackets were, next I took the body stabilizer and flipped it over so the fat end is on the drivers side, because the horns and airbag sensor go on the passenger side. Hopefully that makes some sense haha

 

Question for the guys here that are running the GTM TT setup. As for suspension what are you using for a strut bar?

Sway bars, has anyone looked into clearance issues if they are using the GTM custom exhaust?

 

I'm very exited today that I received a shipping confirmation from Kyle@IPP (big thanks for the outstanding business ) for my IPP STG 1 VQ35HR shortblock, and I can't wait to install everything and start breaking in the engine.

My engine was blown 6 months ago and it was a long wait to find a good VQ35HR core to rebuild.

Here is a list of most of the parts:

GTM HR 350Z TWIN TURBO KIT STAGE1 GT2860RS's .86 AR
GTM SPEC 3" DOWNPIPES re-circulating TYPE
Haltech haltech platinum 350z pnp EMS
IPP STG1 VQ35HR shortblock (Custom Wiseco VQ35HR Pistons + BC VQ35HR Rods)
L19 Head Studs - VQ35
OS GIKEN HR QUAD PLATE CLUTCH
Greddy Turbo Ti-C Cat-Back
AEM Wideband Uego Controller
DSD SLM II Boost, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure and EGT Gauges 60mm/amber LED
GTM full return fuel system for HR
HKS Denso 1000cc Peak and Hold Injectors

DENSO (FXE24HR11) one step coolder spark plugs for HR
IP Wiring Harness Modification for HR
IP Boost Control Kit


Again

 

you just paid for your car twice... welcome to the club.

 

And that just is that first half of the mods list i have

 

Did you get the plug and play harness for the Haltech to plug in to the 07+ ECU or are you going to spice the wires in yourself?

 

Well i found out the hard way that factory nissan bearings suck when pushing around 17psi. I think im going to see if power enterprise will make me some F-1 coated bearings for it once i get my motor and crankshaft back from the machine shop and take all my measurements.

 

That sucks to hear. Good luck in getting it all taken care of.

 

I truly don't mean to come off cynical or condescending, however did you really have an expectation that factory anything in the engine would hold up to 17psi? Or are you making light of your own situation and I'm just missing that part because i'm reading text over the internet.

Perhaps it's my lack of education on boosted Z's, however i've always had the assumption anything up to 7-9 maybe pushing 10 PSI is probably "safe"

I know evo's and sti's push up to 25 PSI but those motors were built to withstand the hight boost.

 

I got the IP plug and play harness for the Haltech to plug in to the 07+ ECU

Are you talking about your built block?

damn.. I'm got the factory bearings. As far as I know there is no aftermarket bearings for the HR yet!!