VQ35HR 60,000 Mile "No More Warantee" Thread
#24
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34K on my 08, i had the rattle with my trunk also, went in and they tore apart the whole back in after i couldn't fix it. They ended up replacing the rear shocks and springs. That pretty much fixed it. Ever now and then i hear it but not nearly as bad as before.
#25
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i'm almost at 57k and the only thing i worry about is (with the windows down) that stupid high-pitched squeal coming from the right side... has anyone ever gotten this resolved? searched a few times and a bunch of people said they couldn't figure out where it was coming from.
Fuel pump? I hear mine pretty clearly, always have. Thought it was a bit odd, but it doesn't bother me. Only can really hear it with the stock exhaust, or if I have nothing in the back, carpet out and everything.
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I replaced the Differential bushings, and sometimes get the sputtering deal. Other than that my car has been great since I bought it a year ago. The only problem is that I switched jobs and have been driving like a **** between work, home and my girlfriends place. 25k in one year is not good. I fear my clutch will decide to start slipping at any time.
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45k on mine. Have the start up sputtering intermittently and 02 sensor code but no cats. Also I have an abs light on because of an abs pump failure and got the random window auto roll once before. Anyone know if the abs pump would be covered under the 60k warranty?
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#31
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I have 54k. Dove it from vegas to carolina. Carolina to Miami and back. Carolina to Boston and back. I'm a nomad. lol
I sometimes get that sound from the right rear. And sometimes my window won't roll up. Its kinda moody. Other than that I've had no problems.
#32
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*sigh* they just don't make them like they used to. or I have really bad luck. My 03 the one i used for forumwars has NEVER gave me a problem. and that one gets all the hard track time abuse lol.
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45k...Trunk rattle try checking the hangers for the exhaust, there's a bolt that that keeps the rubber piece attached, also the black "springs" when you open the trunk could be busted. If thats not it also check your rear bumper, the two pieces that are supposed to attach it to the frame are cracked and cause it to sometimes hit against my exhaust.
For me I have an annoying squeak that comes from the "Z" logo on the rear brace in the trunk.
For me I have an annoying squeak that comes from the "Z" logo on the rear brace in the trunk.
#34
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there is a pretty easy fix to the hatch rattle, at least for me it was. after messing around with (and messing up) previous vehicles i've learned to always start with the simplest reason and work to the hardest. so i applied that to the annoyance that this rattle was causing me almost every time i hit a speed bump or pothole.
nothing else rattles or vibrates to makes a noise in the car (at least not yet) except this, so last week i attempted to fix it, and to my surprise i got it fixed right the first time. its a ghetto-*** fix but justifiable b/c its completely covered and costs me nothing
my rattle was the plastic covering tapping the rear cross bar (that big brace that takes up half the trunk). so i popped off the surrounding plastic, put a couple rags on the sides and top, and snapped everything back in. it fit a lot tighter and no more rattle
total cost was $0 and 10 min
i also had a knock from the evo II exhaust hitting a bolt under the car due to the exhaust pipe clearance, or lack thereof. it was around the differential on the driver side. so i went to car quest and bought a 3/4 inch diameter help! heater hose cap (i'll post the part no. later) and cut it in half. i took the bottom (closed cap part) and covered the bolt. no more metal on metal knock
if anything it just rubs the rubber cap, which is supposed to be heat resistant. i did that a few months ago and still looks good. no melting yet. total cost on that was about $3 and 20 min.
nothing else rattles or vibrates to makes a noise in the car (at least not yet) except this, so last week i attempted to fix it, and to my surprise i got it fixed right the first time. its a ghetto-*** fix but justifiable b/c its completely covered and costs me nothing
my rattle was the plastic covering tapping the rear cross bar (that big brace that takes up half the trunk). so i popped off the surrounding plastic, put a couple rags on the sides and top, and snapped everything back in. it fit a lot tighter and no more rattle
![thumbup](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
i also had a knock from the evo II exhaust hitting a bolt under the car due to the exhaust pipe clearance, or lack thereof. it was around the differential on the driver side. so i went to car quest and bought a 3/4 inch diameter help! heater hose cap (i'll post the part no. later) and cut it in half. i took the bottom (closed cap part) and covered the bolt. no more metal on metal knock
![thumbup](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
Last edited by smaqaho; 02-02-2011 at 03:55 PM.
#35
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64k on mine and am having hard startups.. Usually first startup of the day, engine fails to turn over I suppose. I have to try about 3 times before it finally starts up.. What could it be?
Fuel tank is halfway, battery doesn't seem to be the culprit cuz it's got enough juice to crank it on the 3rd try. Oil change done every 5k miles or 3 months.
Fuel tank is halfway, battery doesn't seem to be the culprit cuz it's got enough juice to crank it on the 3rd try. Oil change done every 5k miles or 3 months.
#36
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64k on mine and am having hard startups.. Usually first startup of the day, engine fails to turn over I suppose. I have to try about 3 times before it finally starts up.. What could it be?
Fuel tank is halfway, battery doesn't seem to be the culprit cuz it's got enough juice to crank it on the 3rd try. Oil change done every 5k miles or 3 months.
Fuel tank is halfway, battery doesn't seem to be the culprit cuz it's got enough juice to crank it on the 3rd try. Oil change done every 5k miles or 3 months.
#37
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07 Base at 30miles problems;
-Rattle when driving on cold days/winters from the steering wheel airbag place/silver addons on the wheel (base model)
-Rattle in the trunk, dont really care
-Can someone explain the startup problems they have and someone mentioned Sputtering during warmup? (just want to see or check for these things)
-Window motors are starting to wear, not as quick as they used to be
If anyone can help me fix the following problems or tell me what needs to be changed if i go to nissan i would appreciate it!
-Rattle when driving on cold days/winters from the steering wheel airbag place/silver addons on the wheel (base model)
-Rattle in the trunk, dont really care
-Can someone explain the startup problems they have and someone mentioned Sputtering during warmup? (just want to see or check for these things)
-Window motors are starting to wear, not as quick as they used to be
If anyone can help me fix the following problems or tell me what needs to be changed if i go to nissan i would appreciate it!
#38
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07 41k miles
powertrain wise everything is still strong, no clutch, tranny, engine problems but I have had to change the timing belt twice in under 40k miles (last replaced at like 37k?? and just replaced before that at like 30k bought the car with 26k was already torn).
They looked at the water pump and around and couldn't find what is causing the belt to tear. . .the last time I had it replaced it was done at a GoodYear shop and this past one was done at the dealership and they said maybe they used the wrong size belt or not an OEM one. .anyways belt is holding strong so far.
Other problems:
- tons of rattles and squeaks but it doesn't bother me. Feel like the car is more raw this way![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
- driver side window motor will not auto roll up. I will pull it quick so the window will go up itself, it will go all the way up then roll back down so it's about 3/4. The only way to get it all the way up is to pull up on the little switch thing to roll it up. Doesnt bother me but can get annoying.
- sputtering during warm up and when I drive off. I let it warm up till its about 1k rpms then drive off slowly. The very first time I shift into first after reversing the car sputters and then it's fine from there on. Not sure why but not too bad.
- Gas cap replaced. Not sure what happened here. Got a CEL and I guess the pressure inside the gas tank was lower than normal and the gas cap was not sealing properly. Replaced.
- Rear hatch will not hold up but this is primarily due to the fact I have a spoiler and that added weight on there will not let it hold up. I thought it would still be able to hold up though,... this is dangerous when friends try to put stuff in the rear opening the hatch thinking it will stay up. I constantly have to remind them it doesnt lol!!
- interior scratches. . .nissan quality. .
- front bumper scratches and dings (rock chips). .looking to replace it soon anyways
Other than that the car runs very strong. No problems, no oil consumption problems, no clutch problems, no tranny problems and I am thankful. I can live with the minor repairs but god forbid something happens to the powertrain after 60k miles. .
powertrain wise everything is still strong, no clutch, tranny, engine problems but I have had to change the timing belt twice in under 40k miles (last replaced at like 37k?? and just replaced before that at like 30k bought the car with 26k was already torn).
They looked at the water pump and around and couldn't find what is causing the belt to tear. . .the last time I had it replaced it was done at a GoodYear shop and this past one was done at the dealership and they said maybe they used the wrong size belt or not an OEM one. .anyways belt is holding strong so far.
Other problems:
- tons of rattles and squeaks but it doesn't bother me. Feel like the car is more raw this way
![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
- driver side window motor will not auto roll up. I will pull it quick so the window will go up itself, it will go all the way up then roll back down so it's about 3/4. The only way to get it all the way up is to pull up on the little switch thing to roll it up. Doesnt bother me but can get annoying.
- sputtering during warm up and when I drive off. I let it warm up till its about 1k rpms then drive off slowly. The very first time I shift into first after reversing the car sputters and then it's fine from there on. Not sure why but not too bad.
- Gas cap replaced. Not sure what happened here. Got a CEL and I guess the pressure inside the gas tank was lower than normal and the gas cap was not sealing properly. Replaced.
- Rear hatch will not hold up but this is primarily due to the fact I have a spoiler and that added weight on there will not let it hold up. I thought it would still be able to hold up though,... this is dangerous when friends try to put stuff in the rear opening the hatch thinking it will stay up. I constantly have to remind them it doesnt lol!!
- interior scratches. . .nissan quality. .
- front bumper scratches and dings (rock chips). .looking to replace it soon anyways
Other than that the car runs very strong. No problems, no oil consumption problems, no clutch problems, no tranny problems and I am thankful. I can live with the minor repairs but god forbid something happens to the powertrain after 60k miles. .
#39
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I have the 7yr/100,000
29k on my 07....a lot of miles put on the first year, then I moved MUCH closer to work and I'm only putting on 5k a year just for work instead of 15.5k. Don't go out much and if I do it's close by.
My soft touch trunk button had to be replaced due to faulty sealing, other then that I've had no problems.
Ninja edit: I also had the infamous window motor roll down when using auto up, but warranty doesn't cover the $100 re-program for that, though the service tech gave me that for free anyways.
29k on my 07....a lot of miles put on the first year, then I moved MUCH closer to work and I'm only putting on 5k a year just for work instead of 15.5k. Don't go out much and if I do it's close by.
My soft touch trunk button had to be replaced due to faulty sealing, other then that I've had no problems.
Ninja edit: I also had the infamous window motor roll down when using auto up, but warranty doesn't cover the $100 re-program for that, though the service tech gave me that for free anyways.