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Crankshaft Position Sensor / Flywheel Issue

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Old 10-30-2009, 10:08 AM
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Peak350
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Default Crankshaft Position Sensor / Flywheel Issue

Bold below is my question, if you don't want the backstory.

I replaced my clutch and flywheel (the Jim wolf stuff I had was crap, more on that later) for a used Stock flywheel from a junkyard and a new factory clutch I bought from Kyle@IPP.

I cleaned the flywheel surface thoroughly, as it had rusted sitting in the elements, and scuffed the pressure plate. The components all went in fine, got the car back together and it won't start.

My tach doesn't show RPM during cranking, which makes me think its a crank position sensor signal issue. I pulled the crank position sensor (its top right side of the tranny at the bell housing, remove from the bottom, 10 mm deep socket and a short 3/8" ratchet worked for me). The timing ring on the flywheel is rusty, I sanded most of the teeth themselves clean through the access area on the bottom of the engine, but still don't get any signal at all (meaning no spark...).

Could the rusty timing ring cause the "Hall IC" sensor to work improperly? If so I'll pull it apart and clean the ring up...just hate to pull the entire trans out AGAIN if that isn't the cause.


The Jim wolf stuff being crap = ring gear got chewed up by my starter and would grind often on attempts to crank. The clutch was the DE clutch that JWT said would work, it blew a slave cylinder and is clearly not the correct pressure plate at all, the teeth aren't long enough. I feel duped
Old 10-30-2009, 10:34 AM
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Peak350
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It appears my buddy and I missed the alignment dowel on the flywheel, its possible I got it on wrong, taking things apart now...
Old 11-02-2009, 02:51 PM
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Peak350
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The flywheel was off 180 degrees....doh.

Car runs fine now.

For reference, take the crank position sensor out just to be safe.
Old 11-03-2009, 08:04 AM
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musubi
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Wow, glad everything worked out for you. Sucks to hear about the JWT setup. Maybe that's why certain individuals who've switched over to it had their CSC give out? I'm guessing your initial stock flywheel and clutch both were burned out and unable to reuse the flywheel? Those flywheels are stupid expensive.
Old 11-03-2009, 01:48 PM
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Peak350
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Originally Posted by musubi
Wow, glad everything worked out for you. Sucks to hear about the JWT setup. Maybe that's why certain individuals who've switched over to it had their CSC give out? I'm guessing your initial stock flywheel and clutch both were burned out and unable to reuse the flywheel? Those flywheels are stupid expensive.
The stock flywheel broke, in limping the car home (or maybe just the drag racing from before) the clutch disc was worn. I think it was mostly getting home, it was full slip for 25+ miles of driving and it was already hot when I left the track. I got a junkyard flywheel for $100 with a used clutch (in good shape, but rusty pressure plate). Bought a new clutch system just in case, about $600 in those parts total.

My slave has 3,500 miles on it I think (officially) so I was one of those who had it fail, the JWT's stiffness plays a role in the failure, a large role, as does heat. The external conversion is the way to go completely.
Old 09-10-2014, 07:17 PM
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Uprevtuning
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Default I have the same problem

Originally Posted by Peak350
Bold below is my question, if you don't want the backstory.

I replaced my clutch and flywheel (the Jim wolf stuff I had was crap, more on that later) for a used Stock flywheel from a junkyard and a new factory clutch I bought from Kyle@IPP.

I cleaned the flywheel surface thoroughly, as it had rusted sitting in the elements, and scuffed the pressure plate. The components all went in fine, got the car back together and it won't start.

My tach doesn't show RPM during cranking, which makes me think its a crank position sensor signal issue. I pulled the crank position sensor (its top right side of the tranny at the bell housing, remove from the bottom, 10 mm deep socket and a short 3/8" ratchet worked for me). The timing ring on the flywheel is rusty, I sanded most of the teeth themselves clean through the access area on the bottom of the engine, but still don't get any signal at all (meaning no spark...).

Could the rusty timing ring cause the "Hall IC" sensor to work improperly? If so I'll pull it apart and clean the ring up...just hate to pull the entire trans out AGAIN if that isn't the cause.


The Jim wolf stuff being crap = ring gear got chewed up by my starter and would grind often on attempts to crank. The clutch was the DE clutch that JWT said would work, it blew a slave cylinder and is clearly not the correct pressure plate at all, the teeth aren't long enough. I feel duped
Recently pulled motor and If I remove the crank sensor it starts otherwise it halfway runs and rpm guage messes up. I had the flywheel off
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