View Poll Results: Your guess on actual WHP from this build?
550-650 WHP



16
18.18%
650-750 WHP



16
18.18%
750-850 WHP



18
20.45%
850-950 WHP



18
20.45%
950-1050 WHP



5
5.68%
1050-1150+ WHP



15
17.05%
Voters: 88. You may not vote on this poll
Projected HP output for Gamer's HR build!
What? SP could put a set of street tires and go out and run a 6 minute lap of Sebring.............I ask again......what is the point of making 1000+ whp for your application? It doesn't matter if it is for a street, strip, or circuit car.....1000whp is 1000whp.
The guy we used to design and make the plenum used to build Volvo's race cars. We have been involving him in some of our decisions and he thinks the front end on the NISMO will give me enough down force so we will keep it for now. He will probably be with us for the first test and tune to help us make sure the car is performing the way we want.
The "big deal" behind this build was that we were doing it to a NISMO. Unfortunately the wing is something that makes it stand out as a NISMO and that is definately going to have to go. We are currently looking at APR's GT wings.
The "big deal" behind this build was that we were doing it to a NISMO. Unfortunately the wing is something that makes it stand out as a NISMO and that is definately going to have to go. We are currently looking at APR's GT wings.
Fail, please revisit previous posts for your answer. If you have a hard time reading it, I will send the short bus for you.
I get it....you can magazine race with the best of them.....your forza skills are impeccable. My guess is the first time you go out on 600whp and street tires it goes into a wall......I hope I am wrong, but I doubt it.....you are clown...who won't listen to anything anyone has to say. You think because you can carry 120mph through turn one at sebring on forza you will be able to do it on your first lap.
P.S. what is your PB at serbing as of now?
P.S. what is your PB at serbing as of now?
Last edited by 03threefiftyz; Jun 15, 2010 at 04:47 PM.
I get it....you can magazine race with the best of them.....your forza skills are impeccable. My guess is the first time you go out on 600whp and street tires it goes into a wall......I hope I am wrong, but I doubt it.....you are clown...who won't listen to anything anyone has to say. You think because you can carry 120mph through turn one at sebring on forza you will be able to do it on your first lap.
P.S. what is your PB at serbing as of now?
P.S. what is your PB at serbing as of now?
Come run against me if you think you have what it takes.
Also, I have to wonder why you feel the need to try and make me sound like a bad person. Is it to make you feel better? To look better to others? Like your **** doesn't stink of something? Hell, all I know is that while you don't like me, you sure go out of your way to talk about me. Matter fact, I think you may have a man crush on me or something. I am sorry, I don't swing that way but I hear Lakeside is looking for a new mate.
I never timed this car out at sebring because it didn't matter, I as putting much more power and increasing the handling so much more before it went back out there. There is a post that has a video of the last time I was out at Sebring on the *** of a Z putting over 500rwhp down compared to my 296 and I was on his *** down the front straight.
You can talk all the **** you want but at the end of the day, I am out there getting it done while you sit at home and post meaningless **** on here.
I will meet you half way and run CMP with you. NA of course. I am glad you seem to have me so figured out....I have built several cars in the past. I autox/track my Z regularly......and in the past drag raced it several times a month (160+ passes last year in fact).
I think its an ambitious build....I started with an attempt to aid you with better parts, but you won't listen worth a damn.
I will just wait for your conspicuous absence in a few weeks/months to indicate it went boom or you put into a wall.
I think its an ambitious build....I started with an attempt to aid you with better parts, but you won't listen worth a damn.
I will just wait for your conspicuous absence in a few weeks/months to indicate it went boom or you put into a wall.
National Z Club President
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 9,950
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From: the coolest place on earth
Cryogenic treatment utilizes ultra-cold temperatures to modify the micro-structure of metals and other materials. The process of cryogenic treatment is also known as cryogenic tempering and cryogenic freezing. Cryo treatment has been widely adopted as a cost reduction and performance enhancing technology. Cryogenic treatment is also used as an enabling technology, when its stress relieving benefits are utilized to permit the fabrication (or machining) of critical tolerance parts.
The Nitrofreeze Cryogenic Treatment Process can provide you with many benefits. Parts that are prone to wear will last longer after the process has been completed. Failures caused by cracking along stress lines will be reduced and in some cases eliminated. Thermal properties will be enhanced allowing faster heat dissipation. Parts that must maintain critical tolerances in high-precision applications are much less likely to walk, creep, or "potato chip". These benefits allow cryogenic treatment to solve many issues related to wear, cracking, heat and machining.
The cryogenic treatment process uses sub-zero cryogenic temperatures down to –300ºF to modify the micro-structure of the material. Cryo treatment promotes additional transformations in metals. Deep cryogenic freezing ultimately improves the performance of the metal. The Nitrofreeze Cryogenic Treatment Process will provide you with tougher and more durable parts.
We have several different cryogenic processors to complete the cryogenic treatment process for your parts. One of our processors is 70" long x 19" wide x 25" deep. Our other cryogenic processor is 84" long x 36" wide x 34" deep.
Cryogenic treatment is an extension of the heat-treating process that further enhances metals in the following ways:
1. Relieves residual stresses
2. Promotes a more uniform micro-structure
3. Precipitates eta-carbides in steels for increased resistance to wear
Cryo treated metals enjoy the following benefits:
1. Longer life due to reduced wear
2. Less failures due to cracking that result from the propagation of stress lines
3. Improved thermal properties
4. Better electrical properties with reduced electrical resistance
5. Reduced coefficient of friction on polished metals
6. Less creep & walk, and improved flatness for critical tolerance parts
7. Easier machining, polishing and grinding for better edges and finishes
Cryo treating can make a major contribution to solving these problems:
1. High abrasive wear in cutting tools, molds, dies, brake rotors, gears, engine components, etc.
2. High corrosive wear in chemical, food, and oil equipment applications.
3. High erosive wear from, water, slurries and other abrasive grit carriers.
4. Distortions induced by design, forming, machining or environment.
5. Stress relief in complex tools, components, and welds.
6. Stress relief cracking of weld zones.
7. Surface finishing in any application where long life is needed.
8. Stabilization in parts and components as a result of stresses.
9. Machinability in aluminum and copper parts.
10. Electrode life in copper resistance welding electrodes (Type 1, 2, 3, 4, 11 & 13).
The Nitrofreeze Cryogenic Treatment Process can provide you with many benefits. Parts that are prone to wear will last longer after the process has been completed. Failures caused by cracking along stress lines will be reduced and in some cases eliminated. Thermal properties will be enhanced allowing faster heat dissipation. Parts that must maintain critical tolerances in high-precision applications are much less likely to walk, creep, or "potato chip". These benefits allow cryogenic treatment to solve many issues related to wear, cracking, heat and machining.
The cryogenic treatment process uses sub-zero cryogenic temperatures down to –300ºF to modify the micro-structure of the material. Cryo treatment promotes additional transformations in metals. Deep cryogenic freezing ultimately improves the performance of the metal. The Nitrofreeze Cryogenic Treatment Process will provide you with tougher and more durable parts.
We have several different cryogenic processors to complete the cryogenic treatment process for your parts. One of our processors is 70" long x 19" wide x 25" deep. Our other cryogenic processor is 84" long x 36" wide x 34" deep.
Cryogenic treatment is an extension of the heat-treating process that further enhances metals in the following ways:
1. Relieves residual stresses
2. Promotes a more uniform micro-structure
3. Precipitates eta-carbides in steels for increased resistance to wear
Cryo treated metals enjoy the following benefits:
1. Longer life due to reduced wear
2. Less failures due to cracking that result from the propagation of stress lines
3. Improved thermal properties
4. Better electrical properties with reduced electrical resistance
5. Reduced coefficient of friction on polished metals
6. Less creep & walk, and improved flatness for critical tolerance parts
7. Easier machining, polishing and grinding for better edges and finishes
Cryo treating can make a major contribution to solving these problems:
1. High abrasive wear in cutting tools, molds, dies, brake rotors, gears, engine components, etc.
2. High corrosive wear in chemical, food, and oil equipment applications.
3. High erosive wear from, water, slurries and other abrasive grit carriers.
4. Distortions induced by design, forming, machining or environment.
5. Stress relief in complex tools, components, and welds.
6. Stress relief cracking of weld zones.
7. Surface finishing in any application where long life is needed.
8. Stabilization in parts and components as a result of stresses.
9. Machinability in aluminum and copper parts.
10. Electrode life in copper resistance welding electrodes (Type 1, 2, 3, 4, 11 & 13).

I dont think it will make the axles any stronger
I will meet you half way and run CMP with you. NA of course. I am glad you seem to have me so figured out....I have built several cars in the past. I autox/track my Z regularly......and in the past drag raced it several times a month (160+ passes last year in fact).
I think its an ambitious build....I started with an attempt to aid you with better parts, but you won't listen worth a damn.
I will just wait for your conspicuous absence in a few weeks/months to indicate it went boom or you put into a wall.
I think its an ambitious build....I started with an attempt to aid you with better parts, but you won't listen worth a damn.
I will just wait for your conspicuous absence in a few weeks/months to indicate it went boom or you put into a wall.
So I should take your advice over Sharif's, S&R Performance's, a guy that built Volvo's race cars, among many other people in the industry? Just because you have built a few car, nothing close to this magnitude, ran some autocrosses, and dragged raced your car, you know more than the people that do this every day?
Maybe you are used to the average joe building his car up here in the forums and you mistakenly assumed this was the case here.
Either way, you have been knocking this build since day one going on about what is right and what is wrong yet I have one of the best shops in the U.S. doing the work with advice from owners of other top shops in the U.S., with insight from real race car builders, knowledge and help from Greddy, Darton, Crower, and more.
The post where you said "cryo won't do a damn thing" is just one of the many reasons I don't listen to anything you say. That comment shows your knowledge is limited by your experience.
Barnabas, yes. We probably won't see a huge benifit from cryo'ing the axles like we will from everything else, but we really don't know what type of constant beating the stock axles can take with large power. It's so cheap to just cryo them and hope they hold up.
Again, if they break, they break but at least we did everything we could and it will be time to contact the driveshaft shop.
Again, if they break, they break but at least we did everything we could and it will be time to contact the driveshaft shop.
Yet sharif chose JRZ's for his GTR.....The teins are fine for a lesser modified build, but you won't be winning outright in modified or super modified on them.....you will still be getting your *** whooped by Cobbs GTR (JRZ's also) and Gates (surprise on JRZ's) . Since you will automatically get the bump to super modified when you convert to hoosiers.......we won't even get into that. You are outclassed in terms of equipment, driving talent, etc.
Just make 600whp, run on NT01's, get real brakes, and be happy to stand on the podium in modified RWD.
Edit...I should note that I like and respect Sharif.....I know he ran the teins on his 350z with success, but with all the money you are spending....why not buy the best components. Just sayin'.
Just make 600whp, run on NT01's, get real brakes, and be happy to stand on the podium in modified RWD.
Edit...I should note that I like and respect Sharif.....I know he ran the teins on his 350z with success, but with all the money you are spending....why not buy the best components. Just sayin'.
Last edited by 03threefiftyz; Jun 15, 2010 at 05:37 PM.
Yet sharif chose JRZ's for his GTR.....The teins are fine for a lesser modified build, but you won't be winning outright in modified or super modified on them.....you will still be getting your *** whooped by Cobbs GTR (JRZ's also) and Gates (surprise on JRZ's) . Since you will automatically get the bump to super modified when you convert to hoosiers.......we won't even get into that. You are outclassed in terms of equipment, driving talent, etc.
Just make 600whp, run on NT01's, get real brakes, and be happy to stand on the podium in modified RWD.
Just make 600whp, run on NT01's, get real brakes, and be happy to stand on the podium in modified RWD.
Real brakes? Again, do you have experience with the Greddy brakes to back the claim that they aren't "real" brakes? I rant Stoptech 6POT Front, 4POT rear with 355 rotors all around and the greddy's thus far seem to cool faster and have a stronger initial bite. May have something to do with a 385 rotor and 8pot front but I guess that's not good enough for racing right?
Until you have experience with Greddy brakes "yourself", keep your BS comments to yourself. I myself have had the stoptech's and the greddy's and guess what, I like the greddy's.



