aiming for 300whp+
05-12-2011, 11:37 PM
#21
Registered User
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Oregon
Posts: 605
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lakeside, don't forget the GTM supercharger option (for us ballers on budgets)! If you can install it yourself, 6K is all it takes for 500BHP.
http://www.gtmotorsports.com/product...cat=258&page=1
http://www.gtmotorsports.com/product...cat=258&page=1
Last edited by Nismo1534; 05-12-2011 at 11:39 PM.
05-13-2011, 07:27 AM
#22
Registered User
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Auburn, AL
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So...i've been researching yet i feel like i need more information. there are so many threads with debates about intakes/exhaust etc blablabla and they all seem kinda vague so i'm makin this thread so hopefully some of you guys can help!
i made 282.74whp/246.81wtq on the dyno jet a couple months ago at sr motorcars located in gardena,ca
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._5210646_n.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=rMiJ2LJZ26w
my current performance mods are :
tanabe hyper medalion spec
tanabe y pipe
fast intentions test pipes
i'm debating right know if i should go for a 3" single exit (aam or jic)
i know the 4.08 final drive is really the biggest bang for the buck from what i hear..so im preparing for that.
i was planning on getting the stillen gen 3 ultra longtube intakes next..but would it be necessary? i hear alot of people saying go for the injens/k&n drop-ins/ or even just keep it stock. ive read somewhere a few people gaining 14+ with the stillens / 8+ with the injens
n then finish it off with the osiris tune
balblabla there is so much **** n debates for the hr..makes it so complicating somtimes!
what would be your recommendations as far as basic boltons?
sorry if this seems kinda noob. i am still learning! and would love to learn more!
thanks !!
i made 282.74whp/246.81wtq on the dyno jet a couple months ago at sr motorcars located in gardena,ca
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._5210646_n.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=rMiJ2LJZ26w
my current performance mods are :
tanabe hyper medalion spec
tanabe y pipe
fast intentions test pipes
i'm debating right know if i should go for a 3" single exit (aam or jic)
i know the 4.08 final drive is really the biggest bang for the buck from what i hear..so im preparing for that.
i was planning on getting the stillen gen 3 ultra longtube intakes next..but would it be necessary? i hear alot of people saying go for the injens/k&n drop-ins/ or even just keep it stock. ive read somewhere a few people gaining 14+ with the stillens / 8+ with the injens
n then finish it off with the osiris tune
balblabla there is so much **** n debates for the hr..makes it so complicating somtimes!
what would be your recommendations as far as basic boltons?
sorry if this seems kinda noob. i am still learning! and would love to learn more!
thanks !!
Last edited by AadosX; 05-13-2011 at 07:41 AM.
05-13-2011, 07:40 AM
#23
Registered User
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Auburn, AL
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have always had the money to boost my Nismo. For me, sure it was good experience going the NA route. I also wanted to hold onto my Warranty just incase. It's easy enough to remove bolt-ons. I don't regret it, if I TT my car I have the true dual exhaust & UpRev software already. If I SC my car, I have the exhaust, headers and tuning software.
I use to be so set on finishing my car & going TT but priorities change. Lately it's on the back burner. It will eventually happen, when
who knows! Whenever I get around to it. I am sure many members here share my view.
It's still alot cheaper to do a full bolt-on setup with tune then to TT a car with supporting mods! I figure that build to be around 12K. In this economy, I would rather keep those funds in savings.
Bolt-on NA builds are cheap in comparison to FI
I use to be so set on finishing my car & going TT but priorities change. Lately it's on the back burner. It will eventually happen, when
who knows! Whenever I get around to it. I am sure many members here share my view. It's still alot cheaper to do a full bolt-on setup with tune then to TT a car with supporting mods! I figure that build to be around 12K. In this economy, I would rather keep those funds in savings.
Bolt-on NA builds are cheap in comparison to FI
I like this guy ^^
Last edited by AadosX; 05-13-2011 at 07:54 AM.
05-13-2011, 08:53 AM
#26
Registered User
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Auburn, AL
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes it's too bad they affect hwy mpg's though. =/ I like my 3.7's and would like some 4.08's but I am just on the fence about them.. I'm not so sure I am that hardcore anymore haha.
05-13-2011, 08:59 AM
#27
3.7 are a waste of time. Possibly 3.9's but the 4.08's according to my trip computer I have only lost 1 mpg or less. My trip computer says 18.5 mpg average. I don't daily drive my Z, so when I take it out I don't beat the hell out of it and I don't exactly baby it either.
It's a 6 spd! You can offset the gears alittle. If it was a 5 spd you would notice a larger loss in mileage.
It's a 6 spd! You can offset the gears alittle. If it was a 5 spd you would notice a larger loss in mileage.
05-13-2011, 09:03 AM
#28
Registered User
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Auburn, AL
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah I see no reason 4.08's would affect mpg around town.. you can always just shift sooner and cruise in a higher gear. On the interstate is where you would notice a difference.. granted it might only be 2-3 mpg.
I only have the 3.7 because they cost me $250.. definitely worth that in my book for the tiny added oomph. 8)
I only have the 3.7 because they cost me $250.. definitely worth that in my book for the tiny added oomph. 8)
05-13-2011, 02:09 PM
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: La Crescenta, CA
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fock!!!!! I don't know what to do next...do you guys think the 4.08 gears would be a good idea if I'm doing 70miles roundtrip everyday cuz of work?
Aadosx I've seen your threads n youtube clips. Freakin awesome!!! Same color and same wheels
Aadosx I've seen your threads n youtube clips. Freakin awesome!!! Same color and same wheels
05-14-2011, 03:09 AM
#30
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just finished up the driveline parts.
05-14-2011, 09:11 AM
#31
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (564)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 19,266
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
removal of the engine takes all of ~2 hours - cams are not a difficult install, just a bit time consuming in terms of setting them up and tuning for them afterwards. On an HR though, IMHO, it's well worth it since the bottom end is already stout enough to take the rpm's needed to make power
05-14-2011, 09:08 PM
#33
My mods on my HR are:
Injen intakes
Injen true dual exhaust
Berk test pipes
Uprev Tune
I'm not going to get into what my dyno numbers are because they are very disputable (If you are that curious I started a thread about it maybe a year ago and posted up the dyno). What I can say that each of my mods have repeatedly shown for myself and other members that they do gain some power and comparatively great power gains when looking at the other options for non FI mods.
I have no plans to do gears, headers or cams. In fact I'm not going to be doing any more mods for power gains unless it's FI which is pure speculation at this point. For now I'm just going to enjoy the car and set my focus on my current suspension set up and whether or not I'd like to upgrade in the future. But for now I'm perfectly fine with it so I'm just going to save some money, perhaps wheel ***** a little in the mean time, but who knows?
Injen intakes
Injen true dual exhaust
Berk test pipes
Uprev Tune
I'm not going to get into what my dyno numbers are because they are very disputable (If you are that curious I started a thread about it maybe a year ago and posted up the dyno). What I can say that each of my mods have repeatedly shown for myself and other members that they do gain some power and comparatively great power gains when looking at the other options for non FI mods.
I have no plans to do gears, headers or cams. In fact I'm not going to be doing any more mods for power gains unless it's FI which is pure speculation at this point. For now I'm just going to enjoy the car and set my focus on my current suspension set up and whether or not I'd like to upgrade in the future. But for now I'm perfectly fine with it so I'm just going to save some money, perhaps wheel ***** a little in the mean time, but who knows?
05-15-2011, 03:42 PM
#34
Registered User
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Auburn, AL
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
removal of the engine takes all of ~2 hours - cams are not a difficult install, just a bit time consuming in terms of setting them up and tuning for them afterwards. On an HR though, IMHO, it's well worth it since the bottom end is already stout enough to take the rpm's needed to make power
Thanks!
05-15-2011, 05:54 PM
#35
Registered User
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Houston,TX
Posts: 1,395
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
probably, and I say probably, all you have + headers and mild cams SHOULD be enough to get in the solid 300+ whp on an HR engine... without breathing mods to the heads.
05-15-2011, 07:03 PM
#36
Registered User
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: under a rock
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here are my numbers on my HR. 294hp/254tq.
The only performance mods at the time of the tune were the following (with stock air boxes and filters) at Uprev in Austin, TX:
1. Osiris flash
2. Nismo Exhaust
3. Berk Test pipes
The only performance mods at the time of the tune were the following (with stock air boxes and filters) at Uprev in Austin, TX:
1. Osiris flash
2. Nismo Exhaust
3. Berk Test pipes
Last edited by moose350z; 05-15-2011 at 07:07 PM.
05-15-2011, 07:08 PM
#37
that isn't close to enough to get in the 300+ whp realm unless you had a VERY LUCKY engine to begin with...
probably, and I say probably, all you have + headers and mild cams SHOULD be enough to get in the solid 300+ whp on an HR engine... without breathing mods to the heads.
probably, and I say probably, all you have + headers and mild cams SHOULD be enough to get in the solid 300+ whp on an HR engine... without breathing mods to the heads.
05-15-2011, 10:07 PM
#38
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: La Crescenta, CA
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i know i shold really ask this in the tuning section but since you guys are all here, i'll ask
is the technosquare reflash (i know they dont have it anymore) and osiris uprev tune same thing? is the osiris uprev tune a reflash? i can't fuggin figure it out.
i was planning on getting the osiris done next month over @church auto
is the technosquare reflash (i know they dont have it anymore) and osiris uprev tune same thing? is the osiris uprev tune a reflash? i can't fuggin figure it out.
i was planning on getting the osiris done next month over @church auto
05-16-2011, 05:29 AM
#39
Registered User
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Houston,TX
Posts: 1,395
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
let say that in the "NA" for cheap the best you can get is about 40/50whp more than baseline with tune, full exhaust (header / tp / catback ), cams.
true that is expensive, but for certain application (road course in my case) is WAY more reliable that FI...
let just say that with a 10.000$ invested to get 50whp more on a NA setup, including "safety mods" (radiators, oil cooler, etc. etc.) is WAY safer than the basic turbo or supercharger kit you can get today.
if all you need is something to push hard few stoplights or so... than go FI
05-16-2011, 02:22 PM
#40
Registered User
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: around
Posts: 4,114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
save your money and FI your HR!
or... you can always find a local dyno that read high as fukc! xD
some dude in my area..
https://my350z.com/forum/northern-ca...9-zcg-ftw.html
or... you can always find a local dyno that read high as fukc! xD
some dude in my area..
https://my350z.com/forum/northern-ca...9-zcg-ftw.html