So...i've been researching yet i feel like i need more information. there are so many threads with debates about intakes/exhaust etc blablabla and they all seem kinda vague so i'm makin this thread so hopefully some of you guys can help!

i made 282.74whp/246.81wtq on the dyno jet a couple months ago at sr motorcars located in gardena,ca

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._5210646_n.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=rMiJ2LJZ26w

my current performance mods are :
tanabe hyper medalion spec
tanabe y pipe
fast intentions test pipes

i'm debating right know if i should go for a 3" single exit (aam or jic)
i know the 4.08 final drive is really the biggest bang for the buck from what i hear..so im preparing for that.
i was planning on getting the stillen gen 3 ultra longtube intakes next..but would it be necessary? i hear alot of people saying go for the injens/k&n drop-ins/ or even just keep it stock. ive read somewhere a few people gaining 14+ with the stillens / 8+ with the injens
n then finish it off with the osiris tune

balblabla there is so much **** n debates for the hr..makes it so complicating somtimes!

what would be your recommendations as far as basic boltons?

sorry if this seems kinda noob. i am still learning! and would love to learn more!

thanks !!

 

I just bumped two or three threads.

What was your baseline?

So you don't have a tune?

 

Maybe this thread will help you a little.. Just ran into it earlier today

https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/5081...ity-check.html

 

oh okay will check those out!

i never did a baseline dyno. just the one i posted and no tune

 

Will you screwed yourself alittle from knowing your true gains. Either way your car seem to be right where it should be. Alot of people don't go after 300whp NA because of how loud/uncomfortable the Z becomes when doing so. You shouldn't have to go single to get the extra power. I adivse saving for a uprev tune along with some intakes.

 

save your money and FI your HR!

or... you can always find a local dyno that read high as fukc! xD

some dude in my area..
https://my350z.com/forum/northern-ca...9-zcg-ftw.html

 

Hmm..ok thanks king! Btw how's the aam? drone pretty bad on freeways?

And wow..I looked through every page..I did hear about other dynos reading higher and what not..I really do not have the funds for fi..I wish they had a single turbo for the HR

 

your exhaust will be fine

a single will yield a different sound, different look, and obviously increased expense since you already have an exhaust on the car - it will not yield more power

same goes for the intake

your car needs a tune - beyond that, you would then need to look into a cam/header combo for further power increases, coupled with another tune to accomodate them

the gears would be a very nice mod to do for the HR to increase overall engine response and effective torque at the wheels. No tuning required, but its about a 4-5 hour install for a competant shop

 

There are several of us here with 300 whp now. You need to basically install every bolt-on in order to do it.

My list of mods for 300 whp are:

Stillen Headers ( some porting )
Crawford HFC's
HKS Hi-power True dual exhaust
Injen CAi's
Up-Rev dyno tuned

Gears & Diff are a Very nice addition!!! Also a lightened flywheel would allow the engine to rev faster.

I am always searching NA builds for results on an HR stroker build. 3.8L-4.1L with or without cams. This is tempting for me, only because it seems as tho there is no one here who has done it! I'll be talking to a builder next week. Then will decide if it's really worth it to me, or to say F' it and boost the car.

Good Luck

Zim

 

keep in mind too that 300 whp on one dyno can be vastly different than 300whp on another - so don't look to others as your yardstick. Since you don't have a raw baseline, unmodded, to compare to, your best bet will be to stick with this dyno to evaluate any future mods

remember, 300 whp on a dyno doesn't mean you have an actual 300 whp. The net gains from previous runs to current runs are what you're ultimately measuring (the gain is important, not the raw #)

if you're looking for a comparison, you can use other Z's run on that dyno, and that will give you an idea of where you stack up as well

 

+1 on what Adam said..
as a newb ( 80 posts etc) youshould make sure to make friends w Adam, King, and Lakeside for sure.. they are old school and know thier sh#t for sure.

Exhaust doesnt net you hardly a thing, nor does an intake really, but for the purpose of sounds and style, they are quite fun and worth it IMO and that of most others.

3" exhaust is too big unless its a sinlge you were talking about.. im too lazy to scroll up and re read.
Im all NA, kintex V PLenum ( 2 years in AZ temps, no cracks) JWT pop, lwfw and clutch, resd IMR test pipes and XO2 hks knock off.
Its very loud on WOT, like far more than youd expect.. and all the parts did was make my car lose tons of power and drive like complete #ss.

UNTIL. i tuned the ECU, including timing and AFR.
Wow.. unbelieveable. Truly. You should expect more than " that little extra" by doing a tune and reflash w a NA car.. it is literally the "ON switch" to every breathing mod that has been leaning the crap out of your car's Air fuel ratio in anything but a linear fashion w out it.
It was the coolest thing ever to be sitting in my slow sauce car idling in a parking lot, running thru a few menus, watching my idle increase a touch, reflash completed, and then disconnecting it and driving away in an IMMEDIATLEY different car.. torque is unreal.. all butt dyno numbers of course.. thats how i roll.
A FULL rpm by rpm tune will do even better than that, and is really what you wana shoot for.. Osiris should work very well for you.

SO just saying, buy all the parts, but dont expect the car to put out until the moment the tune is done. Youl be surprised, then if you need some more power on tap, a good and "safe" UTEC and NOs set up for WOT only would be around 2 grand for "100 hp" ( its almost all torque actually).

IMO.. a better idea for a DD than FI since youll barely ever use the juice and its a 5th of the price (TCI), but thats just my take.

Hope it helps, or maybe gives you some ideas or a better idea what to expect.

Good luck man! (BTW RE gears are next for me too, maybe not all the way to the 4.0s tho)

 

It's all trial and error! I don't mind helping other's benefit from my mistakes! I'd rather save people time and money.. I would hope other member's here would do the same for me.

+1 on using the same dyno. I use the same dyno after all my performance upgrades. Even if it is 4 hrs away! lol I only experiment with other dyno's just to see what they will read now that I am semi content with my car.

Buddy has the bug! It's only more, More & MORE! From here on out!

Get all your Bolt-ons finished and find a quality UpRev dealer to dyno tune it for you.

 

wow..i honestly thought i'd get some b*tching for this thread but thanks guys you guys are genuinely awesome!!

thank you guys for your input so far.
so do you guys think that there would be relatively similar gains from an injen & stillen? and if anything, pretty minimal?

i am pretty bummed that i don't have a baseline # to start with..

the jwt clutch&flywheel are also on my list!

adam, would a cam/header combo really be necessary to hit the 300whp mark? i know putting on headers for this car is a ****ing hassle. due to my 80+ hours spent at work i dont even know if i would have time for that since i do daily drive m car. but of course, i know i shouldn't be looking for an easy way out

bmccann101, if what you say is true..i can't wait til i do a tune..!!!!

but yeah i guess, like lakeside said, it is all trial & error..i did start off the wrong way when i first got the car..such as doing a straight pipe set up the day after i got the car ..buying a bunch of cosmetic bs i ended up selling etc..now i dont wanna **** anything up and do my **** right!!!

but damn, that stroker build sounds interesting...very..

thank you guys again .. and if there is anything else i should know, keep it coming!!!!

 

I only have experience with Nismo and Injen CAI's. But from what I have read, Injen's fitment is superior to Stillen's. From what I have seen from pics on the forum, i have to AGREE!

We removed my headers still bolted to the stock cats when we installed my exhaust. It wasn't that bad. Only error on my part Was I didn't wrap them! So I maybe doing that job again soon. : /

Cam's are a costly install. The installer has to remove the engine to do so! So I would recommend doing it while your installing your clutch and flywheel. Mise well do it all in one shot right?..

 

Read my thread to compare the two available cold air intakes for the HR:

https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/5202...e-intakes.html

These are the only two options you should consider if you are shooting for power, but are one of the last N/A mods you should actually do, as intakes will yield the least amount of power (stock intake system is awesome from the factory). If you just want looks/sound, find the cheapest short-ram system. Best bang for your buck would be K&N drop in filters.

Through my N/A modding experiences on the Z, I have learned that bolt-on's are for looks/sound/the experience first, with the added bonus of a little power as well. Sure if you slap enough of these mods together and get a tune to make them all work together you will make a dent on the power meter, but you had better be financially well off to justify the $/power ratio. In the modding world, I would consider myself poor, so I should have saved for boost from the get go and not fussed with N/A mods. Of course, I love messing with the car, so I look at it as a worthwhile adventure.

If raw power (that you can significantly feel) is your goal, you stop right now and save for forced induction.

 

Weren't the Gen 3s from Stillen made for the 370z but said they would work. If I remember right you have to do a bit of dremmeling to the throttle body? I have the injens and that was not required.

 

Wow. Nismo great thread. And I believe the gen3 is available for the 350 as well...I was about to buy it at one point.

Moonlight, how are the injens for you? Notice any gains? Or do you have dyno numbers?

 

this entire post is what EVERYONE needs to realize when comparing hp numbers

Cant see 300whp esp with HFCs and nothing internal done. Thats a hard pill to swallow.

 

Mm...

 

I have always had the money to boost my Nismo. For me, sure it was good experience going the NA route. I also wanted to hold onto my Warranty just incase. It's easy enough to remove bolt-ons. I don't regret it, if I TT my car I have the true dual exhaust & UpRev software already. If I SC my car, I have the exhaust, headers and tuning software.

I use to be so set on finishing my car & going TT but priorities change. Lately it's on the back burner. It will eventually happen, when who knows! Whenever I get around to it. I am sure many members here share my view.

It's still alot cheaper to do a full bolt-on setup with tune then to TT a car with supporting mods! I figure that build to be around 12K. In this economy, I would rather keep those funds in savings.

Bolt-on NA builds are cheap in comparison to FI