Really for someone like me I can install headers and exhaust. Have intakes already and an aftermarket clutch I installed. Just need someone to help me install the cams and springs. I even have a friend who will tune it for free. So it's a lot less money in my case.

 

where in fl are you? if youre local and i have some time i can help with the cam install . im in tampa btw

 

Yeah as for installing parts i never let anyone do things on my car, the only thing i had a shop do was set the final drive gear after i took everything apart and brought it to them, ive never done that before nor do i wanna learn lol. $150 was not bad at all considering how much people pay to get their gears installed.

 

I didn't add labor because it is different for everyones skill set... Bolt-ons most people can install themselves, cams is a little bit harder and time consuming without proper tools...

Headers, without having custom ones made no one really makes one that works well since Header design is determined from cam profile and head flow characteristics, the LTHs that are on the market are designed to mate up to the stock location of the cat flange to the Y-pipe, and they are WAY to long! even 700ci engines don't have primarys that long, diameter is what is important and the collector is secondary of importance (sounds right...) SFR headers use a Burns Stainless collector (the best!!!) and are available in 1 5/8 and 1 3/4 primaries, it is IMO the best (I am not at all afiliated with SFR) header, other than a custom one

Intake, If you are comparing NISMO intake to K&N drop in filters then you need not apply to the NA world

Clutch, I am a JWT fan so $800 will do you good... I have drivin the carbonetic triple and love it!!! but $3200 is a bit much for a clutch

exhaust, Stillen is crap! they haven't made anything good (except for custom stuff they do a pretty good job on) since the Z32 days... there also wasn't any competition

I am now back on the SR20 bus, My NA SR20 made nearly 180whp (that is alot for 2liters) now my blue bird engine is near 280whp and I hate it! yes it is faster in a straight line, but since I go to palamar Mt all the time, the response and noise it used to make is not there! So I am going back to NA to make 220WHP NA!!! Yup 2.2L stroked Sentra!!!

 

Damn it johnwigs I was just about to buy the PPE headers and now I'm second guessing myself after looking at the SFR ones . anyone on here have them? I

 

The gains seen from the PPE headers is from removing the cats... maybe a 5hp gain is actually from the header... If you want "long-tube headers" at least the PPEs quality looks pretty good and have an expansion chamber in after the collector, which is good

 

I guess it's that "no stone left unturned"　...

Also the exhaust note is pure sex, too raw for some...

As stated above I've been telling folks test pipes first then if you want more even though it's minimal LTHs!

 

gtm makes some good n/a motors also built blocks too but if u want a built n/a thats alot of money lol

 

so would you say that stillen shorties coupled with test pipes produce the same gain as going longtube headers?

 

Maybe a DE not on an HR

 

90% sure im ordering mine probably this weekend . johnwigs got me second guessing them though, the SFR ones seem very nice i just wanna see some results on an HR

 

Everytime someone mentions STILLIN I vomit in my mouth... I have no idea why people are still buying Stealin's crap... good marketing I guess?
My suggestion on the Long tube option is to make sure you have a quality exhaust behind it that has an "X" pipe or combined chamber... if you leave it true dual, you just sound like an angry chewbacca!!!

 

What about a nismo s-tune with the motordyne ypipe? So basically a single exhaust

 

The LTH available aren't too long, if they are too long, they are much closer to the right length than any set of shorty headers, regardless of whatever brand expensive collector you put on it. All data out there converges on a primary length of ~30in, a little less for higher rpm and a little more for less rpm. The calculations for the shortest designs point at 24-26in, and that's for something around 7000rpm.

1 5/8 might be ok for the stock 238 cam on the DE, but 1 3/4 is pretty standard. The 248 cam on the RevUp and HR I'd say 1 3/4 is the minimum size, with a lean towards 1 7/8.

 

I will make sure to let the Nismo engineers know that they have been designing headers for their race cars in the Continental Tire Grand-Am incorrectly, and I have E-mailed Burns stainless to redesign their collectors...

 

Grand Am limits the cam sizes on the 350Z.

 

370z with 3.7 HR is what is raced in the GS class (there also is an altima coupe, but I don't do engines for that team so they are slow), there is no restrictions other than using "factory" components (Cams are a NISMO N10 prototype), and Bosch control pieces, the car has not finished consistantly high enough to start restricting the car, most of the funding has been put into the Australian V8 Supercar series, that NISSAN has dumped $millions! and team budgets here for Grand Am CTSCC, are much smaller, and engines costing $25,000 for long blocks, it gets expensive!

 

K&N and short ram type intakes gain = 0. Unless you are dumb and blind and missed the countless dynos of them, just ignore anyone who states otherwise.

 

Requesting HP figures for mods is very inconsistent. It all depends on the Dyno used. My Z dynos 285rwhp on a Mustang dyno @ 100F+ temps. I could easily result in 300-310rwhp at a different tuner shop that has a Dynojet in the same conditions. Also if I were to dyno at say 50F temps, I may run higher numbers as well, same with at different elevation levels.

All you need to know for a point of reference is the HR Z with full boltons will run relatively more power than a DE/RevUp in comparison IF you dynoed both on the same machine @ the same conditions.

 

I think the best way to judge how much power a Z is putting down or how well the driver is making use of it is by looking at the Trap speed in the 1/4 mile.